The pictures in the previous post give a pretty good view of my new Mosko Moto panniers with the aux Molle pouches. You can check out their website here at http://www.moskomoto.com/home.html for more info on their products. I have the Country 35L panniers mounted on Touratech racks. What I like about these panniers is with the mounting system I could place the panniers forward and low keeping the bike from being too top heavy. I had 34 lbs of camping gear in the right pannier and my clothes, electronics, bathroom pack, kitchen pack, etc. weighing 30 lbs in the left pannier. In the molle pouches I had 2 1 litter MSR bottles for fuel in one pouch and in the other pouch I had 1 more MSR bottle for fuel plus one marked "Rum" plus my tire irons and bead breaker. All I carried in my waterproof "backback" tailbag was a fleece jacket, towel, snacks and a couple bottles of emerg. water. Thru rain, axel deep "vado" water crossings and dust my gear stayed dry and clean. A big bonus with the mounting system is all it took was a simple twist of the locking turnbuckle and the panniers lift right off the racks. And no straps to deal with. For comparison here's a picture of my setup from last year when I did my Continental Divide ride with the Ortleib panniers and Wolfman tailbag.
Loreto Next stop is Loreto, which was the 1st Mission and capital of the Californias. It has many nice hotels and restaurants and a very nice hostel called Hostal Casas Loreto. The owner, Abel is a great host and can direct you to almost any services you may need. From laundry, to barbers, to dental work, to llanteras, to super marcados, he was most helpful. Abel's hostel has single and double rooms with a private shower and restroom and a community kitchen for guests use for about $40 US. I ended up staying here for 3 days using Loreto as a base while I made several day trips around the area. And checkout the secure parking, it can't get more secure than this. As a rule I would prefer this kind of security or parking right outside my motel room but I would not have been comfortable parking the bike out on the street away from my room while in Mexico. By the third day there were 3 of us with motorcycles in the lobby.
Loreto On day 2 at Loreto I did a side trip out to a fishing village named Agua Verde. I was riding along on this back road and I started hearing this clicking sound, thinking something was loose I stopped but couldn't find anything wrong. So I continued on but the clicking sound was still there. So I stopped again and this time I saw the problem. I had a big honking framing nail sticking out of the rear tire which was hitting the swing arm . Of course when I pulled it out there was a hissing sound. Damn, 40 miles back to Loreto and 20 miles to Agua Verde, which wouldn't have had a llantera shop anyway. Shade was non-existent except for the cactus which are pretty skinny and the short shrubs didn't offer much. But I did have my tubes, air pump and tire irons. Here I would like to point out the benefit of the crash bar bags. When camping or at motels I of course unload the panniers, etc. but I always leave the crash bar bags on and in them I carry front and rear tubes, elect air pump, patches, my tool roll, my shorty tire irons, jumper cables, WD-40 and chain oil. That way on a side trip like this or when running around town I can make repairs if needed. On a day like this if I didn't have my stuff I could have been in deep doodoo. I did have my CamelBak so I had water but it would have been a long hike out.
As you've noticed I'm traveling alone. Why, it's a question my sons and many friends asked me when I was making plans for this adventure ride in Baja Mexico. They worried that it could be dangerous, there are bandidos you know, or that I could have an accident or get hurt or have bike problems, there was a whole list of reasons I shouldn't do this alone or at all. Last year I rode the Continental Divide with a good friend and enjoyed sharing that adventure with him very much. But many times we would see sites or be in an area that would have been nice to slow down and spend more time in. For this trip I wanted to have that luxury, to be able stop when and where I wanted or to push on if I and only I chose to. I'm 68 years old, retired and my only scheduled end date was to be back in Yuma in time to fly home to Seattle, in time to spend the Holidays with my family. Does it get lonely traveling by oneself? Sure, at times, but on this trip I met so many other travelers on motorcycles, bicycles, 4x4's and hikers. Michael from Germany, Ryan and Felix on bicycles (they are the ultimate adventures), Alan from the Pacific NW, Palo (I will never be able to properly pronounce his first name) from Spain who is 3 years into his travels, plus many many more. There were many of us doing our thing/adventure. Several of them were in the progress of traveling south from Alaska to Argentina and further as with Palo. My little trip to the tip of Baja paled in comparison. I had many good times visiting with them and sharing our dreams often over cold cervezas or dinner. I want to share a comment written by Rafael, an 18 year old youngster from California riding a Honda C70 Super Cub from Calif. to New York in 2011. He says a lot about those of us who do things like this. You can read his ride report on ADVRider here - http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=716516 I stopped to help a old man on a bicycle, he was pushing his bike and his trailer full of... items up a hill. "Are you ok sir?" "Yeah I'm fine, where you from?" "California heading to New York" "Lancaster, Pennsylvania I'm from Amish country" "Cool, sorry sir but I have to go" "Have a safe trip!" "You too sir!" I wanted to stay and chat but talking on the side of a small highway filled with truckers was never a good idea. I did realize, however, that there were much more interesting and determined people out here than me. There must be thousands of adventurers in the United State alone, biking, walking, hiking, segwaying, or any other mode of transportation thinkable. I wanted to do them all. Hitchhiking predominately. One day. Still I can't help but think of all the untold stories out there, all the fights, the test of wills, and the determination of the people involved. Nothing was impossible. Everything imaginable was worth trying. This is freedom, the lack of a mental barrier, the taste for adventure. Ignorance is heading off without knowing the dangers involved. Stupidity is trying something without knowing what the chance of death is. Bravery is going into something knowing if you die its your own fault. Adventure is a self determined mix of all of thee above. Whether you ride, bike, walk, or hitchhike its the same. If you meet any kind of adventurer on the road you understand each other to an extent.
Awesome trip...I'm glad you can do this. Have fun and keep posting. I did the same trip but in my truck many years ago. be safe
Thanks Dave, I still have La Paz, Los Barriles, San Jose and Cabo San Lucas before I reach the tip of Baja. Then Todo Santos, Santa Rosalia and San Ignacio on the way back north. It is a great place to explore by motorcycle, truck or any other means. It's a very different culture with friendly helpful people.
La Paz is a pretty good size and modern town/city as far as Mexico standards go. It has several "moto" shops including what they call the Big Motorcycle store. I was able to purchase a new rear tube there, the way things were going flat-wise I figured it was the prudent thing to do. They also had a large selection of tires and what looked like a decent repair shop. Something to remember if you are ever down this way. When I was making plans for my trip I researched telephone and WiFi options in Baja (it may be different in mainland Mexico). I found out that Verizon, who I have, has no coverage except for a small area near Cabo San Lucas in spite of what Verizon tells you if you call and talk to them. They want you to signup for that international plan. But WiFi is available just about everywhere. If I remember correctly every hotel I stayed at had it and most restaurants did. To be sure ask if they have coverage before getting a seat. I was told AT&T had good coverage but when asking the other travelers I met that wasn't the case.
La Paz The hotel I stayed at while in La Paz was the Lorimar Hotel. It wasn't what I would call a AAA hotel even by Mexico standards, I guess maybe after the TERRAsal Hotel in Guerrero Negro I was expecting Swans on the beds again. But what the Lorimar Hotel did offer was very secure parking and a great location. It's one block from the Malecon, (the waterfront walkway) that is loaded with restaurants, ice cream parlors, etc., etc. There were a couple other hotels I checked out but they didn't have any vacancy. I'm sure it wasn't because I was a sweaty, dusty, stinking Moto rider wanting to park my very dirty motorcycle in their lobby. A bonus at the Lorimar Hotel was - no bugs. They had these automatic bug catchers mounted on the ceilings. GECKO'S
On the road to Los Barriles. Stopped for Desayuno the way at a lonchera ?sp, this time it wasn't a choice of hotdogs or beer. A real breakfast of Huevos Rancheros and Orange Juice with coffee. These small lonchera's run by families are very common in Mexico and usually stand all by themselves along long barren stretches of road. I've yet to be disappointed with my meals at them or the friendly visits with the family members. When I reached Los Barriles I found the Martin Verdugo RV Park and Hotel. What a find, I decided to use it as a basecamp for several days while I made several day trips.
Los Barriles The Martin Verdugo Resort also had RV and tent camping areas. It's a very popular spot for sport fishing. Of course I had to continue my trail of Baja stickers as I continued my southbound adventure.
Los Barriles My favorite food in Mexico is by far Tacos de Camaron con tortilla de Harina. "Shrimp Tacos with flour tortiias". And in Los Barriles I found the ultimate Shrimp Taco. A block down the road from the Martin Verdugo Resort is a sports bar called "Smokies". They had the best by far. I was keeping track and lost count but I'm sure I ate over 30 Shrimp Tacos during my time down there and after all that I still crave them. Just looking at this picture makes me want to go back. But one warning if you ever have a chance to visit Smokies.....the bartender who is also named Martin makes a very powerful margarita, I had two which was a big mistake.
Los Barriles Sorry this has nothing to do with motorcycles or motorcycle gear but I found this discovery very interesting. I was on another day trip and driving down the road outside of Los Barriles when I see this dog and a goat head butting. It was a strange site to see a dog head to head with a goat. I stopped to watch and take these pictures. It appeared the goat was trying to wander off in another direction but the dog was not going to allow it. The sequence here is the head butting then the goat still trying to leave the herd and finally the dog getting ahead of it and corralling it back into the herd all the while keeping the herd of goats moving on to their afternoon feeding area. Later that day I found out more about these goat herding dogs. When the dogs are pups and haven't yet opened their eyes they are placed with a female goat. Then as they grow up they think they are goats and the female goat is their mother. All their lives they have this natural instinct to herd and protect their "family". When hungry they will suckle from the females. Who would have thought you could learn about goat herding in a motorcycle ride report.
This is a great thread... Baja is on my must-ride list. Thanks for the comment Ron, I'm pretty sure you wouldn't be disappointed.
Cabo San Lucas I reached Cabo on October 17th and wow has it changed. I was there in 2002 and again in 2005 and in that time it has become, well - very crowded, the open public beach I remembered to the SE of town was now inaccessible to the general public. A picture of my Terra on that beach was going to be my final adventure photo that I would take to highlight and remember my Baja trip. The rest of Baja California for the most part was how I remembered it but not Cabo. I know Cabo has always been a party town and geared for tourists but it's lost a lot of it's charm. So I rode around town and finally decided my Cabo picture would be this one in front of Squid Roe.
Todo Santos I originally planned on staying in Cabo for one night but the hotel I planned on staying at was still closed due to damage by Hurricane Odile and I couldn't find another one I was comfortable with so I continued north to Todo Santos. There I had lunch, stuck a few stickers around town and then ended the day back in La Paz.
North of Todo Santos I stopped for a snack and water break and decided that this area would give me a background for some pictures that would better highlight the experiences my adventure instead of the Squid Roe pics.
