FE/FC Let's see pictures of your new FE501

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Love these photo's! Great photo's of you and your buddies rippin together. Waiting for my first 501 is the toughest part so I find myself looking at your pictures and stories a lot. Hey, the 501 decal with the skull is a nice tough. Where did you find that?

Cheers,

Christian
Deep Cove,
BC

Menat to

Brake lever is below in my set up. It could go above but I didn't find it to suit me or my riding style. I stand up a lot so its easier to use being lower. The Brake pedal still works as well. Or you can use both at once. You can feel it modulate the brake real well through the lever especially if you let your foot off the pedal.

Its only a 2 finger lever, adjustable in or out for reach and the lever has another adjuster for sensitivity as well. Its easy to use. I have to get used to it. Its hard to brake old habits. But its a lot easier to brake hard into fast right hand turns. Drag a foot if you like or need to and just use the lever.

I steer with my back wheel most of the time. I like to back it into turns most of the time when riding at speed, with my feet up 95% of the time. Only dab a foot when I'm in trouble. Where we ride, dabbing a foot can get you in trouble. Lots of rocks to take your foot off.

I'm not much of a slow speed balance wheelie type guy. We mostly ride higher speed rough rocky stuff. Lots of creek beds and washes. Not many open areas to ride longer wheelies where you would need to use much braking while doing so. So I can't say the LHRB would be any better.

I do power wheelie a lot through the first 4 gears but try to keep it to a minimum, so I can lay down tractable power to the ground. Once the rear tire is compromised it gets removed and trashed. My bike has 108 Hours, 5th rear tire has about 10 hours. I'll run it to 25 hours or so and it goes "bye bye". I got 3 new spares in the garage.

The left hand brake lever is a radial designed master cylinder rather than the lateral design of the clutch and front brake. Take a close look at the picture.
So it's design allows it to occupy less area and it being small has less interference with the clutch lever.

Look up "Rekluse Left hand rear brake install" on YouTube. It will show the whole set up.

As for the Rekluse clutch, you can be a gear high some of the time and power through but careful application of the throttle is key. I still find myself doing things in about the same gears but you do sometimes surprise yourself if you get lazy coming over the top of a good climb.

Thanks buddy! The last 10 years I've been riding some pretty knarly downhill mountain biking in BC so the left hand brake is actually second nature to me. The transition should be pretty smooth for me I'm hoping. I like the keep both feet focused on being locked in. I hear you on dropping a foot down can get you into trouble. I think the feel you get from your hands comparable to boots is definitely more connected. Great info and thanks for being a great resource for all that is needed or just plan cool to have

P.S Have you tried the Shinkos 505's on your 501? My plan is to upgrade the shinny new showroom tires with some yummy Shinko 505's and the TuBliss system.

I run the Tubliss system as well.

So far I haven't ran any of the "Shinkos" yet. My buddy has ran the "Shinko 520" and it chunked whole knobs off of it here and in Utah. He just went to the Maxxis desert IT. He will run a tire down to nothing though. I won't. He also runs tubes and higher pressures.

I have ran the "Sedona 887", "Sedona 907", the stock "AT81 Dunlop" sucked, Also ran a "Kings 9661", now I'm back to the "Sedona 907". I like it, the "Sedona 907" I run at about 6 lbs. to 8 lbs. It seems to be the best tire so far for here. It wears pretty well. It allows the bike to steer well and controllably, feet up, with the rear tire in a slide but takes some getting used to, before you develop that confidence for controlled slide technique.

To explain that. All I can say is, at first it seems you may be sliding out of control but you can put the screw of the throttle hard to a "907" and let it do its thing and it's a self correcting tire. It will hook unlike the others I have ran. Straight line traction at low pressures is very good.

I have ran the "Michelin S12" and a few others on my other bike "TC 449 Powered BMW G450X" and I now run the "MotoZ Tractionator" on it. Its a phenomenally good tire but in the 140/80/18" size the center tends to wear out and then it tends to not want to turn in well. But it lasts forever. Its a mount it and forget it tire. Tough as hell and worth every penny. It picks up everything on the ground and throws it way up in the air with the roost. My riding Buddies hate it.

No more rain for a while here so, I'll be trying out the "Kenda 760 Trackmaster" and the "Kenda Parker" both next. They are both 6 ply carcasses. Should work out well with low pressure of the "Tubliss". The only way to know is to run them all, test them to there limits which this place will do and keep records of how long they last. Which isn't very long.

So basically you love tires is what your saying. Great info as always Timmy. I appreciate all the examples of what worked and not so much. Solid detail.

I also was reading your post about Rekluse. Have you ever tried the Clake? I'm sure you had your reason for wanting the Rekluse. Just finished watching this video. This channel cracks me up. Not sure if you ever watch his videos but he's both funny and informative.


View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XOMaH5kIZPs

Oh yes, I've seen the "Clake" levers evolve over the years. Their are plenty of examples of that on "Youtube" as well linked to the "Rekluse" clutch installs.

Lots of guys in OZ go back and forth between the combined twin levers and the dual master cylinders that "Clake" offers. which is a cool option being able to switch to either lever, up or down. Since the master cylinders themselves are identical.

You still have to have the "Rekluse" clutch installed though and the second line for the LHRB to run his lever.

The "Clake" levers are quite an investment, $700 to $850, just to change to his lever. Probably takes up less room on the bars and is more compact yes but I would have to have a failure of the "Rekluse" LHRB lever first at this point to see the need in replacing or going to the "Clake" dual lever set up. Even then I would reconsider this amount of money as an improvement or good investment over just replacing the "Rekluse" LHRB lever. Since I had gotten used to it.

Plus, I'm at this point not sure that the brake line included with the Rekluse LHRB is compatible with the Clake levers. If not, there is another piece or component that I would need for the "Clake" levers compatibility that would need to be replaced.

Quick turn around on individual parts here in the U.S. for the "Clake" would be important too. Since they are likely coming directly from Australia. Personally, I don't care for the "Clake" LHRB Pro Lever- Dual control. I would go with the "Clake" LHRB Two - dual control and it's $840.00 alone. Cha ching.

I know that may sound ridiculous me saying that, as I have dumped a bunch of cash already in the bike just for entertainments sake and functionality. Since I'm not a bike racer and this is just a hobby to keep my "Beat up" 57 year old ass in shape. But I justify it by simply keeping the bike up, ready to go and running all the time. That's what I like, more than I like buzzing off rear tires.

Actually riding is "Whats up", so rear tires seem to be a thing of the past. Since it's sort of behind me when I'm riding, I don't much think about how much it's wearing out while I'm out riding. I think more about how much the rear tire is hooking up, (or not), not how much the rear tire is wearing out.

Its only when I get off the bike after a ride that it occurs to me to look how much of the knobs are actually worn off. Which I guarantee you, always brings a big smile to my face. I could care a less. Its worth every penny. On top of that, its damned cheap entertainment, compared to 25 years of 8 and 9 second drag racing and smoking off sets of drag racing slicks a few times too many per season. Dirt bike tire costs are mere pennies on the dollar.

Extra new dirt bike tires stacked up in the garage assures me the big smiles and cheap entertainment continues.

I'm in the camp of running a Rekluse and then going back to a clutch. I loved the Rekluse for the first few months but the love affair faded and I realized the advantages of the full clutch outweighed the Rekluse. It's a decent quality product but it took me some time to realize it wasn't the right fit for me. Lot's of riders love them so it's a matter of preference and comfort. It's great we have awesome products to choose from. Dirt bikes are the best

You can still use your clutch.....

Oh I'm quite aware of how it works, it just wasn't my cup of tea. As I stated, I was smittened at first but eventually realized what my preference was. I'm not bashing it by no means, it's a solid product and many riders love them. It's like oil preference I guess...

Thanks everyone. I think I'll give the Rekluse a try, that and the Scott Steering Stabilizer with the Pivot Pegz.

I'm really hoping someone soon gets their FE501. I can't wait to see one and hear a review. Anything to help the wait. Its hard to believe a dirt Magazine hasn't reviewed it yet, i.e test ridden etc.

Are you guys running Flexx Bars or Twisted Engineering with Scott Steering Stabilizer?

Which set up would you recommend, any thoughts or feedback would be great. Thanks guys

Guys, have you had much luck negotiating a decent $PRICE$ on your 2017 FE 501?

Im in Western Canada and they are listed at $11,999 and they love to try and throw Freight/PDI $650 and their lovely Doc fee of $195.

Dealers; if they know your going to be a good customers and are planning to purchase parts from them are usually willing to help out a bit. I.e $750-$1000 off the price.

Anybody willing to share there 2017 FE 501 price negotiated?

Thanks amigos

Sold my "Baja" 690 after close to 8 k on the peninsula and built a 2015 501 FE as my Baja ride. Looking forward to the single track sections less about 60 lbs.

Lpo

Love the utilitarian work horse look this bike has. Badass set up. Just to be clear. Is this a 2015 501 FE that you completed modified for Baja rides?

Stunning bike! Who makes all the crash protection you decided on? Love your choices! Nailed it!

Love the utilitarian work horse look this bike has. Badass set up. Just to be clear. Is this a 2015 501 FE that you completed modified for Baja rides?

Stunning bike! Who makes all the crash protection you decided on? Love your choices! Nailed it![/quote]

Thanks, yes that is my 2015. I'm big on utility, particularly since 8 days in Baja commands reliability and ease of repair in the field. I used a of the mods I did on my 690, nothing too exotic and done by many I'm sure.
Cycra Pro hand guards
ODI Imig loc-on grips
GPR under bar damper (a little over 1" rise)
Baja Designs XL Pro LED headlight with dimmer switch-4700 lumens. Seems we always get caught out at night so lighting is important and tacos taste better at night
Motion Pro disc guard front and rear
Acerbis fork tube guards - snap together in the back, cleaning the dust seals is much easier
Motion Pro dirt style mirror on left; Ram ball on front brake perch accepts Double Take mirror for road sections
Acerbis 4.1 gal tank - kept the stock with fuel pump and left radiator guards on. One bolt and the Acerbis is off, add the two lower bolts, oem is on - 10 minutes or less. Insulated the underside of the tank with aluminum/fiberglass tape, a lot cheaper at your local hot rod shop.
14 tooth Renthal counter with Dirt Tricks washer. 50 tooth rear, will swap oem for MSR steel unit aka Iron Man. MP case guard.
TMD plastic skid/Obie plastic link glide plate
CJ Designs peg extensions
Race Tech bladder kit for rear damper/ removed closed fork valving up front. We were able to get 34mm static and 105 race sag with full gear, another round of preload should compensate for fully packed Baja trips, so the stock springs will work for me. MP micro bleeders.
Polisport or Acerbis, cant remember which, swing arm "scratch"protector. I used stainless steel zip ties and lined the inside.
Giant Loop Mojave and Rouge top bag. I put a Wolfman tank bag on but I probably wont use it. I should be able to carry all I need and I like the extra room up front. Waiting on set of side covers, I use a few reinforced D ring quick fasteners to keep the bags tight to the side of the bike.
Adding an LED bar on the license plate for added visibility. I wire the brake and tail together
Opened the oem rear cap. Waiting for new Husky dealer to get all the software to install the Euro map
Using a Garmin Montana in a TourTech mount on a short ram arm powered off the battery with a lighted switch to remind me to kill the power if I'm parking the bike. Carry a super light/compact Arteck rescue batter just in case
Seat Concepts 8" comfort seat
Amsoil 10/50 with a stainless filter

Thinking the bike will do well in Baja. I ride pretty much the same terrain at home, just one day at a time. I'd use my 525 with Kibble White stainless valves but the EFI gas mileage is a game changer. Riding my usual brisk pace on a 50 mile loop I try to do a few times a week, the 501 averaged 42+ mpg. I should have a 160-180 range, great for Baja. I squeezed 100 miles out of the stock tank, had to lay it down once to drain everything to the left side. Great for my loop, no bueno for Baja. Happy Thanksgiving all, heading south for Turkey enchiladas tomorrow.

Unbelievable set up.Stellar work. Can I just send you my bike when she arrives and say. Do her up like yours~!. Awesome detail. Thank you for all the information.

If my 2017 has half of these one day I'll be very happy but all of them would be optimal. Also want to add a Scott Steering Stablizer.

Cheers!

Wadz

Anyone comment on Enduristan Tankbag recommendation for the FE 501? I love that their bags are waterproof without having to put on a tankbag cover. They are expensive but so are GL and wolf.

Love to hear any feedback on Enduristan durability and or fitment to the bike. Love their Monsoon soft panniers as well.

What say you guys !!

https://www.advmotorrad.com/index.p...ct&product_id=565&search=Sandstorm 3S tankbag

No experience with that one, but I like my wolfman enduro. Small, doesn't get in the way, and anything I put in there that I need to stay dry goes in a ziplock baggie