Below is the diagram of the Magnum Dyno-Boost. It appears to have the ability to add resistance in series with the IAT, something you did for a buck. The O2 sensor connections are taps (in parallel). So what might the Dyno-Boost do? It might ground the O2 sensor wire, which the ECU would interpret as lean. However, ECUs got smart to a simple grounded O2 and go into limp mode. A way around that is to ground the O2 lead for, say, half a second but release the ground for a quarter second. That might fool the ECU into struggling to richen the mixture for a higher proportion of time but not so long that you get limp mode. This is a technique used by other devices. The problem is it usually results in VERY rich mixtures. Usually to implement this circuit you design an oscillator, which has no knowledge of engine rpm, throttle opening or engine load--a crude approach. This also explains how one device could work on every gasoline engine.
Thank you for this, l also purchased one to experiment with, the the AF-XIED failed & the ecu went to default limp-home Wayne with his GS911 cleared the error code, inclement weather & my work contracts prevented testing From the instructions it looks as if you keep turning the potentiometer clockwise half or quarter turn at a time till the bike runs as you want it I would surmise, that the dash airvtemp would slowly decrease as the potentiometer is wound down, also changing the O2 mV signal I don't know whether the O2 mV is pulsed or constant I know the Dyna-boost looks a bit "crude", but so does the Pod-mod Please let me know how you go May l suggest 20-50klm spurts, re-adjust, then again, & again Well done, thank you
What if the pot was a "smidt trigger" that not only varied the AIT resistance but also pulsed the O2 senser, with a Ground & a 12 volt supply, the O2 mV could be anything The instructions suggest make small pot changes, with test rides inbetween eac There are about 30 turns from zero to full
Many thanks for the positive reply. Ok I have played a bit with the device today but not been on any decent run to really test it, all I can say is that in traffic the bike is almost 100% good as far as lean stumbles or flat spots are concerned and power delivery appears to be smooth right through too. One thing I do note is it also has virtually no backfire on the overrun and normal engine braking again, whereas if I dialled the VR in too far the engine lost some of its braking and backfired quite a lot. Now as stated, apart from Brisk Plugs and the AIT sensor shifted across the intake which has a K&N filter, the fuel system is standard, but the bike is also de-catted. As far as the pot is concerned I have started to adjust it at half a turn a time and I do note that it now has an effect on the dash temp, ie it is applying a resistance to the AIT signal. Each clockwise turn of the pot results in about 1 degree C of reduction on the display. Currently I have it at approx 5C below ambient, reading 27C but I really didn't notice too much change in the bike as I adjusted it. but a longer run tomorrow will tell me more. As you know this ECU takes time to adjust to inputs. As for the Chip, I have a spare Dyna-Boost unit ready for a friend but unfortunately I cannot read the actual chip number properly, but I might try a bit of photographic trickery tomorrow to see if I can blow up a picture to get it. The connections to the bike are clearly displayed on the website, as are the fitting and operating instructions. Basically it has 6 wires as follows - 2 (Red/Black) are the 12V supply +/- 2 (Purple) are the AIT connection which is in series and no polarity (this to me indicates that a VR is in place there) 2 (Blue) are the O2 sensor wires, there are two for systems that operate with double lambda sensors pre and post CAT, but for the TR650 the instruction is to connect any one to the signal wire (black) of the single lambda sensor cabling. In the blurb they clearly state that when unpowered the unit is inactive and the ECU will receive normal signals. When powered you are advised to adjust the pot by 1/4 turn at a time and test throttle response and power "on the fly" until you get the best results. I have commenced adjustments and all is still good as I go down the dash temp scale. Exact explanation of operation is given in the documentation as follows - " This Fuel Controller tricks the ECU into thinking the intake air is much more cooler, then the ECU will send more fuel for a richer mix, besides if the current model has an Oxygen Sensor it fools O2 sensor voltage to block restrictions developed by the ECU. The module allows you to adjust the Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) " There is a lot of extra (not relevant to my bike) info regarding already modified engines, exhaust headers, decats etc and also there are other claims of more power and better economy etc, but nothing that I would consider to be outrageous or 'pie in the sky' claims. I would like to add that the Post Sales feedback and support from the manufacturer is second to none with a 7 days a week online tech support too. Furthermore they offer a 10 year factory warranty and openly request feedback from purchasers, something which as a Husky owner I and many others very much miss from our manufacturer. So far so good - it appears to work and work quite well.
As promised a picture of the Dyno-Boost unit as fitted. The blue unit is the variable potentiometer and the black unit would appear to be some sort of switching device. Centre is the power indicating LED and there is a Chip to the left of that but it is embedded deep in the resin and is not identifiable. Burning question - Do I open up the spare unit that I have and see if my local Electronics Wizard guy can copy it, my guess is the chip has some form of EPROM and only the manufacturer has the program code ?? My plan is to concentrate on further adjustment to my own bike unit and see if I can make even more progress. I would suggest that the knowledge I gained from using the VR to dial down the temp reading which made my bike run well is going to be the final benchmark ie a reading of around 10C or 20 less than ambient.
So it is looking like a relay to disconnect the Magna when the power is off and a pot in series with the IAT sensor. The IAT sensor shift won't have a permanent effect on a closed loop bike Based on the single wire connection to the O2 and the buried chip, it is still looking like an oscillating shorting of the O2 sensor. If someone added this to a bike with an LC-2 you could measure the AFR effect which might be small or huge. Very hard to say without measurement. A GS-911 test would also let you know if it is throwing error codes.
...and that would prove...what?? Why would anyone add this to a bike with an LC-2 fittted?? Is having 'measurement' in place really so important, surely the individual positive results, however they are achieved, are a better outcome. Across the community of TR650 owners who communicate through this and other forums, I note one thing that nobody has been able to fully explain - No two bikes are the same. Some have terrible lean stumble issues like I had, and the guy on the next bike from the same shop can have none - WHY? This has also been shown by the Booster Plug poll, everyone has differing results to put on the table and trying to measure them or come up with a common answer has already proved near impossible. Similarly our results for other devices all seem to be different in some way or another. With no other information and no reports from any others who have already fitted this device to their bikes I am out on my own at the moment, but I quite like that - experimentation is interesting and I like to share information with others who may be similarly interested. Not having any computer wizardry available, I have continued with my own scientific approach, ie tweeking the device and riding the bike just as the manufacturer suggests. I am now about half way through the adjustment of the pot and the dash reading is approximately 15C below ambient, with the bike running really well. A 90 minute ride in heavy traffic yesterday was actually a pleasure with no stumbles or splutters and good smooth power right through the range. Also my own mobile AFR recorder shows me some pretty good results, ie 'Finger Up Exhaust' comes out clean, no soot, no deposits. I am hoping that this is not just another 'Flash in the Pan' result and the ECU learns its way round the 'spoof' to return the bike to original 'crappyness' but so far all I have to report is good. If it does go the other way, then I might push the envelope a bit further and use the device in series with my Variable Resistor just to mess things up even more - either way, for me it is results I need and computer measurement won't give me them. I am running my bike in quite extreme conditions, fairly short trips in high temperature and humidity with possibly 'suspect' fuel at times. The fact that Joe Soap's bike runs great with an AF-WUKA-PC-LC3-XIED on setting 7 5/8 is interesting but actually it may not apply to me or my bike here. I am willing to try stuff that other guys have had good results with, but I understand that my results may be somewhat different as no two bikes are the same. Before anyone suggests it, I have absolutely no connection with the manufacturer or any other tuning shops and I do not market or make anything from any of my posted bike work or information - in fact I am constantly helping other TR650 owners here in the Philippines in my own time and free of charge. What works for me may not work for others, but if you are willing to try, we might just get somewhere with this dog but the road is a long one.
My thought was that since the manufacturer offers no explanation of what the O2 sensor connection does, someone who fitted a Magna Dyno-Boost would also temporarily fit an LM-2 or LC-2 to see what the thing does and how the ECU responds to it. So you ask what would that prove? It would prove what it does and how it works.
The manufacturer does offer the statement - "......besides if the current model has an Oxygen Sensor it fools O2 sensor voltage to block restrictions developed by the ECU" .......and that appears to be what is going on. I understand that for some it might be beneficial to know exactly how the device achieves that, but as far as I am concerned, having that knowledge wouldn't really change anything, so long as it actually does do what it says on the packet. You can rest assured that if it fails to do as the manufacturer states, then I shall be seeking further help from them as to why and if there is no positive result, then a refund will be required.
Thanks, I think it's worth discussing further. The statement that it blocks restrictions is at best misleading. Although based on observations from Charley's bike, what I see is the Magna Dyno-boost product signaling the ECU that it is lean, which forces the mixture to ramp to full rich, usually meaning add 20% to fueling over 10-20 seconds. Then it "let's go" of the O2 line and the ECU takes 5-10 seconds to head lean. It lets go so that the ECU doesn't think the O2 is stuck. Then it yanks the O2 line lean again and the cycle starts over. That behavior is likely to affect mixture adaptation, possibly affecting running at hot or cold temperatures, possibly affecting starting, or other areas of performance. The good thing you're seeing is the benefit of running a richer mixture. If it suits you that is fine but there are other ways to add controlled richness. So the reason to know what it's doing is to anticipate some of these issues. (Plus I just like to know how things work.) If you put a DVM or scope on the O2 lead at idle you should be able to see if that's what is going on.
I like to know how things work too.....but sometimes the basic info and results are acceptable, especially if they are positive. The theory is interesting and I will try to put a DVM across the O2 signal lead and see if I can get you some more data. So far I am not experiencing any effect on idle or starting and the exhaust shows it is not running overly rich. The fact that I can comfortably ride the bike in traffic and have it pull smoothly in 1st and 2nd gear through 1600 to 3000 rpm without the horrible flat spot, jerkiness or even stalling is the result I have been looking for - even if I have had to pay for it in the end.
My take on it is:- the ecu is probably doing it's job as designed, however was set to fit into emission regs, by adjusting the 2 key inputs, AIT & O2 just a little bit then we should be able to get the bikes running well, each of our bikes is different, mods, countries, dealers, MOSS etc We want something nice & simple - l like the profesional of the AF-XIED, however mine failed me, an 11ohm resistor in series with the AIT actually gave the best dyno results, but would have eventually adapted out, possibly the resistor coupled to the AF-XIED might be an excellent solution The Dyna Boost appears to be a singal unit that does both functions AIT & O2, although it does look a little crude I'm looking forward to experimenting, will get Wayne to GS911 as soon as possible
Further experiments today and I am so far one very happy camper ! My adjustment of the POT on the Dyna-Boost is still at about 50% with the dash reading about 15C below ambient. I have good results on this setting and intend to leave it to see if the ECU can adapt out or not. My theory is to leave myself some further adjustment if things don't work out. Took the bike out at 11 am through 40 minutes of heavy traffic in stifling heat (45+C) and not one splutter or stumble. Then off up the mountain road - Cebu Trans Central Highway (Cebu City to Balamban), steep and twisty up and up then steeply down and up some more, mostly 2nd and 3rd gear with the occasional drop to 1st for very slow trucks struggling up the hills and max speed of around 80 Kmh (50 mph) on the straight parts. In other words, lots of throttle and gear work to give the chip some exercise, plus some cooler air to see if it makes a difference. Previously this had been a very difficult road to ride as I considered the Strada plain dangerous when it stumbled so much on the slow turns or even stalled on the downhill closed throttle changes into bends. With the VR fitted and dialled to 20C less than ambient the bike ran well with no stalls but had much less engine braking and backfired a lot on the overruns. It was actually quite scary as I could never rely on the engine braking being constant when diving into the very tight downhill bends. Plus as we got up into the cooler air I had to dial the VR back towards normal in order to maintain the dash reading around 10C or the engine would 'run away' a little too much. Today with the Dyna-Boost unit it was a totally different story....a very enjoyable ride, loads of slow speed chugging going up the hills and out of the bends with the engine pulling smoothly right up through the 1600 to 4/5000 range in all the gears and no hit of a flat spot or stumble. Reliable and fairly consistent engine braking into the bends with hardly any backfire on the overrun too. Up in the high cooler sections with the dash reading around 15C the bike ran like a dream and not a hint of flat spot or stumble all the way and I didn't need to make any adjustments either. One thing I did notice on the very long downhill closed throttle sections is that there appears to be a cyclic action on the engine braking, which is definitely something new. For about the first 10 seconds of closed throttle the engine braking is good and as I would consider quite normal, then for about 3 seconds it eases off slightly and the bike speeds up a little, then it shuts back down to normal again. This goes on a cycle of about 10 and 3 all the way down the long hills. Possible evidence of Roger's theory of the chip having a pulsed action on the O2 sensor signal, but unfortunately I have not yet been able to source a DVM to get some decent readings. After it cooled down the Exhaust (Finger) check back home, also after 30 mins in the traffic reveals zero deposits - not rich or lean, just perfect The tests continue, status is - Original 2013 ECU mapping never been MOSS'd, fuel Petron Blaze 100 RON with zero ethanol, Brisk AOR10LGS plugs, K&N Airfilter, standard (except for De-Cat) exhausts, Cannisterectomy and AIT sensor sitting in the Air Intake on the right side beak. Dyna-Boost chip at 50% adjustment. Next plan is to let the bike run some more at the same chip setting and see if it still goes well, especially in the heat here. One idea I have is to pull the fuse on the Dyna-Boost chip and see how the bike runs and how long it takes to revert back to the stalling dog, but that is not something I really need to do just yet. I have a friend here with a very bad stumbling Terra and plan to fit the Dyna-Boost to his bike and see if it instantly cures it - for me that would be the icing on the cake !!
I think what you're seeing is the beneficial effect of running full rich, which might be in the 12-13:1 range. Very rich, but still functional. Most bike types I've worked on in the BMW line (and Steve on Harleys) respond quite well with slightly to fairly rich mixtures. Think of the Dyno-Boost as a device which continuously tells the ECU that the mixture is too lean, but every once in a while says too rich so that the ECU thinks things are working. So as TRZ_Charlie and many others have found out, the Terra 650 likes more fuel. If you were to add an LC-2, which is about the same money as the Dyno-Boost, you would be able to program how rich you wanted the mixture and see a log of the results, so you wouldn't be experimenting in the blind. We should get charlie to try 12.9:1 and see how the Terra does with 12% extra fuel. Charlie?
Am still out on the FPSO, not back in Sydney till end of next week, hopefully it'll be waiting for me, then fit over the weekend - fingers-crossed
I agree about the experimenting blind - if l'd know how "interesting" this Terra "tuning" was going to be right from the start, l'd have invested in far more elaborate testing equipment For thousands of kilometres the Booster Plug had done it's job well, the Pod-Mod & some really hot Sydney weather, changed all that Interestingly, the simpest "spoof" was an 11ohm resister in series with the AIT Which l remove prior to fitting the AF-XIED However, fearing adaption l fitted the AF-XIED, that's when we started to get that dramatic lean-out between 3,500-4,500 rpm with "pinging" As you know l continued to "test" #7, then #8, #9 when the unit failled, prior to the GS911 test I've return the defective unit, be interesting to see what they find
I contacted Magnum for more clarification, they state that the O2 sensor is not grounded, the pot does add a small resistance in series with the AIT, when asked whether the mV signal to the O2 sensor was constant or pulsed, they declined to answer I know the unit looks a bit "crude" compared with the AF-XIED, & it does require individual setting by the rider, it might actually be a viable option Have you taken the opportunity to visit their web-site & seen what they do, besides the D-Boost unit?
Interesting stuff - I have had a quick play around with a Digital Volt Meter across the O2 sensor mostly at tickover but I didn't have enough time to do a decent study. The Pot definitely adds a resistance in series with the AIT sensor and I can concur that the O2 sensor is not grounded when the Dyna-Boost is operating. With the Dyna-Boost switched off the readings appear to be pulsed from about 100 to 700 mV and jump around all over the place. With the Dyna-Boost operating the readings are still pulsed but seem and seem to jump from 150 to 900 Mv, possibly a slightly higher range. I couldn't fully confirm the figures and realise that a recording oscilloscope would be much better to do this with. I agree that the unit may look slightly crude but it is water resistant, simple to fit and at the moment it seems to work pretty well. I paid the regular $169 for mine, but based upon my positive results, a guy here in Philippines has managed to arrange a wholesale deal from Magnum and got them for around $120 which is a very reasonable deal. I am currently away from the bike for a few weeks but will have some further tweeking in July.
Thanks for this Mark I surmise that the pot being a variable resistor serves 2 purposes, one is a resistor in series with the AIT, the second is as the resistor in a Smidt trigger ( electronic timing device) this actually pulses a mV signal into the O2 signal wire The higher mV O2 signal changing the Lambda from 1.0 down to "whatever", proportional to the AIT "spoof" I'd be tempted to only lower the AIT as measured on the Dash by only 5degC, then progress from ther
