Magura clutch

Interesting that this thread popped up, I just picked up a used TE 250 with 1200 miles., and just last weekend I noticed that the clutch doesn't fully disengage. (Like when I'm pushing the bike around, in gear, but not running). I also could not get it to shift into neutral, while it was running, when I was out in the woods. Which I read was also a problem for others on here.
A quick search here showed that this was a somewhat common problem. I see solutions like changing the clutch fluid, or at least making sure that it is clean and free of air or water. Changing the slave piston O ring with a X-ring. Replacing the slave piston with one from 7602. I saw one thread mentioning replacing the slave cylinder with a billet one from ZipTy but I couldn't find it on the ZipTy site.

So
I may start with a new piston from 7602 and see if it helps.

Where does one get a billet slave cylinder? I didnt see them on ZipTy.

What type of fluid is used in the Magura hydraulic clutches? It says "mineral oil", and I have read reference to "Magura blood" I know that brake fluid is a no no. Can someone point me to a good write up on changing the clutch fluid?

Thanks , Dan

7602 piston is most cost effective way to go provided the bore of the slave cylinder is in good condition.

Zip-Ty has the billet slave cylinder housing.

The new Oberon Performance slave is a more bang for the buck if you need a new slave housing. It is a complete assembly with a two ring design that is much improved over previously available alternatives.

The fluid required is mineral oil and yes, magura blood is mineral oil.

jeff

It's hard to find on their site:
http://www.ziptyracing.com/husqvarna-clutch-slave-cover/

I use baby oil, I got it at a drug store out on a ride (smallest bottle fits in toolkit) and that's all I use now, and I have 7602 slave piston, Honda CRF clutch plates and a shortened clutch rod, no problems except for the poorly made Magura master cylinder.

Thanks guys, now i need to study up on doing the fluid change and bleeding the system.

To update my previous post - I got a reply from Karp on the price of sleeving the magura master cylinder. They will insert a 304 stainless steel sleeve for $120. A little expensive - but I think I will go for it with a spare master cylinder I have as it will have *much* greater durability and reliability after this mod.

jeff

When considering upgrading the slave cylinder - I don't see a good reason to get the zip ty slave cylinder now that Oberon Performance has a complete slave cylinder that is superior in design. Cost of the Oberon plus shipping to U.S. is the cost of the Zip-ty plus cost of 7602 piston - but it uses better seals and uses a double seal setup to minimize wear.

I do still see a market for the 7602 piston due to it being so cost effective to upgrade the existing stock slave cylinder.

Jeff

Thanks for the heads up.
http://www.oberon-performance.com/acatalog/Husqvarna.html

Looks like $140 at the current exchange.

When you order on-line and enter a U.S. address the price is reduced by 20% to remove VAT (value add tax) that the europeans must pay. So it was $140-$150 with shipping to my door - with fast FEDEX shipping.

jeff

Don't use baby oil! Magura blood is the same as LHM+ a common hydraulic fluid for suspension, brake and clutch in cars (Citroen, Rolls-Royce), it's cheap too (like 7euro for a liter).
http://www.frontier.ro/files/pdf/LHM.pdf

Thanks- I have been busy with other things besides my bike (job, cars, house, etc- first time I have gone this long without riding my bike during the season... I think its effecting my outlook on life in a negative way... riding is a necessary part of my coping skills) - I should just send mine out too so I am good to go when I can play again.... That's cheaper than a new one at least.

well I went ahead- frustrated and just wanted it done, and bought the Magura "Hymec" model 167 master cylinder. Its also referred to as the "generation 2" model. This is the one I posted earlier.
It went on without an issue- stock clutch hose fit perfect. So far- testing in driveway- this master has an improved feel. It takes less pressure and less movement (throw) although it is a 9.5mm bore like my old one. It seems like an upgrade on the old one from a performance standpoint- hopefully a reliability standpoint as well. But at least I am starting off with a new one- by the way- I bought it from Amazon for $112...
I'll report back with my impressions after our club event this weekend "Bigwoods 200" AMA National Dualsport- I am going up tonight to finish set up of closed course single track sections. So I should have at least 300 miles of varied trail to test on by monday. http://www.widualsportriders.org/

We'll wait 'til your back.

Well- it was flawless yet improved, initially, then it started to get limpy in the last section of single track on day 2 <was pre-riding/completing final touches all the "hero sections" *technical single track) of our dualsport.> back-Bled it... Still minor issues (not consistent) on day 3 (2 sections of hard single track but my buddy blew his husaberg's radiator- so the day was cut short). Yesterday it was flawless, but I hardly used the clutch (all two track). So I am going to inspect my slave cylinder very closely. I had some marks when I replaced the piston last year with a 7062- but never really noticed much change. Because I committed to going to the Baby Burr DS in Ohio- there's not alot of room for me to slowly assess.... So I ordered the Zipty-Racing Slave Cylinder prior to my inspection... also some extra o-rings for the 7062 piston... Aside from that, I only have the hose... so I'll inspect that as well. I have to reinstall my buddies Fuel pump, change a fork seal- Thanks Mike for getting that out quickly!, and sort this clutch out before next week- leave on thursday. I don't normally spend money without an absolute certain diagnosis but I have a deadline...

Gotta say that it for the first 2 days- it was awesome to have confidence in the clutch system... I was riding really really well too . It messes with your head when you don't know how far you have to pull in the clutch= kinda destroys the hole "skill set" and muscle memory...

So.. I'll be back

Sorry to hear there was not absolute remedy, I am pretty sure I'm just gonna live with mine, I got an unnecessary 7602 piston and I'll just stay where I am, put a teaspoon of oil in after every other ride.

Well I did take the slave apart last night- the cylinder wall looks pretty good accept one spot. Its the same spot that I noticed last year but thought the 7602 piston would compensate and I may have underestamated the significance. It is a scrape down to aluminum about 3mm by 1.5mm and is located at about the location of the O-ring when the clutch is at rest. I also noticed a couple pits in the coating as well. The 7602 cylinder piston looked good with no marks. I think it was doing its job as intended but the wall of the cylinder is just imperfect enough to cause a problem.

So...everything was worn a little: original magura master "nickle coating" in the bore-gone, and the coating of the cylinder walls of the slave has a scratch. Symptoms: not really a great loss of fluid- but I'd notice my clutch fluid would have contamination/engine oil, and the pressure of the clutch would be inconsistent: sometimes I'd have to pull in 1/4 the way other times 1/2 and sometimes 3/4 for the same effect.

When my master leaked- I did notice fluid coming from where the piston is inserted- that stopped with the original Master after I smoothed out that bore. So yea, although not "correct" I think my old master cylinder without any nickel coating was doing a pretty good job. SO NOW that I entirely replaced that onto the OTHER USual SUspects.... I am confident the new zip-ty slave cylinder will do the job...

As for fluid: I have always used fork oil 2.5 wt, transmission fluid, I recently did buy the actual MAGURA Blood. WOW that stuff is like water-seriously (thinner than brake fluid). I can see why it is recommended. I may stick with it... unless there is something similar viscosity... Maybe I am just desperate enough to try anything at this point....

here's a pic....

well.......: new 167 Magura Master Cylinder, new Zip-Ty Slave Cylinder, new x ring on the 7062 slave piston (cause I had it apart anyway), back bled... and all is well- performed flawlessly on my test track where you cannot ever go strait without hitting a log or logs. Real test will be at the 2-day Baby burr Dual Sport in OHIO next weekend- didn't want to drive 10 hours there just to have the same problem. SHOULD be an awesome weekend.

So moral of the story (OP topic) - there's a good chance cylinder coatings wear before seals do...

Completed the Baby Burr 2 day National dual sport- Excellent Excellent event in Ohio. It was definitely worth the drive from Wisconsin.
My Clutch worked perfect, flawlessly, required no maintenance, bleeding or adding. This area required me to use alot of clutchwork on the 450- Most riders were on 2strokes. Uphill, downhill, switchbacks, creek bottoms, creek crossings- non-stop. Really great experience.

Hello HuskynXJnWI + others,

Thank you for the helpful hydro clutch info contained in this thread. It has been a few more weeks since you completed the Hymec 167+ new slave cly +piston and x rings. Is you clutch still performing great?

I ask because I am considering the purchase of an Oberon slave and Hymec 167 master as my bike with slightly flakey clutch is a 2005 TE with stock slave + uptite x ring and slowly drooling stock master. It's overdue for some Re and RE.

The X ring change was done 3-4 years ago but the bore looked perfect at that time. Like others the master seems to have leaked (slowly) forever.

Thanks,
Bugs