Little Tricks

Discussion in 'Common Items on Husqvarnas: Tires/tubes/grips/etc' started by HuskyDude, Aug 18, 2008.

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  1. Dirtdame Administrator

    Location:
    Rock Springs Wy
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    11 WR300,13 WR125,18 FE501
    Other Motorcycles:
    17 Beta Xtrainer
    I started carrying fleece gloves too, on the rare wet and snowy riding occasions. I have always removed and wrung out my gloves at a rest stop and shoved them up against the engine to warm up, while my hands ended up in fleece pockets or close to the hot engine.
    Dirtdame, May 26, 2009
    #41

  2. rancher1 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    WA
    Every time I change my rear tire I pull the chain adjuster bolts and apply anti-seize. This will prevent a major PIA of the bolts seizing.
    rancher1, May 26, 2009
    #42

  3. HuskyDude Moderator

    Location:
    BC, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    13/TR650
    Other Motorcycles:
    10/EC300, 76/TY175
    :busted::busted:
    I "Never Seize" every bolt I touch work, home, bike....
    It's becoming so bad I just can't help myself.:excuseme:
    When someone else at work, takes something apart I've worked on they know I've been there....:D

    :lol::lol::lol:
    HuskyDude, May 26, 2009
    #43

  4. rajobigguy Administrator

    Location:
    So.Cal.
    Just remember that torque values go way down depending on what type of thread lubricant you use. I'm going to try and post or have the site host some charts and graphs that have values for different lubricants.
    I have a really slick program for figuring out how much reduction in torque value there is but it will have to be hosted some how and I haven't figured out how to do that yet.
    rajobigguy, Jun 16, 2009
    #44

  5. gem Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    British Columbia
    A little trick that I picked up;

    When changing oil use the cardboard roll from the toilet paper and slide it up through the skid plate over the drain plug bolt. Now insert your socket on an extension up the tube and remove the drain bolt. The toilet tube 'guides' the oil down into the drain pan and eliminates the mess all over the inside of your skid plate! It helps to have the bike on the stand and offset the hole in the stand to slightly pinch the toilet roll keeping it from falling with the oil.

    Hope I've described this ok. If it isn't understandable post up and I'll try to attach pictures.
    gem, Jun 18, 2009
    #45

  6. Dirtdame Administrator

    Location:
    Rock Springs Wy
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    11 WR300,13 WR125,18 FE501
    Other Motorcycles:
    17 Beta Xtrainer
    The cardboard tube sounds like just the thing.:thumbsup: I'm tired of having to try to wipe oil off the top side of my skid plate.:doh:
    Dirtdame, Jun 19, 2009
    #46

  7. Howard70 Husqvarna
    A Class

    Location:
    Belen, New Mexico
    Never Seize Vs Loctite

    A quick question for those of you who know more about fasteners than I do (in other words 99.99% of the list):

    Some of us use Loctite to reduce the loss of fasteners due to vibration, others use thread lubricants like Never Seize to avoid "frozen" fasteners. The two types of thread treatment seem opposed?

    If I use a thread lubricant am I increasing the likelihood of lossing fasteners due to vibration? Do loctite like products provide a barrier to corrosion and prevent frozen fasteners (as long as you stay away from the "permanent" sort)?

    I've used blue loctite extensively and haven't had frozen fasteners on my bike but I've only been at it for a year and haven't been in very corrosive situations. In my sailboat days there was a real problem with stainless fasteners in aluminum fixtures when exposed to salt water. There I found only one product (Lanacote or Lanocote) that would reliably isolate stainless from aluminum and prevent bimetallic corrosion.

    What do you all think?

    Howard
    Howard70, Jun 19, 2009
    #47

  8. xymotic Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Federal Way, WA
    I'm worried about this as well since I live on a sailboat and my bike is parked 50' from the ocean. On the boat I use 'tef-gel' for every aluminium to stainless connection, but I'm afraid of vibration on the bike.
    xymotic, Jun 19, 2009
    #48

  9. rajobigguy Administrator

    Location:
    So.Cal.
    Well here is my take on the situation.
    When you have two dissimilar metals you need to take special care because they will create a eletric potential between the two of them and no amout of sealing will stop the process.
    In the case of aluminum and stainless what will happen is the aluminum being the more moleculary unstable between the two will give up one of its elctrons and form an oxidation in the joint between the two materials. This aluminum oxide is very hard and crystaline so it makes the two patrs difficult to get apart. I would use a graphite spray on the fastener and then coat it with a metalic base "anti seize", something with copper or silver would be prefered.

    So far as wheter to use anti seize or locktite, well it depends on what you're fastening. If the bolt has a torque spec than I would use anti sieze. For this application I would use a non metalic base lubricant that contains "moly" or ceramic. Remember to reduce the torque spec. accordingly. Arule of tumb is that if the torque spec is given for a dry make up that you should reduce the torque by 10% when using moly base lubes and 20% when using metal based lubes.

    For fasteners that don't have a torque value just use what makes sense. If its in a high vibration are then blue loctite works well and isn't to tuff to remove. If it is in a in a potentially corrosive area then some sort of thread ube might be better. If its in a high vibration area that is exposed to the elements then you might want to use loctite when assembling the fastener, then coat with grease to keep the rust and corrosion to a minimum.
    rajobigguy, Jun 19, 2009
    #49
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