FE/FC Let's see pictures of your new FE501

Hey Bowser, Im in Springwood, (2015 FE 501) your image looks like the Blueys, are you from the area?

My new 15' fe501. So far im I'm loving it! It has 1.5 hours on it currently.

Not 100% brand new, but the only thing I could find nearby that wasn't a 17hr round trip was used but only had 243 miles on it so when I went to look at it, it looked brand new:




^My nearly brand new 2016 FE501S! Normally I don't buy used recreational/offroad machines but 243 miles didn't seem like a lot and it looked brand new and for whatever reason the original owner parted with it right away so I felt that the machine needed someone to take it under their wing and use and love it as intended so I took the chance on a used one...

Long story short, regardless if I was only trail riding I always preferred MX bikes for their power, suspension, weight and ergos and where riding areas are very limited these days where I'm from, I could no longer justify the price of a bike for offroad only use so the either the street legal KTM EXC or Husqvarna FE S models fit the bill. I never owned a non-Jap bike before and I can say that this thing exceeded my expectations! The clutch and shifting is so much better than I've ever experienced before and all the talk about these things being geared too tall I expected no power hit like my MX bikes (last bike owned was a 2007 KX450f) but this thing has more power and torque than you can shake a stick at and rips! It already had a FMF silencer installed and I think it looks so much better than stock....



The fuel mileage of this bike really sticks out too.... As much as it pains me to admit being a diehard Kawasaki fan, this is the best bike I've ever owned! I put 105 miles on it in two days, last Saturday I did a 40 mile round trip on one trail alone that otherwise I wouldn't have been able to get to on a offroad only bike (it's about a 10 minute road ride from where I live). Being able to ride on the road legally is the shit, but I still feel like I'm doing something illegally since I feel like I'm riding a MX bike, lol.

OK its been awhile since I have posted anything about my 15' FE501.

I recently through down some cash and went all in with the purchase of a Rekluse Core 3.0 EXP Auto Clutch. At the same time I installed Rekluse's new updated Left Hand Rear Brake lever set up. I also installed their specific Case saver/Slave cylinder guard over the adjustable Rekluse slave cylinder. I previously had an "Enduro Engineering" case saver. Which worked very well for the first 102 hours and 2000 miles. I could have drilled out the "Enduro Engineering" case saver so adjustments can be made to the Slave Cylinders adjuster but where I purchased the Rekluse EXP Clutch set up. I basically got the guard thrown in for $10.00 more. So the "EE" guard got removed and thrown in the used parts box.

After a ride with this set up yesterday. All I can say is "WOW" !

Look I'm not one to much endorse many aftermarket outfits or their products that are out there.

I sort of get a bit sick of all the Hype about how some products that do the same thing as some other products are so much better than everybody else's. Raw material is raw material. When I go out and thrash it, I don't care to be overcharged or forced to feel obligated to buy someone's products or just outright be bamboozled into being told that a particular part has some secret name for the material they use to make it. As if it was so superior to all the other's out their, when its a commercially available alloy, etc.

In this particular case however. There really isn't anybody else out there that makes anything comparable to compete with the Rekluse 3.0 Clutch. First of all, the machining on the Rekluse components is absolutely top notch. The install went smoothly. Instructions were easy to follow. The Rekluse Left Hand Rear Brake set up comes with 2 large clear plastic syringes that make bleeding the system a 10 minute, 1 man job. They come with the kit and have the correct hoses attached along with small plastic pinch type hose clamps to keep them put while they are on the caliper and levers bleed nipples. This makes installation of the complete set up a total breeze. It couldn't be any easier to do and these syringes are put away for future use.

By the way I used one of the LHRBs included syringes to back bleed the Clutch slave cylinder as well. By simply taking off the Clutch lever master cylinders reservoir cap and pushing fresh fluid all the way up through the system and flushing it of any old fluid and any air bubbles. The fluid needed flushing anyway, as it was discolored and dirty. Same as the rear brakes fluid. After a good bleeding of both systems. It became apparent that I have not been kind to the rear brakes or the clutch on this bike for the first 2000 miles

That all being said. The FE501 is a climbing beast of a bike to begin with. It is known for having "Tractor" like power delivery. All I can say is now its about like its been crossed with a freaking "Mountain Goat". It will go anywhere now. It flat ate up everything I could throw at it. 4 ft. straight up creek ledges, jagged loose rock gardens, You name it. I pushed the bike as hard as I could. You could damn near ride it all day anywhere in 3rd gear. Only having to downshift to 2nd gear in some of the steep climbs a few times in the roughest of terrains. Not having to clutch it in this stuff is awesome.

Going down some of these loose rocky hills can be very dangerous. If you have to use the rear brake the hand lever is there for you if you have to put your right foot down. Its even more of a benefit if you have to get off the bike and walk it down "bulldogging" it down through the rocks. These hills previously, could easily get you in trouble by locking up the rear wheel on some of the loose jagged sharp rocky down hills. You don't want to do be doing that here where I ride and that's now no longer an issue.

Now that the engine can't be stalled even if you deliberately tried to do this. No more worries about high speed panic stops for ravines, huge ruts and ditches that seemingly come from knowhere. These get carved out by the monsoon season rains each year that crop up over some of the old trails we are used to riding. There's just no more worry about having to clutch it or having to be careful not to stall the engine. This thing now just keeps on going. It will keep on going to the point you will have to hang onto it to keep going. When before you would have stalled and dropped the bike and if you were lucky to stay on your feet and run past the bike in a get off, hoping you didn't fall or "biff" it when the bike goes down.

I can say this is the best modification I have ever done to any motorcycle I have ever owned and it was worth every penny it cost. I just wish I would have done it sooner.

I got it in feb of 2016, non S model.

Some single track time.
Here's a pic post install of my 4.1 gal tank. I really liked the look of the stocker, but really really like the additional range this big one gives.

First trip, Quartz mtn. Chilcotins

Big Timmy,

Love your posts, and thanks for the information on the Rekluse! I've been considering pulling the trigger on this, and based on your review, I'm going for it!

I purchase a 2016 non-S model this summer and love it!

Got a question for you: The tool bag mounted to your rear fender - brand name? How is it mounted, and do you like it?

Husky-Nut,

I don't like quoting peoples posts. So this is directly to you.

You wont be sorry installing the Rekluse. Its awesome. So much easier to enjoy riding. It seems like at least 97% of the deceleration braking still remains. Once it does begin to slip from the Rekluse you could step off the bike or you are stopping anyway. The clutch can still be used conventionally anytime. You will find that you will learn throttle application to be more precise and this allows you to go places you would have struggled with before. I am still blown away. If you are in too high of a gear you will just shift down as you will feel like any further throttle application would make the clutch slip. Even though it won't if you pay attention. But you could actually take off in 5th or 6th gear slowly on flat ground with easing on the throttle. Not that you would but you could.

It can make you lazy but it can also make riding a breeze. The engine just can't be stalled. No matter what you do or even if you make a (what would have previously been) big riding mistake. You will love this device. It flat hammers the clutch discs when adjusted correctly and it seems that clutch wear would be minimized so it would cause the clutch discs to last much longer. I previously was running the 280lb. KTM/Husky Power parts Race Clutch spring. I got it from "Slavens Racing". However when I installed the Rekluse, I went back to the stock 250lb. spring and it works great and the lever pull takes less effort.

Adjustment can be just a few tick marks off on the adjustable slave cylinder and the clutch will not fully disengage or it will creep a little in gear with the clutch lever out. If its too tight or a few clicks too far in, it will cause the clutch to slip in higher gears. It seems if you want to bump start the bike a 4mm allen wrench and turn the adjuster out about 1/2 a turn and the engine will turn over in gear, so it could be bump started if necessary. Easy peasy. Just find neutral after its running, stop and do a quick readjust back to the previous tick mark on the adjustable slave cylinder and you are off riding again. Too simple, seriously right out of the box this thing is dialed. Bleeding is too simple also. I used 1 of the 2 bleeding syringes that came with the Left hand rear brake set up. It only took a few minutes.

As for the tool pouch: Its a "Dirt Bike Gear.com" fender bag. It comes in 2 sizes like the design of this particular one. I have the smaller one.
They also make several other types of bags as well and fanny packs.

It is of very good quality. I have commercial sewing machines and heavy saddle stitching machines at home and have repaired about every pouch I have ever bought for one reason or another. This fender pouch, I have never had to mess with and the zipper cover flap is plenty wide and it seals up well. It is permanently mounted with 4 nuts and bolts through the white fender only. It has a thin plastic stiffener panel inside the packs bottom, that is removable, that allows you to mount it to a plastic surface securely. So it doesn't tear through the bottom of the bag and come off. You kind of have to look at the underside of the fender to see where the bolts and nuts can be placed so it doesn't interfere with the under bracing part of the subframe that mounts the tail lights and license plate. Sacrificing a rear fender to do this has been well worth it though. You will get used to throwing your leg over it after a few rides. I can just feel it when I push my ass all the way back going down steep hills. Mine is mounted tight up to the back of the seat and just needs to be pinched rearward to drop the rear of the seat when putting the seat back on.

By the way, the straps on the outside of these packs expand out quite a ways to allow you to carry something strapped down on top of the pack. Like a plastic bottle of spare gas or your favorite flammable beverage. just in case you need to light a fire or a spare tube or something. This pack is very versatile. These outside straps are not just there to help seal the pack itself and the outside buckles and straps are pretty damned stout too.

Here's a picture of the one similar to mine. You will have to go online to find these. They are not on any bodies stock list that I know of. They are made in USA. The one I got was about 35 to 40 bucks. I can't remember where I got mine from exactly, may have been direct from them, or off of "E bay" or "Amazon". I can't remember.

Absolutely stunning bike, drooling over her. Nice work.

Hello TImmy, solid as they come Husky. Nice touches you've added. Your bike is a lucky bike. Wondering if you would mind sharing what guard you are using on the right side of the crankcase? I'm purchasing a 2017 FE501 I'd like to explore the FLO products and if necessary upgrade the pegs, shifter, levers, Rad guard, and front and back rotor and brake guards. Long list. I'm sure you can relate. I love to tinker and adding crash protection is a good idea as I do a lot of riding in rocks gardens and climbs in Vancouver BC Canada.

The right hand case guard is an "STR" piece. I got it from "Slavens Racing". It protected the case well for the first brutal 100 or so hours. It was about $65.00. I don't think it will fit the new 2017 engines design though.
Its no longer on my bike now. Since the thicker Rekluse case was installed after the installation of the new Rekluse Core EXP 3.0 clutch set up.

Thank BT,

I emailed them to see if they have one planned.

Also, do you expect the 17FE 501 to also benefit from a Recluse or with the new design its anticipated to be needed to a less degree? Of course I'm asking you to look into your crystal ball but if you had to predict. What say you?

Thanks BT

I would say the new engine would benefit from a Rekluse clutch too. There wouldn't be any reason the new engine would need it to a lesser degree. You have to firstly understand what exactly the Rekluse clutch actually does. I don't care what dirt bike engine you are talking about. Every single model of off road and on road motorcycle could benefit from this set up.
We just installed a Rekluse clutch in one of my Buddies new Yamaha 1000 YXZ side by side. He also upgraded to a STM Billet basket and Alba Racing fiber clutch plates. This thing came stock with a clutch pedal and sequential shifting 5 spd. gear box. Not a variable ratio "CVT" transmission like most all the other side by sides.

It would sometimes stall when going slowly across deep diagonal ruts and in tight rocky terrain at real slow speeds. It changed the way you drive this thing completely. It doesn't stall anymore. Its even more awesome of a modification than the results you get installing one on a bike.

Thanks TImmy,

I like the idea of going with the rear brake on the bars. Do you find wheelies are easier to manage? I guess its more peace of mind in circumstances that your off balance and the right foot is not completely locked down then you always have your rear hand brake on the bars available where as in the past if the foot is off your potentially in trouble.

You probably can modulate better the rear as well eh?

I'll add your recommendation to my growing list. LOL. This one sounds like a must have.

Would you agree that your technical climbs result in less wheel spin now because you can grab a higher gear always where in the past gear selection was so much more important?

Hey I forget to ask. The brake set up. Is the top lever the clutch and the bottom the Brake. Also, I'm assuming you can switch the orientation. I.e Have the brake lever on the top and the clutch lever lower etc?