Mine was just slightly damp, but while I was sealing the intake on Sat. I decided to take the bowl off the lectron just to make sure things looked normal and the gasket seemed to be in the slot pretty good so just made sure everything was clean and tightened the bolts good. Can't tell if it was damp after ride on Sunday because it wasn't dusty like it was during the ride that I posted pictures here. Thanks for the additional setup tips I hope to work on it tomorrow evening.
Is it normal for gas to come out the one line on the side of the carb? I still have that a little bit and it's making the engine wet. Didn't know if this was normal or if maybe the float is off or something isn't sealing completely in the carb?
Thanks that was the same thought I had. Followed your set up guide tonight and also measured the rod before starting but I think the bike is running better now. I'll know more this weekend. So far from the way the carb was shipped I went 1 full turn richer on the meter rod and have idle about 1.25 out. Really seemed to help with the lean condition in first 1/4 of throttle. Still might be able to go another 1/4 or even 1/2 I'll wait and ride it first. PJ seemed to work best at 2 turns out, again will play with it when I ride it more in real world riding if things don't seem or sound right. Stupid question why/when does gas come out that hose? I mean on normal carbs it runs out the overflow when I crash or lay the bike over but I wasn't sure if the same was happening with the Lectron. Because it is putting out gas from the hose even when I haven't crashed. So just asking and will it affect mileage during a race? I have no idea how much is coming out.
remember that just a guide from info I have gathered and your setup might be slightly different. if your float bowl level is high it might slop some out but should not be dripping all the time. I run much longer hoses and run them up and over the carb like a Keihn does, works great.
make sure the fuel line has a clamp on it at the inlet or it will leak down the side of the bowl and make it look like a bowl gasket failure. Good tight fuel line and clamp no leaky.
We learned this weekend at the NW gathering if you are trying to jet out a bog and hit it might be the power valve setting not the carb. We were all over the place trying to solve a bog / hit situation. Turned out to be the power valve arm setting was off. Made a HUGE difference in output. Just food for thought when tuning your bike.
That is what my friend thought it might be also and I am done playing with the 144 so going to try and get the 165 on this week. Is there a certain power valve setting I need to make sure the new valves are at on the 165? Riding the bike in real world Sunday it had the same bog when hitting hills and just wore me out trying to keep it on the pipe and going. So the 165 will be going on this week if time permits. Also last week when adjusting Lectron my meter rod is MS 3 is that the proper rod for the 125/144/165 or do I need the 3.1???
the MS3 will be fine for that. Make sure your lower power valve arm adjustment bolt is half or more the way up the slot. Steves was at the bottom and there was free play int he PV arm. There should be some preload on it. I find the bolt int he slot should be half to 3/4 to the top of the slot for proper running / no bog.
Thanks for the info on the MS3 and also on the power valve adjustment I'll be checking that and resetting it if I leave the 144 cylinder on before riding this weekend. Who knows if time permits I might put the 165 on and still adjust the power valves as well. Walt recommended on 165 just put it half way in slot. Might do 144 one more weekend don't want to introduce even more variables into my problem.
Here is a good read on the powervalve adjustment: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/125-power-valve-adjustment-again.9309/
