Mick's troublesome TE510

Cheers rob. Seems like a lot, but it really hasn't been too much trouble to me. A few spanners turned and they all come good in the end. All in all it's been pretty good. Has never left me stranded on the side of a trail, and it's all worth the effort when you give the wrist a flick.
I used to own Mazda Rotaries, so I'm used to turning spanners on shitboxes for a good time :P

Wondering if this slave breaking is a common occurrence on these?

I've read something about never pulling the clutch lever with the slave out, you'll break something. Can't remember the exact advice or what breaks but perhaps the previous owner did just that and cracked it?

I'm guessing that's it eh.

Hello mick,I have an 07 TE510(bought new) and recently had the same symptoms of clutch failure as you.I replaced a rubber o ring in the master cylinder and it fixed the 'limp' clutch lever when hot.
Have you had any problems with excessive engine stalling at low revs when the bike is hot.
Mine is the last of the carby models.Where in Oz are you?
Martin
Wollongong ,NSW

Hey Martin,
The O ring looked ok, the crack the entire way around the slave cylinder was what was causing the issue. All replaced now. I've currently got a fracture in my spine, so I won't be able to load it up and see if everything is working as it should. I did a lap around the block and it felt as good as new. I chose mine as it was the last of the carbed models and preferred it to EFI. I'd hate to be stranded due to a dud sensor or injector and be unable to fix it on the side of the track. I'm from Brissie. Much good riding in the gong?

Had a little brap on a friends 06 TE, and the suspension setup felt miles different to mine. Last time I was in the shop the mechanic mentioned that the rear was far too low for my height, and when riding it feels remarkably soft. I'm guessing I need to change the rear spring as i'ts wound down pretty far, but have no idea where to start as I've not done dirtbike suspension for some time. I read the thread in tech, but am still a little confused. I'm around 95KG (plus gear) 6ft2, can anyone push me in the right direction as to what spring I should be using?
Front forks feel ok, nice and firm. Haven't opened them, running the clickers dead centre.

Weather pending I'm going to try head over to stradbroke island this weekend. Anyone got any recommendations for sand riding?

Had her out again. Worked as it should, but I struggled on the hills because of the high gearing. 510 owners, what tooth front and rear sprockets do you run, and what's your top speed in first? I'm hitting 71kmph in first and my hillclimbing is suffering because of it. a second set of sprockets and a chain is next on the list for hilly weekends, and I'll keep the current ones for beach and higher speed rallying.

Anyone? It's got a 48t rear and a 15t front.

f--k it. I'll throw a 12t front at it and when it (quickly) chews the buggery out of it I'll look into it again. Shame though as where I ride you can be doing technical first gear hills, then 150 + on gravel or sand 10 mins later.

Wow. Is it generally difficult to get tech info on here or am I just not interesting enough because it's got a carby?

Hey mate, I will take mine for a lash this afternoon to see what speed I get in first, but 71 seems high?? I have a '10 TE510 but will check sprockets on mine for reference sake.

I know in 6th, at 80km/h im doing around 5200 ish rpm (will check again) and running factory sprockets.

That would be great thanks mate!

Sorry mate didnt get a chance yesterday to full ream it out in 1st as I was pretty rushed. But I know that in 6th, 80km/h at approximately 5050 to 5150 rpm. Will check teeth on lunch.

Just picked my bike up from the shop so havnt had a chance to look as yet

But its stock so I beleive that it will be sporting 13-47 sprockets.

And if my maths is correct (most likely not - bear with me):

1st gear ratio = 2.000
6th gear ratio = 0.814

So at 80km/h im doing around 5100rpm in 6th. Through the box that equates to 6265 output. (Drive through sprockets etc not included as constant in each case)
So, at 10,500rpm redline in 1st, at 2.000 ratio = 5250 output. 5250 is 84% of 6265 so 84% of 80km/h is about 67km/h so if everything is correct then I would say that 70km/h is pretty close.
If im wrong someone pull me up - it could be way off.

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

Have you got the clutch sorted yet?

As for gearing, throw a 14 tooth on the front and leave the rear. That will lead you in the right direction with minimal costs.

Cheers for the gearing commander link Neesmo, will be a great help.

The Husky has been on the backburner for some time, I've been travelling the countryside with work and all my spare time has been going in to planning reno's and working on the speed triple.

JR - I had replaced the clutch slave a while ago. I'm going to throw the smallest goddamn front sprocket I can find and see how it goes. Wouldn't mind having a set of sprockets and a chain for high speed, and another set of tight hilly rides as it can be vastly different each weekend.

That's what I run for dual sporting (mostly pavement and easy trails).
For single track I'm currently running 12\48, 13\48 would be better I think.

If you can, try to find a combination of sprocket that uses a larger front sprocket. I know its not always possible but if the chain doesnt have to wrap around a small 12t sprocket it should help it live longer. The larger the diameter sprocket that the chain is wrapping around, the less the chain has to move so the less it wears. I seemed to hear this a lot when I've asked various sprocket questions.

So if you rotate between a 12/48(4:1 drive ratio) gearing combo and a 13/48(3.69:1), Try out a 13/52(4:1) and 14/52(3.71:1) sprocket combo.

I grabbed a 12 today to try it out, see how it goes, it's a band aid solution but luckily enough chains and sprockets are cheap and I can do some trial and error.

The 15 looked like it was too big, had hit the plastic guard that sits behind the sprocket.