Im picking up my Strada this afternoon or tomorrow morning. I've been pressuring the salesperson with the "Stutter Issue" and fix before I picked it up. I've used the exact verbage used in the beginning of this thread and as posted by Bill to discribe how I want this issued resolved before I make the 3 hour drive to pick it up. Keep in mind, I'm speaking with a new salesperson, not the tech. Today the sales person confirmed that I have nothing to worry about because the ECU was re-flashed with an update that was released in February of this year. He said he drove it for 14 miles and there are no issues at all. Bill describes the proceedure as an adjustment or (reset) to the "idle actuator". My questions is; did anyone hear of this Feb Update (reflash) and does it cure the problem? Does it cover the idle actuator or does that have to be re-set separately (in addition to this update)? I can't find anybody that mentioned a February update in either Moss Tool thread.
I have had the moss update and the bike runs fine after its warm. You must let it run for a minute or so at least. That being said the idle (low speed ) mix is lean. I am going to use the ADV rider version of the Boostaplug. Less money and 2 settings. There are conditions in clod weather and start up where the bike will just flame out....That can get you dead.....$90 bucks is not worth the chance....M2C
Just MOSSED a 2001 BMW F650GS that we took in trade on the ole moss tool ,made it idle and take throttle alot better,makes me feel better knowing that the tool works for both brands excellent.
I usually do it just in the morning. I also gear up, kick the tires, etc, but sometimes I just want to hop on and go, especially at 5:00 am when everyone else is snoozing.
Had my Terra Moss-tooled yesterday. It took two tries. The first made it worse, the second made it better. Not a lot better, but it wasn't real bad to begin with. Apparently the techs did more extensive reprogramming on the second round. I didn't realize they had options.
Eurosport was the place. Now I will say that in the last couple of days I've had a few minor stutters, but still, it's better than it was.
New owner here, have 600 miles now, here's my experience... Bike stalled on test ride with a truck behind me...nice. Stalled on throttle close about 5 times total in the first 110 miles, often as I was splitting cars up to the front...nice again. Had local BMW dealer "reprogram the control unit", now it hasn't stalled on throttle close but a few times on opening the throttle like when starting off from a red light. So after the reprogram the symptoms changed a bit & the overall situation seems to have improved but the issue was NOT eliminated (for me of course). The bike suffers, as so many others do, from an overly lean A/F mixture in the open loop map & there is little doubt the bike will be fixed with one of several devices available that spoof the ecu into running a richer mixture in that envelope. Anyone reading this that's new & doesn't understand, don't be put off, these devices are inexpensive (cost $70) & easily attach / plugs into existing connectors on the bike. Google "tr650 the juice" & scroll halfway down the page for a source of one of these spoof devices. To the average user it appears as cables with connectors & a sensing probe. Plug it in & on bikes that have this problem it will improve or eliminate it. It's not snake oil. The device consists of a negative temperature coefficient (NTC) thermistor/sensor & a resistor (in parallel) then those are plugged into the bike which places the "new" circuit in series with the existing IAT (intake air thermistor). The simple electrical arraignment is designed to increase resistance along the non-linear temperature curve of the OEM's IAT. The bikes ECU will always think it's 36F cooler than it really is thereby running a 6% richer mixture (in the open loop map) than it otherwise would. The minor downside is the dash display for ambient temperature will show 36F cooler than it actually is (typical for the TR650, other bikes may use a separate thermistor for dash display). The upside is positive owner feedback & temp display is probably the least useful window, most people will want to monitor fuel use, miles or time. Great bike & value for the money, I didn't know how good it is until I lived with it a while, even with the lean mixture. UPDATE: Did THE ERUPTION mod for $20, bike runs fine now.
Picked up the bike yesterday. It hasn't been mosssed. I talked to the tech and he says here is no "update" the tool just resets the comp so it can go through the startup mode again. He said as long as you start the bike and let it idle for 10 minutes and don't touch it it doesn't need anything from the miss tool. I was pissed because I wanted them to do it before I got there. Now I have to get moving. He was very certain that that the bike ran great. Now I'll be looking for a moss tool in Texas. Bike idles rough and is shy around 2k to 2.6k. 80 miles on it so far and no stalls but a few close.
Don't worry too much. I think the tech told you right. I got the exact same information when I bought mine and I haven't had any serious problems. The rough idle and such, I think, are "normal" and using a MOSS tool is unlikely to change it. From what I've seen, get a Wuka or similar if you wish to change the behavior.
Look through some of the Booster and WUKA threads... All report very good results on bikes that have been MOSSED as well as those that have not.. Mine was MOSSED but never ran right.. Got a WUKA which was a huge improvement.. Probably not 100% fixed but a huge, and cheap improvement.. Even if is temporary, was worth the $80...
Damn. My strada idles at 1500rpm and each time i rev it slightly at a red light with the clutch in and let go, it drops slightly below 1500 and feels like it's going to die (and it does once every 10-20 miles or so.)
Does he say this should be done on every start or the 10 min thing does some form of general reset? I know of some other bikes (I think KTM LC8's) that a long idle thing does some kind of reset.
The 10 minutes was for very first initial startup only when the bike is brand new to probably allow the computer to record some initial startup values.
So if you let the bike idle 10 mins now it does not do any type of reset? I have read here about a 3 min idle making a difference. I know mine sits at idle for about 3-5 mins every morning due to my routine. In the evening coming home from work it only idles maybe a min or 2 before I get on. I never have any issues in the morning, but I can get a bit of a hiccup every once in a while coming off the throttle and then back on in the evening. It seems that I don’t experience the hiccup if I let it idle for a while in the evenings, but honestly it’s really kind of random so I am not sure.
I don't know. Hiccups and such are as you said, random enough that I can't keep track of correlations with startup idle time.
I finally had the first service done last weekend with the MOSS update. The bike definitely runs better as I had a 100+/- ride back home from the dealership and it certainly seems better off of idle now.
MOSS definitely helped mine too but wasn't the final answer. After I installed the Wuka I've been a much, much happier rider. Unbelievably better down low and off idle.
