Thanks Geeza, great information. that's a really sharp cut off. i should try and aim for that. I'm using the LSU4.2 as well. I think i had the graph backwards!! the ecu was probably very confused with what it was receiving from the wb controller loaded defaults and see how it goes tomorrow. --Update Fantastic. seems to be very smooth. easy to keep a constant 50kph. seems to have lots more low down power. and shitloads up top. happy days.
I still intend to get out and do a run or three for you Roger, first it was too cold, then too rainy and now I am too busy. Such is life. When I finally get it done I will post up and send you the log.
Your Dyna Boost question seems to have been high-jacked - l do wonder as it seems to be able to spoof both AIT& O2 sensor The AF-XIED only spoofs the O2, which leads me to think that the fuelling might be lean in closed loop Or, does the ecu with AF-XIED learn the new parameters My TR has a leaness, pinging at between 3,500 & 4,500 rpm, is this the transition between open/closed loop l wonder ? Given that most of my riding is in that rev range I've purchased the D-Boost, however am still experimenting with the AF-XIED on #8 #9 appeared to be too rich, #7 felt a bit lean The D-Booster is more DIY than the AF-XIED unit
Been running the LC2 now for about 1500k's and it is great. Installation is a bit more involved but you can log the lambda and adjust it to suit you.
My LC2 has also been great. No problems what so ever (knock wood). I owe Roger a the same performance logging run you've done Geeza but life has just gotten in the way. I will get it done but i'll be damn if I know when.
I was favouring the AF-XIED as it appears to work well and I still have not had any feedback on the Dyna-Boost question. However, I looked at the Dyna-Boost again and like the idea of spoofing both Air and O2 sensors to try to fix the lean problem I have similar to yours. I have also purchased the Dyna and will travel back to Philippines early next month, fit it and see how things go.
Due to mixture adaptation, spoofing the temp does nothing. And closed loop is the first place the AF-xied starts to enriched the mixture, immediately. Then the short term trims develop, then finally the long term trims that govern the whole map. The d-boost makes a lot of claims but has no air probe and makes a tap connection to the O2. The tap can't do anything but ground the O2, signaling a lean mixture. The ecu catches on to that quickly. This really looks like a snake oil type product.
From the instructions on the D-Boost, it fits in series with the AIT, On the O2 side it looks as if it might inject a voltage into the signal to the ECU They also market HHO material, which interests me, as I had my Kia running on seawater for many years I'm about to start working with Wayne, so may never get around to experimenting with the D-Boost Bit unkind to call it snake-oil, try before you buy, or criticise
Yes, a little unkind but an IAT device in series and with no temperature probe means it is very limited. And we know the effect of IAT shift is negated. On the second function, you can't inject a voltage to the O2 and do anything meaningful.
My bike visited on the dynamometer today, this is the result Changes what made so far, Gpr single can exhaust, pod mod, Brisk spark plugs and Innovate LC2 (target Afr 13,6)
I'm about to fit Brisk plugs to replace the Nippon Denso iridium, be interesting to see/feel the results
Tokor, nice results. If you put a little load on the rear wheel before the pull, and use a high gear, you may be able to measure good torque all the way to 1500-1800 rpm.
So....all those guys out there with Wukas, Juice and other Booster Plugs who report positive effects are being misguided and those who say that the ECU has not learned over varying timescales (according to the poll held) are in fact wrong ??? We all know that due to mixture adaptation process, spoofing the AIT may not be the permanent fix, but to say it does 'nothing' is not entirely correct. I know my Variable Resistor worked well, not 100% perfect but for a $1 fix it was as good as it gets. I didn't use fancy equipment or a Dynomometer to test the positive effect, I just rode the damn bike which at the end of the day is what we are here to do. This really looks like a snake oil type product.Well being one for experimentation, I am not afraid of snakes and I like getting oily so I went for the 'nasty' and fitted a Dyna-Boost unit yesterday. First of all I removed all Spoofers, Variable Resistor etc and apart from the AIT sensor being shifted over to the air intake on the right side and a set of Brisk Plugs which have been in for about 1000 km, the system is standard. Fitting was easy, 2 wires in series with the AIT Sensor and one spliced to the O2 sensor signal (black) wire, then a +/- ve 2 amp feed from my new Fuzeblock unit took 30 minutes and the hardest part was finding somewhere to place the actual unit. Quite a tight fit but the perfect spot ! Held in place with a double sided pad the unit has nowhere to go and the adjustment screw is barely visible with the side panels refitted. Initial road test results are very good, and I haven't even started to trim it yet. The bike has almost zero flat spots or stumbles like it had in original state prior to any 'spoofing' and it runs really smoothly right through the rev range, however I understand that I have to run quite a bit to iron out any long term trims that the ECU may have put in whilst the Variable Resistor was spoofing the AIT Sensor. Now I am not sure how this 'snake oil' product works but the unit in series with the AIT Sensor obviously does some kind of spoofing, although my dash temp reads normal ambient at around 35C here today, then the feed to the signal wire of the O2 sensor must do something else. All I can say is, so far so good, but before we praise or condemn it, it needs a fair time trial. More results to follow :-)
Thanks for the write up. Your own observations do have value and I don't want to dismiss them. Here's what would be interesting, make some good measurements of what it is doing. If an IAT spoof usually results in a temp display shift, you have to wonder why your device doesn't. I see the device has a potentiometer and a chip. Can you read the chip part number? What instructions do they give for setting the pot? What explanation do they give with the instructions that explains what their O2 mod does? How many connections does it make to the bike. Maybe we can piece together the theory of operation.
