Marzocchi fork bleed @ dirtbike magazine

I need some help here. I have the cartride out. I am trying to remove the plug (19mm red bolt. I am holding the top cap with spanners but the 19mm bolt does not seem to be coming out. It remains very hard to turn and does not get any looser. I have given it a few full turns and it does not look like it has come up at all. Am I doing something wrong?

That cap, which is the compression valve, just sits in the top part of the inner chamber so when you screw it, the chamber might need to be held ... can't remember the exact procedure ;( but you are looking right at it I'm sure .... I do think I loosen the cap while it was on the bike though ... This should not really matter though ...

So just to be clear - the red compression cap does NOT screw into the top cap? It screws into threads that are in the inner chamber?

I tried to break it loose while it was on the bike. The whole top cap just broke free instead. I do not have the special tool to hold the chamber so I guess I can't work on these. I'll probably have to send them to a pro or just live with them. Too bad because the article made them look easy to work with.

Correct.

The special too required is an electric impact...

I use this one, every time I touch the bike it is used for dis assembly.

You will thank yourself for buying one.



Later,

You can work on them ... Once is all it takes ...

A spanner tool will work also... most parts stores have them ....

I went to schucks auto and found a 'Y' looking device that is used for removing the pulleys off air conditioners ... It has 2 pins that can be adjusted to fit the holes in the gold cap ... it just looks fancy but its a piece of cake

If you have no tool, just slide the tube down in the triple clamp till only the top is showing and tighten it slightly .... this will hold the tube and the cap should come off then ....

Well I got them bled but then did something really stupid. I went to adjust the preload and I took the spring clip off. I guess I was just supposed to slide it up and down because now it is over stretched. But I did notice that the inside of the compression cup tapers down over the clip. Although mine is a bit loose I gave it a push with a small screwdriver and got the cup to fit fully over it as it should. As long as the cup is wrapping it tight I think it will never be a problem. I have about 8mm of preload so it seems like it should stay in place. But I am not positive that under some fast hits the spring never leaves the preload cup and lets it float for a moment? If this is possible the clip might not be in good enough to hold. Any expert opinion on this? I hope this makes sense.


As far as the bleed goes I would like to add some tips I learned. Do not try to loosen the red bolts with the tripple crown loose. My top 19mm bolts were very tight so if you do not have an impact wrench I suggest you slide the fork flush with the crown then tighten the clamp. This will hold the top cap in place. I had to use a rubber mallet and smack the wrench a few times quickly to break it loose.

The directions say to use a 1 and 1/2 inch pvc pipe. A 1 and 1/4 is actually the perfect size.

The directions say to hand tighten the red cap before checking for air. I had to use a wrench and run them all the way down or else as I compressed the cartride oil would fly out. Keep an eye on the o-ring while doing this as it likes to pop out.


Thanks for all the tips in this thread.

What article might that be?
I'm tearing down the Zokes on the '06 TE450 and can use as much info as possible.

As it reads in the Shiver 50 manual for bleeding -
1. Remove the protection cap (8).
2. Using a small pin punch, press on the air valve (9) and
completely discharge the internal pressure from the leg.
3. Refit the protection cap (8).

So I unscrew the protection cap and proceed to put in a small rod to act as a pin punch. There was zero resistance. Basically, the hole just opens in to the fork tube. Am I missing something, because there was not a valve in either tube.

Can the Shiver manual (I used the one Coffee posted in this thread) be wrong for my forks? 2006 TE450

Turns out all the shops have the wrong part numbers for the 2006 TE450 forks seals and dust seals. My forks are 50mm (the TE450/510) were revalved to the 50mm this year. Confirmed it by measuring my fork tubes and I have a Husky pamphlet that states the same. F.Y.I., when ordering parts for this year, they are listed as 45mm.

Husky pamphlet
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g120/footbeamer/sc002e8462.jpg

After re-reading this post a few times and looking at videos I'm still confused...I have a stock 08 TE 250 suspension, so I understand I have the 50mm Open Chamber Shivers, but none of this info is accurate for them?? All I want to do is change the fork oil (which is still factory after 3,000+ miles) but fear I don't have the necessary info in this or any other post. Can someone point me to the correct info, or isn't it available???

No bleeding is needed for the open chamber forks ... U can vary the oil amounts to get a slightly different feel to the forks but I don't have a pointer to any of the steps for these forks ...

That is not quite correct, the open chamber forks still need the cartridge bled. It is just a different process.

Later,

really? .. sorry about the bad info ... I've never saw anything on that process ...

'zakly what I was referring to....I've never seen any info on how to do it and was hoping one of our Cafe Husky gurus could shed some light.

I'm feeling a little gun-shy but the thread below is on a TE 310 2010 ... it has some sort of open chamber Marzocchi forks ... It has a good pic show on breaking down the forks ....


http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/50mm-zokes-issues-advice-pls.15614

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glG3gUjxjEU

Yep here is a video explaining it for the open chamber forks.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C9ICr-DOmdk

Later,

That is exactly what I was looking for - thank you so much. From all the reading it seems factory has 7w oil in there, and since I ride rocks and am not a MXer with lots of air-time, I'm planning on dropping down to 5w....any particular brand of oil anyone can recommend?

Nice one, been looking for the same also.

Well go figure...after all this whining about not having any info to change the oil in my factory 08 forks with over 3,500 miles on them, I pull the trigger on a WER rebuild. My game plan was to keep them stock until the seals begin leaking and then give them to Drew to work his magic on them. About a year ago the one started weeping so I did the old "slide the acetate up the fork leg under the seal to get the dirt out" trick and it took care of the problem (drat). I fully planned on just changing the oil like discussed above until they start leaking again, but after talking to Drew on the phone yesterday, I pulled the forks, put them into an old gun hard-case and dropped them off at the UPS store. If I hadn't already had the back shock seal and oil replaced in 09, I would have sent that along too to get the set matched for me. That'll have to wait until it starts leaking. (hurry up and leak already)

The only down-side to this is that I just installed my very first damper - Motosportz - and now the fork-job without a damper test, so I won't know which variable made the biggest change...needless to say I'm very excited for spring riding