thanks for the reply I'm using pump gas 95/97 oct, 60:1,fuel line full and transparent float bowl sitting halfway across "level line" as it should be.no in line filter and took the fuel line off tank and fuel running out of tap freely,using std fuel tank breather in tank cap.this has only started since I fitted the lectron as I said. I guess where it's set should be irrelevent as it's supossed to compensate for altitude,temp and humidity,it dies likei've pressed the kill switch,so i wondered about that although it has never done it prior to fitting the Lectron,but it's the was it stutters back to life then clears that makes it a fuel issue,I wondered if it had heat seized? should I run 50:1?
Yup just making sure, well fluffy suggests your rich but by your own statement it ran better with the rod shortened until it just cut out all together. I take it you haven't foweld the plug by how you got it started again. Now I'm not really sure how tune one of these as I've not touched it in 2 years. I would keep going richer seeing as that's what got you better results, when it bogs down under throttle or hesitated before it pulls then lean it up again. It's much the same as a normal carb. Check for air leaks and make sure all is seated and clean. I also found the choke really hard to push down until it had been used a fair bit. Sorry I can't be more help. I would also change spark plug cap as if it's suppressed that could be breaking down. I know it's unlikely but coincidence's do happen.
Strange, def check and double check for air leaks. 2-3xl is lean on top and richer on bottom than what most are running. And you say you've also gone richer on the rod which sounds to me like compensating for an air leak (lean). Also check for electrical issues. Intermittent stalls could be faulty wiring or stator In general always tended to tune 2 stroke a little lean on the bottom and little rich on top. For example, on my 165 I have 3-1xl rod (which I think is a little too lean, btw) and on the 300 I have 3-2m rod which was stock from Lectron/Motosportz and is a little richer than 3-1xl. With Huskys it seems each possibly needs some fine tuning, there's not 1 rod that works for all on certain bikes. I suggest getting some other rods (3-1xl, 3-2xl, maybe 3-2m) and experimenting. The rod adjusting tool is worth it if you're doing much tuning. Both David and Kevin at Lectron have always been very responsive and helpful: david@lectronfuelsystems.com, kevin@lectronfuelsystems.com
Sorry you might have miss read. It was running fine but as it got to temperature it started hunting, then went fluffy and stopped, it started eventually and seemed to be clearing itself then ran without stopping but kept hunting, I wound the needle in (clockwise) making it richer till it stuttered then went back 1/4, it ran really well until it just died and restarted in the same manner as the first time it died gradually coaxing it to start, and I could roll the throttle without it dying again.
hunting means a lean condition. could be a vacuum leak in intake or crank seal getting worse when engine gets to temp. have you ever done a compression test on the motor to verify its health? please keep in mind, all carbs need adjustment or tuning. lectrons are easy to tune with however. generally you want to go rich until you encounter fourstroking, then back off until running cleanly.
short update. the motor ran perfectly befoe the Lectron was fitted with 55 hours of greenlaning and low level racing I checked everything very carefully before I removed the lectron off the bike to inspect that when the motor died it felt like it had run out of fuel and the starter motor cranked as soon as I hit the button,it felt like the bike was restaring when you switch the fuel cock over to reserve. Lectron removed and float bowl off and I fond 2 pieces of irregular shaped rubber/plastic about 2x2mm each? in a new carb? i think these were circulating in the float bowl and getting sucked onto the hole where the fuel is draw further into he carb,blocking it,when the engine died the vacume stopped and the plasic bit dropped away from the draw point,allowing the engine to re start. real close inspection of the body of the carb and I'm wondering if it had been previously purchased and returned,there are a few marks on it. who knows?i will test today to see if that issue has now stopped
That's is very odd but pleased you found something. Fingers crossed that's solved that as these carbs are really easy to live with
Had one that was driving me nuts as it kept going really lean and that turned out to be a small piece of clear plastic wedged in the hole that that the rod rides in, The piece of plastic looked to be the same material as the float bowl, Had that carb apart 10 times or more till I found that bloody thing, Bike runs faultlessly to this day once sorted out and the guy is more than happy with the results. Think there is a comment or two on here about it when we had the problem
The only issue I've had with Lectrons that I know of was with the 300. It had a stutter in the low to mid transition I couldn't get rid of. Then was prepping for a ride and noticed the PJ hose was loose. Looked closer and the nipple was broken off. Can't imagine how it happened. Called 'em, sent the carb, they fixed it and rebuilt it with the newer float bowl. Now the 300 is super smooth and runs very clean. I did have to pay for the repair and rebuild, the carb was over a year old, but it was fairly cheap and they sold me extra rods at 1/2 price
This evening I switched rods in the 165. Went from 3-1xl to 3-2m (ms-3 was stock) so steadily richer. Much better now. I had the 3-1xl @ 48mm and it was still a little lean on the bottom, but loading up a little in the mid, ripped on top and plug was a little dark. Set the new rod to @ 49mm (stock) but was rich from idle thru the bottom. 1/2 turn lean and much better, but maybe a little too lean on the bottom. It was getting dark so will go 1/4 rich next chance I get. It was almost good enough and I could have done as some have said and just rode it, but every once in a while the stutter and loading up would mess me up. That motivates me to tinker and fine tune. Really happy it can get even better
I posted some of this email back a couple of pages: Correct. Then, to be a little more confusing, we have a new 2-3XL metering rod that we use for 250cc-350cc two stroke dirt bikes. It is even richer low throttle than the 3-2XL , but slightly leaner in high throttle positions. David Dunne Vice President Lectron Go Farther, Faster! 830.331.2235 37535 IH 10 West Unit D Boerne, TX 78006 www.lectronfuelsystems.com -----Original Message----- From: steven Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 4:55 PM To: David Dunne Subject: Re: Lectron information Thanks again. So 3-2xl is next richer after 3-2m? On 05/02/2016 05:39 PM, David Dunne wrote: It is the same rod - the MS-3 we produced for a dealer in the 2013-2014 timeframe. The 3-1M is the same rod. David Dunne -----Original Message----- From: steven Sent: Monday, May 02, 2016 4:34 PM To: David Dunne Subject: Re: Lectron information Hi David, Thanks for the reply and pardon my confusion. Is the 3-1M the same as MS-3? If not, how does it compare? Regards, Steven On 05/02/2016 11:07 AM, David Dunne wrote: You are welcome Steven - Leanest to richest 3-1M 3-1XL 3-2M All of these rods provide the same fuel at WOT. They are progressively richer on the low throttle positions from 3-1M to 3-2M. Thanks for being our customer David Dunne Vice President Lectron Go Farther, Faster!
Short answer: Leanest to richest 3-1M (MS-3) 3-1XL 3-2M 3-2XL 2-3XL (new rod for 250/300 2t) My 3hunny has 3-2m still and I think I'm going 3-1xl and see if it starts easier, even though I have 2-3xl at Lectron's suggestion.
Ahh rite so u goin leaner n they suggestin go richer. Ahh 3-2m seems ok to me! I'm a middle of the road type of fella
So ms-3 is 3-1m correct(leanest). I was Runin that rod in 300 then went to 3-2m(1 step richer on bottom) I think
Edited my post. Yes ms-3 is 3-1m, 3-2m is 2 steps richer than 3-1m How many shorties? Isn't it @ noon there?
Yep lunchtime mate! Shorties? Isn't the 'm' rods the same as xl jus custom grind?(or is it custom grind leaner?)? Sorry mate jus gettin me head around this last question I promise Makes sense I spose little bikes want less on bottom n heàps on top n opposite for bigger bores. FYI I went to a mx/ride park last week on 165 n did 154km of mx tracks. Yep was shattered! Bout 4.5-5 hours engine time. Was great workout n fitness plus awesome fun. Anyway for most part it was WFO(flowing tracks n sum longish straights top of 6th 100kph) in 2/3/4 gears n got 91km before reserve!!! Not bad used to only get 95-100 with reserve on flowing open trails with mikuni. Didn't ride til reserve was dry(didn't wanna have to push back to ute for fuel). Ms3 rod at 48(ish)mm with PJ at 3/4 from seated. No spooge with that type of riding! Tried PJ at 5/8 but didn't notice any difference n wanted to be safe.
haha...shorties! It was late here, I was thinking stubby but typing shorty. All I know is what I've learned here and in those emails. I think basically you're right, XL rods with custom grind according to Kelly/Walt?/Motosportz design. I just consider 'em diff rods in the scheme of tuning options now that I've got them sorted in my little brain. Basically the M rods are 1/2 step leaner and 1/2 richer than 3-1xl. Not sure why Lectron is recommending 2-3xl for 300, maybe for others, but I don't think mine will like that. I'm looking for an mx track around here like you describe. Should be fun, flowing, fast and longer, not SX like.
Yep pay ya $50, sign ya life away then go ride groomed safe tracks as long as ya can. Big jumps n doubles/triples make a bit of wee come out of me when I see em. Tabletops where it's at! Good wen got no one to trail ride with(injuries/work/preggers missus!). They're getting more prevalent down here which is good. Still can't beat quality single trails thru the bush tho! Thanks for helping me get my melon around this
I just got done helping a friend with a Lectron on a 2001 Honda CR250 R. He got the newest rod recommended I think it was the 2-3xl. The bike had a fresh top end but we couldn't get it to run good everywhere and had trouble with the idle. He was getting frustrated with the Lectron but I knew what it was capable of so I started digging for answers. We did a leakdown and it was good but a compression test showed only 175 psi so I checked the squish and it was .065". I sent the head off to http://www.maxrpms.com/ and had the squish set for race fuel. Now it has 225psi cranking compression and runs fantastic everywhere, it's a tractor down low just like my Husky WR250 and rips on the pipe just like you would expect from a MX bike. It idles for days and will start one kick in gear with the clutch half way in and start creeping away. I have always had to run my Husky on race fuel unless I de-tuned it by setting it rich. I have no idea why anyone would want to set a high performance bike up for poor quality pump gas, they are giving up a bunch of performance. Also 1/4 turn makes a big difference on his bike especially when you get it close, if you go an extra 1/4 turn rich from the best setting the bike gets really difficult to ride in the technical tight stuff.
