I'm bringing this thread back from the dead to get an update on the "DIY EFI tweak". Is this info above the latest and greatest? I read it with interest but didn't understand it fully and haven't experimented any myself. I do, however, now have an Innovate LC-1 AFR meter so I can watch the Air/Fuel ratio as I ride, and I have a PCIII so I can adjust fueling however I want. My '08 SMR510 runs well so I'm just playing. And I've noticed something related to this thread--there is a just-barely-off-idle horribly lean spot. It seems what is happening is the throttle valve opens off the hardstop but the TPS threshold is higher than that so the ECU doesn't add more fuel until the TPS setpoint is reached, and then it adds in more gas and you're back to normal operation. There is just that dead spot. (I do not have iBeat BTW.) Before I do anything, I'd like to understand more about this process. What is the idle RPM screw actually doing? What is the "choke" actually doing? How do you make the TPS setpoint match the TPS value when things start moving? Same question if you don't have iBeat?
Right click on my user name - read all posts - all that info is in there EXCEPT the Power Commander interface issue. I would not have two fuel control systems with 2 separate TPS zero points - hence the DIY tweak (IMO) cannot be used in your application. MAT
I just did the tweak. Had .98v and 4.41 respectfully with 13.3 battery voltage, now its .942 and I forget what I have now at WOT. This plus the open vacuum line from the manifold should hopefully prove to be an improvement. Find out tomorrow.
A follow up to this DIY tweak. (on my 09 TE510) I went through this exercise before I had access to Ibeat V2 - after using the software and gaining experience with it over all seasons and weather - here are some opinions. 1) the most stable tuneup has a TPS setup of 100.2% at full throttle and the idle position set to whatever postion achieves that number (my bike = 1016mV). DIY tweak not required. 2) the bike will hot idle at 1950-2050. That's the way it is. Techniques to lower the idle make the bike very sensitive to idle air bypass screw positions. I'm not fiddling with that as the air density changes morning to noon to night. I will turn it out to 4 turns when warming the bike up in freezing temperatures. Overall - this has as much to do with the ignition timing curve as the fueling. 3) The idle air bypass should be used to set the idle air mixture - NOT the idle rpm. Mine runs best 2 3/4 turns out plus minus 1/2 turn depending on the day and the ride. Hot slow singletrack needs more air (turn screw in) Cold street riding needs less air. The most consistant way to set the position is to move it to optimize your hot start. The motor should immediately fire off the crank button and jump to idle rpm. If it struggles to start or slowly increases in rpm to idle - give it 1/8 - 1/4 turn in until it starts best. 90% of riders probably won't bother - it's effect is only in the first 5% or so of throttle. (off-idle transition). If it takes more than 1/2 turn then CO1 need to be reduced .3% or so. 4) When your tuneup is close - changes to the exhaust make a difference. Mine will "surge" around 28-3000 rpm if i remove the spark arrestor - perfect if I put it back. I can move the surge around with c01/co2 but it never disappears. 5) I set co1 lean enough to make it hesitate under snap off-idle throttle openings - then add .3% if dual purpose riding or .8% if tight single track riding. 6) I set co2 just lean enough to remove the constant throttle surge in 6th gear at 3-3300rpm. This is my off-road setting. I'll lean that down 1 to 1.5% for street riding 7) I set co3 at 100%. I run this a tad rich - the excess fuel provides cooling and detontation resistance without much loss in power or range. I've give up the small % of power as insurance. MAT
Awesome work and summary! I think my experience and adjustments collaberate all points you made. 09TE450. I have NO flameouts, bogs, hesitations, I have had this bike in many different temps and elevations. I am running 100.2 and have CO1 at 98.5 CO2 at 99 and CO3 at 100 (from memory). I have a quieter exhaust incert I modded so that is also a factor efecting my CO settings. With the stock Spark arrestor (US) I can run richer settings. Like you I ignore idle rpms and focus on mixture- I think I am idling at 2000 or so... Thanks BBCMat for all your posts!
Wish there were pics of the throttle block off adjustment area... where that allen has to be adjusted
Where are you guys without i beat getting the voltage read outs from on the bike? Which wires do i need to tap into with my voltage meter?
when you start up the bike, does it start right up or cranks for a few seconds then starts? do you use the hot start lever at all? cold or hot starts?
Hi guys, new on this forum but have been watching carefully last few days all posts related to the husqy`s. I have the 08 510 smr, had the usual popping/stalling/dying issues, nearly fixed that by doing the pwr up along with a full Arrow Ti system. Now I have ordered the cable from Semco, I`ve got V2 software from your link and looking forward to adjust the TPS and CO ( as I believe that's needed to make it run perfect) So, what I`m curious about if any of you know what are the CO setting for a pwr up 08 510? And still not sure how its better to adjust the tps.. in the ibeat manual it says just to get a read of the mV with engine off and set it and that's it. Thanks for your future replies.
So, I have a similar situation. No iBeat yet. But a dealer who shall go unnamed did the PU kit. There's a hesitation that feels just like the accel pump is shot in a Keihin FCR carburetor. Which means, the engine needs a blast of fuel when the throttle is first cracked open off idle. Under load, even more. Without it, you get a hesitation. Same with this injected system and Mikuni throttle body. So, my theory is that the system isn't getting that just off idle because it's lean already and the added fuel for above-full-closed throttle is not yet coming. The TPS must be the catalyst to provide a burst of fuel from the injector when the throttle is first opened. But since it has no map yet, it gets nothing. Or very little. It causes the hesitation. So, the TPS has to be calibrated down further, so any above-full-closed whack on the throttle gets at least a small burst of fuel. I artificially induced this by turning in the idle air metering screw, which raised the rpm and put the mixture closer to the increase in fuel associated with the TPS showing an opening throttle. No change to the idle/butterfly hard stop. Just making the mixture acceptable. It raised my idle rpm from 1800 to between 1950 and 2000. But the hesitation is gone. I will have to adjust fuel ratios when I get the ibeat and cable setup. But it will likely allow me to lower the idle rpm without re-introducing that hesitation. That's my theory.
Hi, i have te 450 08. after adjusting the tps and the idle whit ibeat 2, what should i do? fix fb? I think I have the race map, (how can I see it with ibeat?} with Arrow exhaust without cat and without lambda. Thanks
The 'race map' will be selected when the resistor is put in place of the lambda. You can mess about with the fuel using the CO settings - either trial and error or get it on a dyno.
Co? I connectes the lambda and regulate fb1 to 108. Than remove lambda and connect the resistor but with poor results. what base can i start from? throtte at 100.2% and air 3 laps less from all screwed? thanks
