125-200cc Need Cafehusky counseling...WR125 problem.

With mine still being a 125, it may be a bit more sensitive. Mine did it with the stock PV spring also, I added Walts kit and it did not change the bog situation, but it spread the power band from low to top instead of a light switch. While I got it running well with the mikuni, the PWK adds a little more bottom.
The problem I was experiencing really wasn't a bog, it was more extreme, the engine would die from a lack of fuel. In a way it is not carb related, because the symtons are the same no matter what carb I put on, and that is including an old 34mm PJ keihin. For whatever reason, my bike needs fuel to make it run the way I want. And yes, I have replaced piston ring, head o-ring, checked reeds, checked air leaks, adjusted pv linkage. And I agree, maybe it would not happen so much in normal riding, but if I am almost stopped and I am suddenly faced with an abrupt turn and steep uphill, I want to grab a handfull of throttle and it pull.
While I don't think I have my bike jetted perfectly, it runs really well with the richer settings. I am probably lower altitude than a lot of you.
GP

That wack bog drove me nuts !!!..until I found out that turning the air screw inward 1/8 of a turn at a time....eliminates it completely


PS your right water racer....I am at 4000-6000 ft

having the same problems. same bike same set up! have been all over the board with jetting lean rich ive tried pv adj . can kill bike with quick twist of the throtle . i hope some one can figure it out this tho

I might be attacked for saying this but, what premix oil are you using? I can't get my WR250 jetted correctly using Amsoil, but it runs sweet using Klotz Techniplate...

wr low bog

Im runing Amsoil dominator. I have mixed it at just about every ratio rich to lean,same results. Air screw seem to b the most affective to tame the mystery low end bog that if u twist hard u can kill the motor. Im not alone on this issue.

It's late, well for me anyway...:snore:

If it's the jetting with the possibility of the power valve not being adjusted right or opening to soon, has anyone ever secured the power valve in the closed position and see what happens? If the stiffer springs keeps it from opening and maybe running a little better off idle this might be a good test...this shouldn't damage anything, Right?

It just won't get on the pipe, but wouldn't this help isolate and/or evaluate the power valve influence??
I have a feeling the power valve moves whether you want it to or not...creating a low end chamber configuration that is not consistent; therefore all the strange jetting. Maybe there is that internal common design flaw that rockdancer alluded to...possibly the ball governor.

Why is everything so inconsistent?

I appreciate the in-depth conversation/thinking. I bought this bike because of old world brand loyalty and wanted so badly to put it on the starting line amidst the orange and blue. New brand loyalty is taking a major hit here. Why would anyone want to buy such an inconsistent piece of equipment? Or even think the next one will be OK? I'm not going to mess with this a whole lot longer; pretty soon you can have the whole bike along with the spare Mikuni...Does anyone from Husky care or are they planning on a whole new batch of buyers for the next round of bikes? I'd love to become a repeat buyer...but for now I'm starting to regret the first purchase.

Now that I'm off my soapbox, I will regroup and head back in with that positive attitude I keep stressing to my 16 year old and take heed to the suggestions here. Heading to Pittsburgh for the AMA Motocross this weekend, see if I can find any Huskys...

By the way, the new windows look great! Wife is ''Very'' happy...

Will keep you posted, and please chime in with the good stuff if you've been holding out...

Bill had a new 2011 wr150 out two weekends ago and it ran perfect out of the box. Did they change the pipe? Ignition? PV spring? I would like to know if there is a difference. I have my 144 to the point where I only see the bog in 4-6 gear and it isn't consistent. Just when I think it is gone it will happen and then I try to make it happen and it doesn't. Weird.

Go as rich on the needle as you think necessary ... and then go even richer. Gene and I conspired to get his 09 running bog-free and all it took was a Keihin DCF needle dropped to the lowest position ... a whole lot richer than what was in his PWK

Am i missing something here or what have you actually tried ? Youve got some good advice from people but are now bagging the bike
You seem to be giving up very easily
You said bog which could have been lean and
you now say it will not get on the pipe - its too rich IMO

Ive just put on a PWK and 175 main is too rich - ( 65 - 70 degreees) not pulling clean up top
try a leaner jet for sake if that doesnt work go the other way

You guys in Australia have to run lean because you are riding upside down in the southern hemisphere!! Just kidding
I agree, we have given the advice, now you need to go try some stuff. The bikes may be inconsistent bike to bike, but once you find the jetting it wants, they are very consistent, and very good bikes and I am not interested in going back to KTM and have to consult with the wizards on how to make the suspension work, I will take jetting any day.
GP

Good morning…I agree…

And I acknowledge I have some work to do…

The ''not coming on the pipe'' comment was in relation to the results if the power valve was secured closed for some testing…

On the main the bike actually rips, plug looks good…but getting there is the problem.

I can and will sort out the jetting; I was just surveying to see what else it might be before I commit myself to ''it's just jetting''…

I just don't understand why it's so inconsistent…most posts and threads talk about elevations, temp, humidity or finicky carbs….

I have six pages of notes of what I've actually tried with both carbs, and yes there are places I haven't gone yet…

I am really not in a great hurry now that my son is sidelined with a broken collarbone that I somewhat attribute to the 'blah'…Lets just say the bike pulled this trick coming out of a tight corner heading into a decent double and he came up short.

When it comes to someone messing with my family I'm very passionate …Therefore the small bagging incident, not ripping them a new one. I do want this to work…

I'm an easy going guy, but it just seems that something is up here; the bike is put out for sale one year, the necessity for an update kit for the next year confirms possible issues.

I still think we need an update kit to the update kit, just not sure what.

These are all good ideas here, I actually have a couple of good sidebar conversations going with the pm type people who don't like to post…have had several phone calls, all good stuff.

I will go quietly into the garage, decipher what I have, keep track of what happens and report back…

Until than...

Thanks,

check the fit of your carburetor in the boot.

I'll admit that I haven't read all the posts, so someone else may have pointed this out. I have a '09 WR125. I too, went to the PWK. At first, I was tickled with the difference, particularly in the low to mid range. But I began to develop strange symptoms that would come and go. Without taking you through the whole story, what I discovered was that because the PWK is slightly longer than the Mikuni, it would sometimes get slightly cocked in the boot on the reed valve side. What would happen was that sometimes I would come on to a straightaway, pin it and it would just rip. The next time that I hit a straightaway I would pin it and it would act like I was hitting the kill button! This would be in the same lap. I was dumbfounded until I got to looking closer and found dirt in the boot :jawdrop:! Since I have recently done a top end job on the bike, I wasn't about to take any more chances. I put the Mikuni back on and spent a little more time tuning it. I don't have the sweet low end and mid range of the PWK, but otherwise it has run perfectly now for my last three outings.

I was having issues with my 144 more so than the 125, so I bit the bullet and took the bike to a KTM shop(I definitely got ragged on), but they were good guys. I had thought my float level was off, but they tested with a machine and wanted to hire me on the spot.

We talked a lot about my symptoms(loading up bad on down hills, and ripping up hill) and ended up doing some plug chops, I was way rich at 180 RED#3 and 45 pilot(BTW running motul800 32:1) just kept leaning her out till she started singing.

I know others have gone rich way rich heard of some 190 mains, but with my previous bike I was all the way down to a 162 main( i got 100hrs out of that piston).

So bottom line, if the seat of the pants fail, take it old school and do some plug chops until that plug looks a nice milk chocolate.

I have the spring kit, but do not want to mess with a good thing...

I think that patience is the key to owning a wr125 . People who like theirs have plenty of patience and have got it to run great - either that or they were lucky from the start
If I were racing it id probably be frustrated by it as well
My bike was pulling like a teenager up top with the old mikuni
Put on the Keihin . Changed to red needle , 175 main 45 pilot and runs well off the bottom .. so far but not clean up top ....
unscrewing the air screw helped to clean it up a bit but does have that stuttering affect at mid and not pulling hard up top yet
So with early spring conditions - not humid 65 degrees about 500 ft
165 170 or 172 may be more like it shame the carb came with 175,180 and 185 jets.. If rich jets dont work for guys in Canada over winter I can see them working anywhere
BTW I do believe the adjustment of the power valve arm does help live it up as well

Scootskipper- Thats weird it seems hard to imagine that the boot could compress to stop air getting in or that carby is moving. I shouldnt admit this but I had an issue where I left an air filter washer in the air box by mistake and it was getting sucked in to carby and blocking air - same affect
I wonder if the restriction on your bike is on the air filter side possibly caused by the shocky - hard to imagine but it is against the boot..

The wack bog is cured with the air screw..the kiehin has a very sensitive idle/transition circuit


twist throttle (wack)quickly in neutral.. if it bogs....turn air screw in 1/4 turn....and try again...go in 1/4 to 1/8 turn a bit at a time till the bog is gone

you might have to turn out a bit if temp increases during the day

Thats worth a try also if its a fuel starvation issue thas occurring
I think the confusing thing is that lack of fuel and/or air can have similar affects

Since the bog - that some have- is so abrupt I would have thought its something to do with the air pressure in the venturi being stopped or restricted possibly by a dodgy air box ?

I still think it If anyone can repeat the bog situation it would be interesting to try removing the air box completely and putting a temporary foam - uni filter on the carby to see if it stops this happening


By the way for reference this is simplest to read information on carby tuning Ive seen

http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm

Hi Rockdancer, It wasn't stopping air, it was leaking air. I didn't have a good seal around the carb. At high RPM, there was air getting in through the boot from the outside. I was going to an extreemly lean condition for brief instants. I'm lucky that I didn't do harm. I would fiddle with the carb until I was certain that it was in straight and tighten the hose clamp, but it would still move during riding. I have learned that the carburetor needs to be perfectly straight in the boot and the clamp should be tight, but not too tight in order to have a perfect seal.

I have had some issues close to this with my 2008 cr125 to make a long long story short with the help from Terry at fox powersports and Fran at battones i had an electrical problem the stator and cdi are being tested at ricks electrics now. We ended up switching all the electronics off from my 2000 CR250 (except the flywheel have to use the 125) and the problems all went away mind you i baught this bike new as a left over 7 weeks ago.

Mikuni Carb
440 main
30 pilot
stock needle 4th clip
3.0 slide
1.5 air screw

Gas 93sunoco/110 50/50 mix at 50:1 Klotz R50

Best running 125 ive had yet used only for motocross though.

WOW, I have been reading this thread and I can tell you I went through all the same things you are doing for my son's 2008 CR 125.

Same basic symptoms, lack of bottom, little bog and then a big WHACK hit to the top. If he could find traction that bike ripped!
But he was never very happy riding it. It was a rather maintenance intensive little beast and it could be perfect at the the start of a 2 hour event and maybe not so much fun to ride at the end.
We did all the CR 125 tricks (Walts PV Springs, jetting, plugs, plug cap) and had it running pretty well but he was never really smiling back at the truck after a race.
So he found a good used 2006 YZ 250 Yamaha and even in that mudfest that the WNYOA round was at Miles Mountain this year, he had a BIG grin on his face when he came through scoring.
Honestly, if money was no object, we would have kept it and done a 144 kit. I belive ALL the Husky 125s are over carbed, which is why they run so well on top. Racing it for 2 years has made him a better, more agressive rider, but it would have been nice if that 125 have the bottom and mid pull his old RM85 had. We'd have kept it if that was what the motor was like.