wow, i did a quick adjustment and my 09 te250 is acting much better.. i can snap the throttle fast and it will follow me. almost put 2 turns in the allen/nut by the cables and pulled 2 turns out of the spring'ed/phillips head. idles 1850-1900
While it is unlikely to be a problem - if you tweak the idle hard stop (allen bolt and nut) - make sure you still have slack in the two throttle cables at idle when you're done. MAT
all i know is it went from bogging when you snap it to now revving. i'll check the cables again before i run it tomm. thx
I think I am going back to the original position (TPS Calibrated- stop at 3 turns open from full close) until I can get the TPS set. For me- I think my TPS is too far off now- its effecting mid rpm response- badly: sputter pop (also seems to be running hotter). I did try to turn in the Air bypass and adjust slightly when it was running hot- did not correct. When I can get the TPS calibrated I will turn the throttle stop screw back to 1/4 out prior to them adjusting it... The variance between having to adjust TPS or not I think depends on where you were in adjustments to start with- mine seemed further open than most here. So my tps is way off- at 1/4 turn...
Hmm- I put everything back to stock settings- (easy if you took voltage readings by the way) the symptoms I was having (mid rpm response sputter sputter bang) continued- so although coincidental to the only significant change that I made- adjusting the throttle position wasn't it- I checked coil connections (bolts) and believe I may have found the issue there- haven't been able to test under the same circumstances but so far its back to running great again.... after I verify this I may go back to 1/4 turn throttle. Then have tps adjusted to that- more so when I have time to go to the dealer- Thanks again Mat- I really appreciate the knowledge and testing you have shared.
Just an update on this: The manual fan switch did great job at reducing the need to tweak the idle air bypass thumbscrew when the trail tightened up - a flush of the coolant system (vinegar and water 50/50 then a few clear rinses) and refill with "Engine Ice" has eliminated the need. MAT
I followed up this tweak with a bunch of "cause and effect" Ibeat V2 testing in the weekend. The best setup for my bike is the TPS setup properly with Ibeat, and then the throttle plate closed WITHOUT UPDATING THE ECU to it's smallest position without binding in the throttle housing. (1/4 turn in from contact) 1) As I expected, my TPS setpoint and original multimeter readings where equal. (991mV). The original dealer setup of the bike was correct. This resulted in a wide-open throttle (WOT) position of 100.8%. 2) Closing the throttle plate via the throttle plate hard stop to values below the TPS setpoint slowed the idle speed, but did not change spark advance, throttle position %, fuel injection pulse width. This could be tracked using the log feature - dropping the throttle plate position to its lowest point during idle - then reviewing the log. 3) Accepting the tweaked throttle position (923mV) in software caused immediate flameout when the throttle was snapped open. Changes to the idle air bypass thumbscrew did not change this. Accepting progressively higher values reduced this characteristic until is disappeared at just below 991mv - . 4) A TPS value of 1011mV and optimum idle air bypass (100.2% WFO) lugged below 2200rpm better than 991mV (100.8% WFO) did AND lugged about as well as the bike did with the TPS tweak. The only downside was a 2050-2150 rpm idle. 5) The ONLY way I could optimize the idle air bypass thumbscrew for best lugging and off-idle throttle response - C01 fueling for best 0-20% power and smoothness - AND have an idle below 1900 - is to do the TPS tweak. Screw ended up at 2 5/8 turns from bottom. 6) The ONLY way I could get rid of the off-idle flatspot and between shift hugga- chugga (02 sensor in) was to complete the TPS tweak and have the idle air bypass at 1.5 turns. Everything else (including FB1/2/3 adjustments) could not get rid of it. If I could get used to the high idle speed, and never used the 02 sensor - I would go back to 13/50 gearing and just do the standard WFO=100.2% TPS setup and optimize CO1 for tight bush and rock single track. MAT
So if I understand this right- best set up is NOT having the TPS adjusted or accepting the new position or new TPS voltage (1/4-1/2 turns in on throttle plate hard stop) with Ibeat. Thus the original "bbcmat tweak" tricks the TPS into thinking its more open than it is... that's where the magic is. So if someone adjusts this as outlined and leaves it they should get some positive results- BUT if they then get the TPS adjusted with Ibeat and accept the change it they will have negative results. So you'd have to definitely record your closed and WO voltages and go back to those positions if a TPS adjustment is ever needed. Again Mat- thanks for reporting your findings! and please correct me if I am understanding you wrong...
Yup - setup tps as normal, accept into software, then move plate 1/4 turn from fully closed. The key is in the balance between idle air bypass and throttle plate position. You have to lean out a rich area in the fuel curve around 2200 rpm. With the o2 sensor in and normal tps setpoints you can see the 02 correction factor drop 4-8% in this area while the bike is burbling. MAT
here is a few picture of ibeat2, i have also turn my 1/2 turn in the allen/nut and 3 turn out of the spring'ed/ phillips head. [/IMG]
Check out the water temperature! I think your temp sensor is faulty.... Need to replace that before adjusting the fueling, the bike won't run properly if the temp sensor has failed. Dave
Looks like the engine is not running as the tach reads 0, does the temp read max 165C when engine is off?
No, ibeat shows current sensor values with engine on or off. Hence the other readings appear correct. Dave
au-hunt, I checked what type of fault the water temp sensor on my TE450 today would cause when disconnected and shorted. Sensor disconnected- Fan turns on and fault code shows High reading. Sensor connector shorted- Fan turns on and fault code is Low reading. If you disconnect the sensor connector and you're still getting Low reading, you must have a short somewhere.
The failed temp sensor will cause the bike to run rich so unless you replace the sensor the bike will not run correctly. Dave
thanks Dave, i still waiting for Husqvarna Singapore to approve the warranty claim.. it taking too long been 2 week and still no news... is there any other after-market temperature sensor around?? Matthew
They only have to see the Ibeat screenshot, that should show them there is an issue! But of course the bike still must be registered for warranty etc for them to pay the claim. I'm not aware of an alternative part - we don't see many standard ones fail but when they do it can give unpredictable running problems. Dave
