Nope - I'm hauling Tom's new 450 a lot of times. I could see owning one someday though...with a Globetrottin rack and Wolfman bags... . Got a buddy w/ a 500 that's already been professionally lowered - he'll get bored w/ it sooner or later (or hurt his 60yrold ass again). Problem is, I couldn't occasionally take gf w/ me and not sure I want to deal w/ changing oil every 1000miles. Is Dustin going to keep the 630? .
So far it has become his backroad pavement hooligan bike in sm trim. I was impressed with the 500 exc suspension right out of the box and it did not seem too much taller than the 630 with the saddle upgrade. We ran some straight line and there wasn't much difference in soft dirt till we hit 70 mph where the 500 would creep away by 3 bike lengths up to mid 80s.
Actually saw that myself the other day. I am old school and just strap her down like I have for 35 years, never had an issue.
Can he tell me where that spacer is in the TE-630 fork and the spring length of the 300mm and 270mm forks? It must be the best kept secret about the 630 front forks.
Thinking out loud here... Looks to me like #25 is the spacer. Based on how this appears to go together, I think 630 forks may be the same exact length as a 610, just less travel. This could be easily checked and it makes sense if the rear shocks are the same (bike still sits the same). For BMW, reducing travel increased road stability to "their" standards. I'd bet the 610/630 use the same springs also. But I've been wrong before .
Bob, Thanks for posting the diagrams. I've been reviewing them prior to starting this thread and they have created the confusion for me. I'm sure item #25 is the preload spacer for the fork spring which would provide the fork static and race sag. Based on my research the spacer for reduced travel should be located on the dampener (pumping element rod #32). This would limit full extension of the dampener by 30 mm within the shock tube and create overall a lowered fork. I'm wondering if the fork overhaul pages you posted from the manual are actually for the TE610 full travel fork since the lowering spacer is no where to be found?? Maybe Husqvarna did not provide updated fork specs in the TE630 shop manual?? My assumption is that if there is a 30mm spacer on the dampener that is limiting fork extension then removing it will allow another 30 mm of extension. To compensate, an additional 30 mm of spacer preload would have to be added to the existing preload spacer and spring (assuming the springs are identical in length). Make sense? By lowering the front forks, the geometry of the 630 would change providing improved road turning capability but sacrificing off road handling with more propensity to washout (knifing of the front tire) in soft or muddy conditions. This would also create some wobble in the front end at speed on the road unless you induce additional rear sag to compensate which many experienced upon purchase of the bike. (edit.. this would be known as "stinkbug" stance on a moto X bike)
While adding the compression clickers and gaining 1" inch of the suspension would be a nice upgrade it doesn't come cheap. I would be interested in above thoughts of the cheaper remedy of simply removing spacer and swapping springs to gain 1" of ground clearance. That is the biggest complaint I have for my TE off road, too little ground clearance. Dont forget though then you'll need to lenghten your kickstand afterwards. _
Yep...I'm in over my head here... I know you've seen this Mike, they're claiming the spacer is shown at the bottom of the 5th picture. http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=13562122&postcount=8 Could it just be the damper rod is 30mm shorter? .
You are correct Bob. That is also what I viewed to draw the conclusion of where the spacer is located. The odd part is that the manual does not identify the spacer. Since a few have had the so called spacer removed and obtained full travel it would lead me to believe there is a spacer and the manual has the old te610 fork reference ?? Dustin still has a leaking fork seal on his 630 so we may pull it apart and do an exploritory search to find the elusive lowering spacer. It is puzzling to say the least. I question also spring lengths which is an uncertainty.
One aftermarket supplier of springs has the 630 and 610 spring listed as the same length,different rates. I no longer access to a quick reference of all husky part no. The part no i would like to check would be the damper tube,could be a different length,as bob mentioned.
On Halls website the complete dampener elements and all internals have a different part number for the TE from the 2009 610 vs 2011 630. However for the SM variant, the part numbers are identical from 610 to 630. The 610 has all parts that make up the dampener available by individual part number but the 630 only lists the entire dampener available which includes all internal components (rod, housing, rebound valving, spring guide..ect) I do not see a spacer that appears different than the 610 on the 630 component view breakdown. http://www.halls-cycles.com/images/PDF/Husqvarna .PDFs/2011/TE-SM 630 MY11.pdf http://www.halls-cycles.com/images/PDF/Husqvarna .PDFs/2008/2008_Husq_SOHC_parts_Catalogo.pdf
This video may come in handy for those that venture into the Marzocchi shiver forks http://www.scottysdirtbikespares.com/workshop-help/gas-gas-fork-service.html
Need someone with a TE 610 fork to take these measurements: 1- Support bike with center stand so that front wheel is off the ground.Mmeasure from the point in the first picture to the bottom of the seal cover as shown in the second picture. Third pic shows result. 630 fork measures 270mm (missing that extra 30 mm) 2 - measure from same point on bottom of fork to the top of the fork cap where it protrudes out of the triple clamp. 630 fork measurement is 860 mm
The gold valves should work with or without the adjusters. IMO a good revalve is just as good as gold valves. However, gold valves do come with access to racetech's shim stack database, so that can be a benefit. I think you can get 90% of the improvement for 5% of the cost by just revalving yourself. Fast1, I will try to take those measurements on my 610 after work this afternoon. I don't know about the differences between the forks. If you take yours apart, I have notes on all the shim stacks from my 610, so we could see if yours are different. If there is a 30mm travel spacer inside your forks, it would be very obvious, if you take them apart. It would be inside the cartridge above the midvalve, most likely. If you want to compare springs and preload spacers, I could open on my of forks up to measure them, but I am not sure how valuable that information really is.
Thanks Kyle for the response. When I procured my compression adjusters they came fitted with the factory 610 compression shim stack which appeared identical to compression shim stack fitted on my 630. In fact ,I installed the adjusters with the 610 compression shim stack. Remember I'm a novice with regard to shim stacks. I spoke to Jay at Halls and he indicated that if there is not a lowering spacer that most likely Marzocchi fitted a shorter dampener rod in the 630 build spec. He did say however, that if this is the case, a longer dampener rod could be procured and installed. I then asked about additional pre-load to compensate for either the spacer removal or longer dampener and he indicated that it was not uncommon to use up to a 75mm pre-load sleeve in the fork. From what I remember when I had mine apart for a fluid change and to add compression adjusters was that the fork had about a 30 mm or so pre-load spacer stock.
My recollection is that the preload spacers in my forks are quite long, so it would be very possible that they just run shorter ones in the shorter forks. Shorter damping rods would make sense. I was doubtful that they would just put a spacer inside a production-volume assembly. On a more general note, what's your issue with the forks? Some shim changes might help. The reduced travel is a bit frustrating but shouldn't be that big of a deal, I don't regularly use the last inch or so of my travel. I run mine slid up pretty far in the triples too (for quicker steering). I'll try to measure those forks when I get home, if I remember!
I've been hauling bikes for 10 years. Never put any sort of block under my front tire, never a problem. Pushing down the fork springs a little is what gives me the tension to hold the bike in place.
