FE/FC My subframe is coming apart - better check yours!

I don't know how to post the PDF, but the 2016 parts catalogs are on Hall's Husky site....
http://www.halls-cycles.com/check-out-our--parts-catalog

at least you don't need to punch holes in the airbox for better breathing.............

Here is some pictures of my '15 FE 501 subframe. I have no gap and have looked this over very closely inside and out.

There appears to be no screws any where other that the top screws that hold the center section to the left side and a bottom bolt above the chain that holds the center airbox section to the lower outside of the left subframes side section.

This bolt is the one mentioned in the video and is photographed for you. It does not appear in the post of the parts fische 15 subframe picture. But the tab is there on my bike and is allowing that supplemental screw to be used pointing outward, accessible from the inside across the top of the swingarm from the Right side of the bike. Same place from where this picture was taken. Clearly shown in the last one of these 4 pictures I've posted.

Which would be likely responsible for closing this offending gap if the '14 models don't have this bolt.??? This bolts location is just above the subframes bolts holding it to the frame.

I just took these pictures right now and am doing my air filter swap right now with my spare air filter.

I don't know about the '14 year subframes. This is my '15. So lets see a '16 model.

I had a look at my '14 and yes it has the gaps.

My 13 FE350 has a slight gap so sealing it with black silicone works a treat. I can't remember where l've seen it but l've seen a rider run a series of screws or bolts along the seem.


You might be better to run strapping across the seam to stop further seperation as the subframe will flex and all l can see with the above are screws being pulled apart and gradual loosen off???

Edit: Found it!!

I will have my bike by Friday the 30th brand spanking 2016 and then I will take a pic if there is a magic screw. I have been at work offshore and heading home tomorrow, picking up my new bike Thursday or Friday. CANT WAIT !

I did some research and the schematics for the 2014, 2015 and 2016 subframes are identical. At this point we just need an actual real life 2016 inner rear fender picture to solve the mystery. My local dealer may be getting a visit from me. Maybe I'll leave with a 2015 TE300... hehe. Could be an expensive picture mission.

That's no joke.......I only stopped to pick up oil and filter for my wife's bike......

OK, so I stopped in my local dealer. They had 2 2016's on the floor. Neither one had the mystery screw soooo...
At this point I'm saying Husky did not address this issue as hoped. At least not here in the States.

Oh ya, they had a 2015 TE300 calling my name too

Good point! It's not a bug, it's a FEATURE! The big tech companies do that ALL the time.

I don't think it's been address as all the mags here in OZ don't mention anything about airbox/subframe changes as drastics as mounting brackets or screws.

OK talked to a Husky mechanic and '16 model owner yesterday. Apparently the big deal extra screw is actually a tiny self tapper fitted where the side panel meets the centre subframe.
I'll try to get a picture of it.
Pretty much where the gap appears as shown in the picture. The screw goes in from the back side and not from the sides. All it does is where the subframe pulls apart it screws the tab on trough the plastic.
The mechanic told me that it ripped out after two rides and he fitted an big size zip tie (not the length, big width) and some silicone which works better.

Not my words, but he compared the fix to putting a band aid on a broken leg.

There are the pics of my airbox where it meets the frame. I cant see any special screw anywhere.

J3THRO, this is exactly the same as my '15 FE 501, there is no gap. Bolt below the offset in the long upward seam at the bottom through a tab in the center section pointing outward above the chain going into the side piece. That I have already photographed and posted.

This tab does not show up on the factory drawings of the sub frame assembly? '14 or '15 That I have seen and I believe were posted on here. At least I couldn't see anywhere in that computer generated drawing.

So there is no hidden supplemental screws anywhere??
Between the top and bottom screws up along this seam, Or where these others are coming up with a gap??

My'15 FE501 has never been in a crash . Maybe I've dropped it a few times from a dead stop when I was across a narrow ravine or low spot and couldn't get a foot down far enough before it was already leaning so far I just let it fall over.

But these few occasions were never enough to do any damage. Even to the rear airbox side panels. I do have a small dent in my FMF Muffler can though. Its more like a scratch with a 1 inch gouge. I'll pound it out on my set of Pexto sheetmetal workers mandrels maybe some day if I even bother. If and when I repack the muffler.

I don't know why these others sub frames are opening up ?

I believe the '15 and '16 are the same, No? Your '16 looks to me to be exactly like mine does.

16 has gap, can see it inside aur box, place light at fender and it will shine through, not a big deal, silicone it. I will post pick if someone still needs it

I used black silicone back 4000 miles ago. Still fine.

Yep, the good old sikaflex treatment. All good!

Mine isn't separating yet and I'm 240lbs. after a good meal, plus riding gear and hydration pack all total probably a fat 265+lbs easy.

Black Silicrack is where it's at. Not yet though. No noticeable gap really yet and no light escaping with a flashlight either.

First post to the site.
I have a 2016 250TE and I can tell you right now the extra tab to keep it heald together doesn't make it any better. The plastic piece that the bolt goes through will rip, and the problem persists as it did in earlier years. The separation I have is well beyond repair. But for now I use black duct tape to seal the gap and it has helped. It has helped with my air filter getting dirty after just one ride. But to truly fix the problem I would need to order a new subframe. Until it completely fails I'll run it like this. Pics to show how big the gap actually is.

FYI from one of the 2 stroke section posts, remember these are flexible composite plastic, that means they really do move around quite abit and that means they can get tweaked into a "bad" open seam position.

" John as you now see these assemblies are built up with replaceable components. My 2014 TE300 had quite a bit of seam opening tweak age, so when it was up at ZipTy Racing they pulled the sub frame assembly apart and simply reassembled it with some RTV sealant in the seams. All the split seam openings came back together, it was just tweaked from riding and needed to be freed up and reassembled. In this (your) case with broken section, you just remove the entire assembly and remove the component and replace it with new piece, I recommend reassembly with a high quality RTV sealant to improve the seam sealing. "