Living with a 2010 Husky TE 510!

Hey Mike, I have an 09 te510 with the same issues, cycle works replacement fuel pump fixed the starting drama's (standard fuel pump would get hot expanding internally giving the impression of a weak battery), now just the flame out issue to fix (still heat related, I live in the tropic's so it's always hot) I have an ibeat and can have it running fine, but once it's hot she flames out making it a pain to ride. Will try unplugging the temp sensor, should go into a default mode, this will keep the fan running all the time, will also add a second fan (computer fans work a treat !) and adapt an oil cooler from a road bike, did these last two mod's to my kato, hasn't boiled for the last 30k klm's. good luck!

Topender,
Since I do not have iBeat I had to kind of trouble shoot based on similar symptoms/fixes of others posted here. I rode her last weekend with no issues, was able to turn off/on and start right up. So I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the bugs are worked out.

All connections Dio-greased
Relays replaced (D/C, P, F)
Fuses replaced (15a,15a,20a)
Fuel Pump replaced (Ca-Cycleworks)
Coil/wire/plug replaced

I want this bike to work, I love the way it rides and the power....Oh the power! I purchased the bike based on 3 others I ride with, and they have had no problems.

I have a TE450 2009 with less than 300km and may be 10 hours max and i think im gonna have a major ishue soon. The engine run great on the idle, when i speed up it seems really good too but when i rev the bike pretty high and i drop the gas i can hear a weird sound from the front of the engine, i can't figure where it's from exactely but i'm a little bit worry now. I start to use the bike a few weeks ago but i gought in May 2010 so no waranty anymore. Sombody had a similar problem beafore?

Little squirt -I had same issue as this on my 250 but found that this happens when the wire from the ignition gets pulled tight - runs down the right side under tank
seen similar posts - must be a common issue with the ignition switch wiring
need to zip tie cable in a position that works - hasnt recurred

By the way I was riding yesterday and found a guy on an as new 09 510 with a throttle cable snapped in the middle somewhere

I did one test ride on my Husky in the dirt and then had the GPR damper installed on my 510 te and rode it in Baja for three days. I am sure that it saved me more than once.

I had bought an after market tank, the stabilizer would not fit with the tank. I called the tank manufacturer and they were not very helpful. I called GPR and since I was local they encouraged me to stop by so they could come up with solution to make it work, they did. It worked great and the service was great.

Quick update...
Put 100 trouble free miles of trail ridin in Colorado yesterday

Today, I go to start the bike....nothing! WTF! I lean against the seat and it comes to life Long story short, the + positive terminal on the battery (Scorpion) seperated internally. Quick trip to Big D Recreation-Artic Cat 719-387-9288 in Woodland Park for a new battery (not exact replacement, but got me back on the trail)

Im hoping my troubles are behind me.

Wow!

This thread sure got derailed.

why? the title says "Living with a Husky" I think any reply would be justified

on a seperate note, i replaced my fp with the CA cycle works one and no problems yet even when hot. Had it flame out a couple times while riding up some stairs and took a couple clicks on the button to get her re-fired...maybe i need to drop 1 tooth on the front??

Our 2010 TE510 ran quite a bit hotter with the Safari tank. We made a number of modifications to cool it down.

We have the improved water pump impeller, CV4 hoses, stock radiators (we had the Fluidyne radiators, but there were some big technical difficulties !!), stock radiator cap, 140mm fan on right radiator, and right radiator moved forward and down to allow room for the fan and airflow behind it.

We wired the fan to bypass the temperature switch; instead it goes to a handlebar mounted on/off switch (off a KLX110). Generally, it will be turned on any time the bike is running. That fan is so quiet, I'm absolutely positive it will get left on !!!

We run Maxima Cool-Aide fluid. The next modification will be to move the left radiator to match the right, and mount another 140mm fan on it.

We also have an engine oil cooler. My son just rode through the desert today, from San Diego to Phoenix, without any reported overheating. It was 110 (about 43C) in the desert today.

It's hard to see in this photo, but you should see the aluminum plate used to relocate the radiator, and how much extra space that provided:

UPDATE: 4500 miles!

Like they say: No news is good news.

As usual the loudest people are the ones w/ issues, while the quiet ones are out riding.

Since I sorted out the EFI issues everything has been running flawlessly. I'm still running the Power Commander + Autotune. I set it up and just let it do it's thing.

I just got back from 4 days and 500/600 miles of hard riding in Utah and the Husky ran great.





The valves are still in spec and I averaged 35 MPG during this trip. The only other modification have done is the addition of a Spal push fan w/ a handlebar switch on the front of the left radiator that I can run w/ things get slow and hot.

The only things left that bother me are the vibrations (got to ride my buddies KTM 525 EXC which feels electric smooth compared to the Husky) & the short ratio gearbox. You really have to wring the bikes neck out to run 70 mph in the desert, while the KTM feels like it's just putting along at the same speed, but 1/2 the RPM.

I put a 46 tooth rear on to try and give the Husky a bot more legs.

Here are a few more pictures from the ride:

The X2 Headlight is a great light for the money. However, DO NOT get the DOT version. Get the regular halogen one. It's cheaper and puts out more light. The DOT one is not really DOT approved, it just has a CE approved lens that has a nice cut off. The problem is that the cut off lens really reduces the light output and makes the low beam more of a marker light than a light you can drive with. The large 4" high beam works great.

The FMF Q4 exhaust blew out the quiet insert and really needs to be repacked so I'm back to running the stock arrow.

excellent pics Danbartol

What sprockets are you running and what routes did you do in Utah?

Maybe a counter balancer from the SM for less vibs???

I typically keep the 14/46 gearing for 90% of my riding and occasionally do they 13/46 for the real hard stuff. I have even tried 15/46 for more dual sporting, but it's a bit tall and takes the snap/fun out of the Husky.

We rode all over the place. Day one was some stuff around Green River, day two was a 250 mile day in the San Raffael Desert, day three was White Wash and Day 4 was Rabbit Valley.

Your bike looks great. Good to hear you got it sorted out. Good info on the X2 light. My BD light works good but at about $50 a pop to replace a broken lens, I will probably get an X2 next time around. The Utah ride sure looked like a blast.

Hi Dan just thinking you said your husky runs hot. We run evans npg in all our bikes 2t and 4t and its certianly helped with the heat.

Been following your saga, I own a '08 510, i am having the hot start issue,
as you discovered in your story, the hot starting issue was the ignition lead and cap ? and this cured your problem?

I have over the years had a few problems, none ever stranding me, but that was more luck than design,
Coil terminals coming loose,
Relays rubbing through case and getting contaminated (pump relay)
Fan siezing
connectors behind headlight corroding
fuses getting micro cracks (look ok but cracked when looking closely)
lower link bearings seizing up in real wet weather (we had 600 mm / 2400 pts her last year) even after 2 grease sessions for the year.
Replaced the OEM fuel pump, but the original is still OK
rerouted rear brake line so it doesn't rub hole in case
fitted PCV and AT (thanks Scott @ Semco for help, because i was a bit slow on the uptake), fixed the flame out, it does change idle characteristics, i found that winding idle screw in to adjust idle level just made idle rough, screw out until idle is smooth, it settled at 1600/1650, low but it idles smooth and transitions fine, does have bring some heavy compression braking in some situations , but i can live with that.
Fitted a bum tank, works fine,
14 / 48 gearing

Been following your saga, I own a '08 510, i am having the hot start issue,
as you discovered in your story, the hot starting issue was the ignition lead and cap ? and this cured your problem?

I have over the years had a few problems, none ever stranding me, but that was more luck than design,
Coil terminals coming loose,
Relays rubbing through case and getting contaminated (pump relay)
Fan siezing
connectors behind headlight corroding
fuses getting micro cracks (look ok but cracked when looking closely)
lower link bearings seizing up in real wet weather (we had 600 mm / 2400 pts her last year) even after 2 grease sessions for the year.
Replaced the OEM fuel pump, but the original is still OK
rerouted rear brake line so it doesn't rub hole in case
fitted PCV and AT (thanks Scott @ Semco for help, because i was a bit slow on the uptake), fixed the flame out, it does change idle characteristics, i found that winding idle screw in to adjust idle level just made idle rough, screw out until idle is smooth, it settled at 1600/1650, low but it idles smooth and transitions fine, does have bring some heavy compression braking in some situations , but i can live with that.
Fitted a bum tank, works fine,
14 / 48 gearing

No the Hot Start issue was related to the PC-V & Autotune settings, once that was taken care of the hot start issue went away.

The bad coil was tied to a No Start issue.

Hope this helps.