adjusted rod out to 50mm from 49.5mm(half turn leaner) so see how it goes in the am when I go riding! didn't get around to replacing plug though. will report back with results.
bike ran sweet today, no plug fouling(even with old plug in it) & felt pretty crisp. plug was still black but dry(ish). sounded & felt like it was gonna foul on start up but jus revved it up a bit for warm up & was sweet. think it was some of the crap on the plug burnin off! may try a 1/4-1/2 turn leaner(50.5mm) again when I can be arsed on a side note I pancaked the oem pipe finally when I launched her hard at a rock ledge/step up on a snotty hill & binned it. still ran ok for rest of day but its flattened a bit, creased near header section & dinged nicely. dented bottom of LHS rad too-was a good effort I thought. gnarly time
Hey, that's great news Had my 3rd ride @ 50.5mm and cold start is 1-2 kicks consistently which makes me wanna go start it right now! rather than dread getting the cold beast to fire up.
Smashed my gnarly up on a rally on sight lap lol they do dent but not as easy to total as oem, ya sortta got to mean it
Installed a Lectron on my 1992 WR500 big bore 2 stroke Yamaha 2 days ago. Rode 65 miles at a A pace with some fast guys yesterday. Flat freaking LOVED it and it transformed the bike. Super smooth endless linear power everywhere. 5 mpg better, was able to ride the bike in 2nd position behind a very fast A class dude and not have him gap me much. Felt hero on that old beast. Carb transformed the beast from a bike that hunted all over idle wise making it a handful down hill and lame throttle response off the bottom making it a hand full in transition from off to on throttle to a perfect responsive liquid HP machine. Motor went from feeling old and vintage to modern and responsive. Had a fantastic day on the beast yesterday.
Shawbagga did your throttle not hang when she was so lean? What were the symptoms? Have put around 500miles on my 360 the past month commuting to work lectron and safari tank ment only 3 refills. But have noticed a slight pulse almost like a rich blubber when shutting throttle like the electric power delivery but when i close throttle still rolling around 50mph bummm bummdumbum just started doing it before it was spot on, i may be rich as im running 33:1 up from 50:1 what you guys think?
main symptom was the rear wheel locking up at 60kph! if you talking bout the 165 episode mate then it was a case of running late, chucked gear on, kicked bike in guts & rode. felt flat & down on power(in hindsight 2 pretty bloody good reasons to stop...ahh well know next time). seemed fine in garage, idle didn't hang or carry on but not the best idea to tune to idle with these carbs it would seem. I just went beserk with a whole turn leaner when a 1/4-1/2 MAX woulda been heaps. anyway its back the full turn richer on rod(where it was) & went 1/4 turn richer on PJ for extra fuel/air/revs itll use as a 125. will get 165 piston again after I use the 125 slug up. as far as 300 goes mate im still a fair bit rich going off plug. gonna try 1/4-1/2 turn leaner on rod again as its at 50mm & reckon im safe to 50.5mm ez. its much much better & im being fairly fussy(plus im a fiddler ) but theres a slight hesitation just before it gets on the pipe. may be PV related but doubt it think its just getting too much juice. nice to be able to come up to big logs/rocks etc after low speed riding, not have to 'clean' it out & know itll respond without fear of goin over bars or smashing chest into them! mikuni was a bandit for a bog right at that exact time damn man 800 km on 3 tanks that's some cheap & dare I say fun commuting! reckon next new bike I buy ill leave all the ADR crap on for a few hundred km to just be able to cruise around my suburb straight outta my garage. if nothing else just to burn some 2T. I know itll escalate into a 'im just gonna check out this dirt road' type scenario though
I have discovered that asmuch as i love the bike it hates being stuck in traffic so i do my best to stay ahead of the que. Not bad fun but not too many woods to blow off the steam on the way too work, way back... Now thats fun everyones in cars driving home im in the woods smoking the few lanes and trails we have locally.
so have a gnarly on order(from using oem pipe) for 300 will I need to go richer on PJ &/or rod? rod currently at 50mm & was gonna go leaner out to 50.25-50.5mm(1/4-1/2 leaner), should I just leave as is & install gnarly & see how it runs? generally speaking you go richer for aftermarket exhausts correct? PJ at 3/4 from seated(slightly rich for my conditions) & running cut down Q stealth muffler(shortened & no SA). thoughts/opinions?
I didnt adjust my lectron when i installed new reeds or the gnarly if anything it only effected the top end, so richend up the power jet.
i would run it. then try to feed it some more fuel via the pj...if you encounter fourstroking you can dial it back a bit. its quick and easy so why not. that how i jet tho, i go rich then back it off. i do not try to see how lean i can get it. i certainly wouldnt go leaner before you get the pipe on. my 360 had the stock double wall pipe with half the volume of the pipe it has now so it required more fuel on the rod and pj..some bikes are jetted leaner with a pipe so its hard to tell.
ok sweet ill run it as is. still bit rich on rod I think so new pipe may lean it out a fraction anyway. went 1/4 turn richer on PJ yday in anticipation of new pipe plus was riding some high speed sand sections in pines yday too! cheers boys
can i ask for thoughts and opinions? 06 wr250, fresh (~10 hours) cyl and piston, full fmf exhaust, hi-test pump gas. cant get it to idle 100%. spent quite awhile with it today, as of now it runs awesome when its warmed up, its perfect. except for the idle. it will fall down to an idle, then gradually lower until it konks out (over the course of probably 30 seconds). the rod is set at 51.75mm out (was 52, then i cranked it in 1/4 turn) and like i said its great (bogs pretty bad stone-cold but once theres some temp in it all smiles). if i go any leaner it idles great, but has a dead spot right off idle (first 1/4 of throttle), then runs great all throughout. any richer the idle becomes non-existant, throttle becomes a little laggy, etc. PJ is 1.25 out, seems perfect up top. to throw in another variable, its probably rich on oil, not sure of the ratio but i was running 30:1 for break-in, and only the last two fillups have been my normal 44:1... probably 2 gallons total. as of now im going to run it as is and see how it goes, re-fill 44:1 when the time comes.
I just went thru similar weirdness, so going to ask have you checked for air leaks? I thought mine was tuned really close, but then it got worse no matter how I adjusted it. Didn't seem lean though, actually plug was rich looking and spooge increased Finally I pulled the carb off and noticed a 1 inch crack on the inside corner of the intake boot. When I removed it I saw the rubber inside was separated from the metal base too. The replacement I got from Bill's seems to be much better quality. Also old news, but check the seal on both sides of the reed block (maybe check your reeds while you're in there). Paper gaskets or some sealant is highly recommended. The other obvious thing I've now noticed with mine is when it's right it starts basically 1 kick cold or warm and even in gear warm. Even a little rich, but too rich and it kicks (hard!), a little lean and it gets harder to start. When the air leak developed starting was erratic. Currently rod is @ 51mm, PJ @ 1 1/8, idle screw @ 3/4 which is a little high to compensate for some Rekluse drag. The cleanest burning oil for me so far is Klotz Interceptor, 32:1 with 93 octane, 100% gas. I was using an Iridium plug, but it was always black and even wet sometimes. Stock plugs work fine and turn a nice nut brown color now.
i havent checked for air leaks (i like the spraying starting fluid around and listen for an rpm increase method) i did just have it all apart for the new top end & tranny so new reed gaskets and i inspected the boot then, but hey, weirder things have happened! thanks
Does it start easily? Now that I know mine can start 1 kick, I know something's wrong if it doesn't. Not sure what else could be wrong with the Lectron, pretty fool proof. Your rod sounds lean to me, but setup varies quite a bit. I did notice a little seepage around the float bowl and tightened the screw just a little. Not sure that would cause any issues though. If you've had it for awhile maybe it's time for some cleaner and compressed air. See any junk in the bowl?
as a side note steve, if you are noticing leakage around your bowl you likely need the updated bowl. mine was getting a good gap in between the screws, watch for this..i got a new one and its been perfect. it was enough to let in water when i washed it, using only a garden hose. i had never adjusted the screws when i saw this, but i checked them and they were properly torqued..
Post pic of updated float bowl please, mine bows like the picture above but not had any leaking issues yet. Cheers
updated bowl looks identical, its just made a hair different to correct issue. i believe the issue had something to do the groove the oring sat in. mine never really leaked much out, but let water in. at least it was easy to see. amazingly every time i had water in it, the bike would digest it no problem like it was never there. mine had a gap all 4 sides. i was told by lectron you can continue to run the warped bowl by installing one of their old style flat gaskets they sell, or updating to the new style bowl and just using the oring.
