MY2013 TE511 Clutch not disengaging.

I'd take it and ride it anyway. Both of the clutches in my TC449 and BMW G450X engines always drag a little bit. You think thats dragging. My old Maico's would wheelstand in first gear with the clutch pulled in all the way if you goosed it.

Yeah, that didn't help either. I'll pull the clutch cover off in the next day or two and see what I can find.

Well I'm relieved and feel like a idiot at the same time. I let the oil get good and hot both before and after the oil change and even road about 15 miles of stop and go (ie, lots of shifting) the other day with no improvement. Today I let the bike warm up for about 10 mins and the clutch worked with out any issues. Frustrated that I missed my ride but glad it seems to fine now.

Well that's great news! Maybe the plates were just stuck together like Kelly suggested earlier? Keep the 0W40 in there and you should be smooth sailing from here out.

I told you before, I'd take it out and ride it anyway. It probably would have been fine after a bit of abuse and you probably missed a good ride.

Kelly, I'm having the same problem again and still trying to figure it out. Per the service manual this adjustment is only for the reach of the lever. I tried adjusting it anyway with no improvement. Do you think that it should make a difference?

I have recently tried to tackle this on my bike. IF i pick my feet up it will move about 1mph when cold, once hot it seems fine, but idling in gear does bring the rpm down slightly.

SO, I rebled the clutch and it feels a bit better, but issue still remains.

When cold if you try starting in gear with clutch pulled it will move the bike forward.

I have decided it is the nature of the beast.

With all my adjustments i made , i was out yesterday and rode for about 2hrs.
My clutch is dragging hard when the bike is cold. Also the lever feel changes when the Oil gets hot.
I have accepted it and just live with it. I have tried 0w40 Oil and all sort of stuff.
i made sure the Clutch plates installed just the right way ( Oil gallery ) holes etc.
I bleed my cylinder several times with no change .Its the nature of the beast. I can live with it.
i am back to 5w40 Motul 300V and wont change again.

Here's a question for everyone. When I remove the cap to the clutch reservoir the rubber gasket on the lid is blown up like a ballon. I fill the reservoir, replace the cap and quite a bit of the brake fluid is forced out due being displaced by the inflated lid. Is this normal? I can push the air out with my finger but it instantly returns to the inflated state. I wonder if I'm loosing too much fluid due to this.

I just can't accept that this is normal. Can anyone else comment that they infact don't have this issue?

My bike doesn't like to start in gear but not enough drag to move the bike forward.
I can be stopped with the clutch in and not even a bump forward.
Not normal and not safe in my opinion.

That soft rubber bit is common on most bikes but would need a pic to call it normal or not.
I'm no mechanic but I would be looking at 2 things.

1 - Am I loosing pressure on the actuation side? Worng fluid, bad hose, connection, or seal between lever and motor.
2 - Propper installation and condition of clutch plates and springs.

Again, definately not the nature of my beast and it's been well used and abused.
I've even drowned it in the middle of nowhere, dismantled and flipepd it over to get water out of the top end, put it back together and rode another 50-60km of nastiness to get back to the truck. The stuff boiling out of that motor at the end of the day did not even remotely resemble anything oil like.
That day had me scared and really questioning my decision to buy this bike in the first place (considering rebuild costs) but after a thorough cleaning, many oil changes, and a load more miles it is still running strong.

Mine has done it since new like I said and nothing corrects it. What we need is an aftermarket slave cyl with a smaller diameter (more travel) and better sealing ring or dual rings. This would help tremendously.

Always drags quite hard in gear clutch in cold, better when hot, but hard to find neutral still.

I get very slight drag when in gear but can still hot and cold start with clutch pulled in while in gear. Something is not adjusted correctly. I only felt a difference in engagement points (between hot and cold oil) when I used the MME clutch lever. No difference with stock lever with my bike.

The screws that hold the cap on are included for reference.

This looks like something has deteriorated it to the point of it going bad. I would replace it for sure and change out the fluid. Its hardly recognizable compared to mine.

I agree. Some fluids will destroy rubber bits in a quick hurry. I've had to rebuild more than one break system because someone figured one was as good as another.
I'd check the parts diagram to see what other rubber bits may also be at risk if this is indeed the case.

I've seen this many times. It would appear that someone put the wrong fluid in your reservoir. You can only use dot fluids in dot systems and you can only use mineral oil in mineral oil systems. Mix and match and the reservoir rubber will look exactly like yours. I swapped out mine for Motorex 5.1, completely pumping the entire system through. It is unfortunate, but you may be changing out all your hydraulic seals. Try purging your line first and see if it helps.

As far as the clutch goes, slight drag when hot is normal, there is only one spring used and it doesn't have a huge throw. The clutch requires a cSt viscosity close to 3 to operate properly and this is why the 0W40/5W40 oils works so well. 50/60W oils usually do not drop below 8cSt and therefore drag is increased.

http://www.amazon.com/Motorex-DOT-B...5&sr=8-2&keywords=motorex dot 5.1 brake fluid

Possibly but I'm the only one that has touched it other than the dealer. I could only find Castrol Dot 4 which is what I used. Now I may have mixed it myself with whatever was in there from the factory.

Wrong fluid, your flex hoses and slave cyl. seals are going to be ruined as well. You have to replace every rubber part and flush with brake cleaner before assembling it with the new seals and hoses or the residue will contaminate the fluid again and cause the same problem all over again.