125-200cc LECTRON....FOR SALE

If you now have a 38mm Lectron, why not tune it and race it? An entry fee is a lot less then dyno time and the bottom line is winning races anyway. If you don't want to do that then compare lap times with a stop watch.

cant imagine a 125 not absolutely ripping with a 38. 38 is enough to keep a 250 singing

When I fitted a 38mm Lectron to my mate Trigs already very crisply jetted with a 38mm PWK 125 the thing came to life !! Went from being a really good for a 125 to the best 125 I have ever sat my old fat ass on, Pulls way better from zero to full tilt and gained so much more on top he actually came back babbling like a demented idiot on how much top end ect it had gained (video evidence to prove this).
Will add the bike is fitted with a dep pipe from a sm/wre that had lost the bike a bit right at the top but gained so much everywhere else it was worth the trade off, Did have to slightly grind a MS3 rod slightly richer in the middle to wfo portion to cure a bit of detonation problems and to keep a good idle at the same time, Had to do this on my 144 and 165 also but this is due to our UK fuel.
When riding my 165 and trying to hang with this 125 I have to work real hard to stay with it as it really flys.
Other mods - Transfer ports matched to the crank cases and the exhaust port polished to a mirror finish but no port heights ect touched in anyway.
Power valve spring was changed to a lighter item but with a pretty stiff inner item added that also gave more off the bottom and a real smooth progresive pull all the way to the top till it finally way up high signs off.
Definatly the best 125 I have ridden and the same thoughts are echoed from all the test pilots that have ridden the bike, Most say that its not really a 125 and must be a 144 or even a 165, And once again - Bike was good before the Lecton and absolutly BRILLIANT after the Lectron.

It would be a shame for anyone else to share my experience when there are obviously such great gains to be made with the Lectron. Yes, I did sell my brand new 38mm to a list member in order to recoup some of my cost as opposed to attempting to sell a used Lectron and lose even more of my investment.

But since you have access to a wealth of Lectrons, perhaps you could send me one of your 38mm and I could install it on the same bike and give it a go - if it sings/screams, I would gladly purchase a brand new 38mm. Better yet, I would be willing to install the 38mm, take it to the same Lectron Dyno tuner, and publish the results replete with settings. Heck, I will even run the Mikuni 38mm and then everyone on the list would have access to settings and scores of a Mikuni, Lectron 36mm, and Lectron 38mm. I am sure the forum would appreciate having a metric-based summary to accompany the "seat of the pants" reviews. Cafe Husky has been such a wonderful source of information for me, the cost of a day in the Dyno room would be my gift to the forum - Merry Christmas.

Considering many of us are approaching the end of the riding season, i would open the offer up to anyone running a 38mm - pull your Lectron and send it to me and I will pay for the Dyno. Selfishly, this would be a great service to me as well because as I noted, I am still looking for a HP gain and if the 38mm is the answer, then I am in!

No horse in this race but I'm just curious....

If your kid is racing the open class against 450's, why isn't it a 144? 2012's came with them. Then for less than the price of a carb, you could have Pro Circuit port it and mod the head (like I did). It gains from bottom to top and is an absolute 40+ hp rocketship. Even having the 125 modded, would out-gain any carb change. I don't quite understand the carb mania that goes on with these bikes, going from the excellent TMXX, to a PWK, to a Lectron blah blah. The laws of physics and air density don't change from carb to carb. I do get that partial-throttle response and power , as well as measurably better mileage, is the main draw. If you were looking for peak power why did you throttle it's neck and not go straight to a 38?

Not trying to be a knob but you still seem fascinated with changing the carb when that's the last thing I'd do....

EDIT: Sorry I was going off the above info of 2012 125.... Read back where you originally said it's a CR144 that has been ported. OOOOOOPS!! Cary on!

Were you guys dynoing through a knobby? Can't understand why your numbers are so low..... Dynos vary but that's pretty weak.... Dynojet dyno? (what pretty much all quoted magazine numers are from, through a STREET tire). When did you peak at the reeds last? Mine eats them.

i was kinda wondering about dynotime with a knobby.

I have tried over the past couple of evenings to load a video of this 125 in action but for some strange reason I cannot get the slightess little bit of footage to upload to youtube just to show just how hard this bike runs so may have to try another computer!!
Every bike I have tried a Lectron on be it a KTM GasGas Or what ever all the bikes have gained more on top, Yes this is all done by the good old fashioned butt dyno but its been pretty reliable over the years so why change
I actually feel your pain after all the ranting and raving about the Lectrons and would love to be the one that could offer some good solid advise as to why you did not get the same results as most others have but I personaly have not a single clue as to why and find it very strange, I will never go back from useing the Lectron as I love the benifits and after riding a 144 Husky still fitted with the stock Mikuni a week or so back I was left in a state of shock with just how poorly the thing ran - Rich off the bottom - lean in the middle - but full chat all was good, Trigs 125 would of walked away from it with ease at any given revs untill right at the upper limits when the larger dissplacment may of had a tiny tiny bit more go.
Lectrons are not totaly faultless and can still suffer from a few normal type carb problems as Trig suffered a bit of grime in the needle valve the other week causing the thing to go into a bad case of full on blubber mode right at the wrong times and was running real rich till it eventually fouled a plug but was fixed in no time just to then suddenly go so lean it wouldnt run above half throttle as a rather large lump of what looked like fuel tank material got lodged between the metering rod and the carb body and that took forever to suss out after pulling the carb from the bike many many times untill the little blighter was found lurking in there but is now back to its good old reliable self .

I don't have a problem with some feedback about power delivery not being to your liking - I know Kelly has said that it smooths out the power and its not to everyones tastes

You also chose a 36mm carb for some strange reason .
You could have saved some time and $ by setting up the 36mm Lectron yourself and testing it prior to dyno - if that was even necessary.
I also cant understand why you didn't throw the 38mm on the bike and test it out and set it up off the dyno so it was running at its best .
Run lap times to show difference. I think you were lucky they were good enough to swap it over

Sometimes more power in the lower range and less horsepower will work better in reality . eg 165 in single track will beat the 125/144 but may not have more hp

For more power - I agree on the comments about getting head mods and ports done on a 144 for more power - or go for a 139 which are supposedly even better - lighter piston and more overrev.
Carb less significant if jetted correctly
I swapped between a 38 and modded 39mm Mikuni and hard to tell difference. Also between standard needle/slide and RM needle/slide on 39mm carb . Rm needle helps to richen down low to help punch and reduces detonation - original needle seemed to have more up top .

Id also offer to get my bike dynoed if I could get a 38mm Lectron to compare it to the modded TMX .
There is a dyno just down the road .
Anyone in Oz have one theyd lend me??

Answers to inquiries:

Rockdancer: Bought the 36mm on Kelly's recommendation.

MotoMarc36: Dynojet dyno, flat track tire. Interesting note on the reeds - checked them in Spring, probably a good idea to re-visit.

Kelly: FYI, I am not trying to be difficult - only trying to contribute to the usefulness of the list. None of my comments are meant to be deragatory to your service and I hope you are not construing my comments in a negative manner as I am only interested in contributing to the value of the list. My primary goal of the thread was to get the most possible value out of the Lectron.

I have followed this thread from the get go and understand where you are coming from and understand your interest in dyno numbers. I really think that the type of power that the rider (your son) likes and can win with is all that matters
Without raising "feathers" here let me just say that you and your sons demands vary considerably from the demands of a MXer, Desert or Enduro racer. Coming out of the cushion and on the hard pack when the power hits must be a quite a thrill.
An anticipated hit at the right time.....
If it works don't fix it.

BTW, I love the lectron on my 165 in the woods and even the desert.

I hope you have some videos of your son. There may be more FT fans here than you think.

you may find that a flat track tyre will also lose a couple of hp compared to a road tyre - a trials tyre does.
here are a couple of dyno runs that shows figures in the high twentys
So it all depends on the dyno - big variance in figures
but 28hp is fairly common result
first one is a wr125 with a scalvini pipe
next is a bike test with 150s results




also this thread - amongst others

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/wr125-dyno-testing.13556/page-2

Aha! I should be riding woods with street tires then so I can make the most horsepower to the ground.

ha ha - no it s just to compare apples with apples - most dyno figures are done with street tyres