Magura rubber covered kill button

I fitted a single wire red kill switch to my 510, anodized bars, rubber mounted. buzzed the hell out me every time i touched with the motor running... i fitted a separate earth wire on the kill switch clampa(s you suggested in the first post), and no probs.. done as a quick fix never changed it.
the honda button is a good option too..

get a multi meter and test it for your self and you will see.

Anyway i added a second wire because it just wouldnt work with one until i fitted chrome bars but they bend too easy, so i wasnt going to keep those. Got me stumped as to how you guys get 1 wire to work.

I have both Answer Alumalite & Renthal annodized bars and seem to work just fine with a single wire switch.

@Enduro250z

For race prep purposes, you want to install the rubber Magura kill switch:

0. Remove the plug and verify you have spark.
1. Select a twin core wire, with decent outer covering and start at the kill-switch side.
2. Split the twincore, and expose 2" of the blue wire.
3. Carefully thread the Blue core into the body of the kill-switch, through the rubber cover and secure into the screw-down connector. Make SURE it is secure with a tug or two. Make sure the set screw is tight.
4. Shorten the black wire to a managable length, and solder on decent flat lug with a hole big enough for the kill-switch mounting screw to fit through.
5. Carefully sand both sides of the flat lug to give a flat surface.
6. Coat both sides of the flat lug with Computer heat-conducting paste - choose the one with Tungsten chips in it - for better conductivity.
7. Assemble the rest of the kill-switch and tighten the mounting screw.
8. Route the main wire once or twice around the bars as your work towards the steering head. Allow some slack for turning.
9. Allow a loop or two of slack, and zip tie.
10. Terminate the blue wire to the + terminal of your top coil.
11. Terminate the black wire to the earth mounting of youor coil with another flat lug, sanded flat coated in white Computer paste.
12. Double check your wire routing, then zip tie in place.
13. Check you have spark with plug out. If no spark, disconnect all new connections and verify spark. If spark returns, then trace your connectioons to ensure no cross-wiring, and that the Maguro inner spring makes contact with the button ONLY when you depress the switch - not an immediate short.
14. Start and at idle - kill the engine with your new switch.
15. Recheck everything is tight, and when seated the kill-switch is located in the right place - close your eyes and if its not where you expect it - move it.
16. Pack up your tools and cross another item off youor checklist.
17. Grab a beer - unless this is only item 2, and the race is tomorrow - then grab 2 beers and a coffee.


T

@subarumy98

Two beers just gives you a headache.................you need at least 6

Im a bike mechanic so that was pretty straight forward

That was my plan along and is what i did. Looks fairly neat with a loop terminal under the mount screw. Cheers.

Go figure:
After all thjis - it was the Maguro kill-switch that prevented the bike from starting on Sat !

Will strip and check, but after pullibng the blue wire out of the housing - it fired on the first kick.

I suspect its the length of the internal threaded section against the spring that is causing the short.

Add kill-switch BACK onto the race-prep to do list

I put some anodized bars on the 400 and had to run a short wire to the frame to get the killer working again...

I run the after market for the honda type two wire , why take a chance just something else to trouble shoot.

ive had no problems with the magura kills. i pack em with a lil switch grease and clean the paint where they mount. that being said the two wire work well too. for some reason i like all magura controls on my swedes, even the throttles.