125-200cc Need Cafehusky counseling...WR125 problem.

Im not an electronics type of person but all i can say is my 125 with the 2000 CR250 electronics on it and the jetting i posted above i have no bogs any where and now 110% satisfied with a bike i was ready to sell because of it and also i have never touched the powervalve adustment or spring and im currently in the points lead in the lites expert class in the AMRA/OUTLAW motocross series in NY with one race to go next weekend. The last 8 races on a 125 in a world of 4strokes id say the bike is worthey havent touched my 2010 TC250 in months and cant wait for my 11 CR150.

I'm still here and trying to comprehend…

Off to Pittsburgh with the boys to watch the AMA Motocross.

Clayfan - My main problem is knowing how good a bike can and should perform. My other problem is trying to duplicate the power delivery based on 3 years of racing an RM85 or an RM85L based machine. The last super mini was an RM85L based bike with all the bells and whistles; including a stroked PR2 105cc motor that made absolutely, without a doubt, the strongest, most predictable, most usable power I have ever seen.

And when the boy was done, he was smiling. :ride: That's what this is all about.

- I'm not giving up…
- I've made some progress…Have gotten some good feedback through pm's - with some things to try.
- After the races; we're going to be doing lots of testing over the long weekend.

Will update…

Everyone have a great weekend.

Why are they using pm's?

Why are they not posting this "good feedback"?

Isn't that what this is supposed to be about, sharing knowledge, insight and experiences?


From what I'm starting to gather there's a whole other "forum" going on in the secret PM world.

It's like the freak'n government.

paktm:

I feel your pain as we too had an RM 85 that never quit and was a great bike. Plenty of usable power, other than jetting and gearing I never did a thing to that bike for my son but change the oil, suspension fluilds, clean the filters and change out tires, brakes and chains.

We were hoping for a similar experiance with the CR 125 and I guess if you have paticence and the time to make the upgrades, the tiddler Husky can be a great bike by evidance of those members who love theirs.
But your right, if your kid is struggling every weekend and he comes back to the truck not very happy, as a good Dad, you'll do what you can to correct the situation.
For us, after 2 years, we put him on a YZ 250 and at least he's happy and we are both smiling and laughing coming home from a race in the truck.

Good Luck
Clayfan

Motorhead,

Paktm sent me a pm with a specific question and wanting me to review a future post that would evaluate many of the sudgestions that are posted here. It isn't an interior forum at all as I just made a couple of sudgestions on doing a thorough job of testing before he posted his findings so that he would cover all the bases and avoid some confusion and a need to go back and do more. I too am eagerly awaiting what he finds in working with the sudgestions made here.

So if there is an inside forum then I am guilty of that if trying to help him organize his testing to more accurately post his findings here is a problem.

Its all good,
Walt

lets face it

As a owner of our beloved little 2009 wr 125/144 i can say i have spent a small fortune in trying to get it right maybe not as much of some of you but more than enough ! Lets face it this motor / setup is flawed .And if you think that race gas ,new carbs, pipes,bigbore kits ,pv. springs and countless hours is the ansewer why the mystery low end motor killing bog?

Just canged to a Keihin and rode today
The Keihin carb does give the motor much more bottom end

Much better for hill climbs -I was attacking the hills with confidence
My settings (which may not relate to you but cant be too far off )
were 170 main 45 pilot red needle . Gone down from 180 to 175 to 170
The top end is still not right - seems to not want to rev - garbles , stutters
seems to be a knocking noise coming from carby

Old mikuni set up had much more top end with a -
I will be getting a 165 main to try - takes 5 minutes to change the main
Dont even remove the carb
I do believe the bog you get when twisting throttle from low engine speeds is carb related
I can now make it happen when I want to - couldnt do that before with mikuni
no other changes to PVs or anything

I tried adjusting the air screw and didnt make a difference to that issue

I dont find it too much of an issue as you can roll on throttle

I dont think there any air issues with fitment of carby

Mid range hit is now addictively good - yeehah!!

If I can get the top end going hard with a leaner main I wlll be very happy

I think that maybe the pilot jets/needle height may be able to be played with for the roll on throttle issue








Walt has said his does it with big bore kit

lets face it #2

Sorry ran out of room on last post. I like to think im optamistic but i have repaired,rebuilt,tuned, and jetted my fair share of case reed, cylinder reed ,rotary valve,and piston port dirtbikes and snowmobile motors over the years and this little one remindes me of the come and go run qualitys of a tilitson carb on a 440 silver bullet ski doo ! I dont think im being to critical,just trying to make a point !

There is no doubt the motor has a lack of low end power
It is a common point raised in reviews of both CR s and WRs
A CR/WR 125 does not have the low /mid of a YZ 125 and never be as reliable IMO
It does have a better top end and handles better than anything Ive ridden. If your kids race MX then honestly a YZ may be a better option

The Keihin makes the bike more YZ like strangely as a YZ has a Milkuni

BTW I had the on /off bog issue ocasionally with the mikuni and got rid of it
How ? Not with more fuel -as you might think with less... Tried larger pilot and happened again
Went down to 27.5 on an old style mikuni and lowered needle and it never bogged again
Weird huh ? Thats what makes the bike a little bit weird in my opnion //Someone else posted a while back that the same thing happened to them as well.
Walt has this issue and runs fairly rich needle and pilot settings
Im done

I can make mine bog like that but to do it I have to be at walking speed in 2nd or 3rd and start up a hill and then whack it wide open. This really isn't a real world situation. If I am anywhere near the right gear for my speed I can't duplicate this and it just pulls hard right off the bottom. I wish my GoPro hadn't died for a ride up to the top of Ward Mtn yesterday. Start is at 4000' finish is at 9000+. At least 20 rocky, steep switch backs. The little scoot ate it up and at no time bogged or hickupped in the least. It made it effortless and was giggling the whole way.

Walt

Has anybody tried a 35mm PWK ?

I and NWRider had 36mm PWKs on our 06/07 models, no bog whatsoever(when jetted properly), but you do lose a smidgen of top end. Pulls hard all the way through but it makes the gears feel shorter

I hate to see so many people complain about a bike that is amazing once set up! All flag waving aside the bike is plain and simple HARD to jet, it doesn't matter what carb you have on it, you are going to make changes on it regularly, personally this is where I think the flaw is. My 07 ran crappy with the TMX no matter what jets were in it. My 09 has ripped from day one, 125 form and 144 form, TMX or PWK,(no aftermarket pipes not evn the updated ones). With the proper power valves, and linkage setting you should have NO bog, if you do, it is jetting related period. Granted there are other things that could cause this but with a new bike, they shouldn't even be considered.

I am no expert, maybe there really is a machining flaw, or maybe it's the new port setup??? but when people complain about a bike that can be had for 3.5k new vs. 6k for a comparable bike from another brand, just maybe you got what you payed for. I know I did and I am laughing all the way to the bank I am not going to name any brands, but I know of people who spent 8k and are having nothing but problems with the bike and getting parts.


Bottom line...double check you have the updated power valves and linkage setting, and take some time to jet the damn thing properly. Beyond that, I am at a loss, maybe I am too blind to see it, but this bike just works for me, I am sure I'd like the KTM 150, but I just don't get along with the others I have tried.

This post is in no way intended for the original poster, his bike is new and not quite dialed yet. But for those who have had the bike a while and still complain read on. I also feel like making to many changes at once on these bikes is futile, you'll be chasing your tail. PS my closest dealer(that actually carries the bikes) is about 12 hours away.

I have 3 husky 125's two of them are the same year and none like
the same jetting.

You could also try looking at fuel mixture - 36:1 could try 40:1
I noticed better running when l running leaner mixture - I think there is a thread on mixtures most run leaner than manuf. spec

Both my 06 125 and 09 150 seem to be picky. It was not hard to get the 150 close though. I made one needle change and one power valve adjustment and it was pretty good. Keeping the bottom perfect though is difficult. I've noticed that people who are fast enough to not use the bottom quarter of the throttle much do not seem to have problems jetting. My bikes have not been fussy at all when opened up more.

I had JD Red #4 and it felt rich at 1/4 throttle. So I went to JD Red #3. Quarter throttle was good but right off the bottom if was weak. Switched to JD Blue #3 and it was perfect that day. The next time I rode the weather was very similar but the bike was weak off the very bottom again. I went in a turn on the air screw and that fixed it. I think the JD needles might not be ideal so I will try a C taper soon.

I think Steve is right. This bike is over carbureted, especially for less experienced 125 riders in off-road conditions. For these bikes to run right, you have to have them on the pipe all the time (MX conditions) where they are flowing enough air volume to keep a decent intake vacuum when the throttle is whacked open. In the middle RPMs there is just not enough flow. Quickly opening the throttle will cause the pressure differential across the carb to drop to zero. This will in turn cause the airflow to essentially stop. The end result is the ‘blahh’. The engine basically stops running and cannot regain sufficient airflow until the throttle is closed down to where enough vacuum is generated to begin flowing air through the carb again.

We have 4 of these things (’06 WR (EG 144), ’08 CR (EG 144+PWK), ’09 WR (OEM 144), ’10 WR) and on all of them, I really can’t tell a difference between about ¾ throttle and full throttle when churning on the pipe. Given that, I think these little puppies would be much happier with a 32mm or 34mm carb. Especially for off-road where we do use throttle positions other than WFO and occasionally need to ride off the pipe. I think this would essentially eliminate any of the bog or ‘blahhh’ problems without really affecting top end.

Now, all that said, I have noticed that these bikes, primarily because of the over carburetion, are very sensitive to air filer condition. Over oiling or even mildly dirty filters exacerbate the bog significantly. Be careful not to over oil the filters and change/clean them frequently. I put 40ml to 60ml of oil on, hand rubbed in, about 5 ml at a time to make sure it is evenly distributed. This seems to be plenty to stop even the finest dust and still allows the bike to flow air better.

When I recall the good ‘ole days when I rode a 125, I can tell you these little Huskies are SWEET compared to my ’77 YZ125. It would fall flat on its face if you tried to whack the gas open before you got it on the pipe. It was like slamming the brakes on. You learned to keep it on the boil or go gingerly on the right wrist. To ride one of these effectively these days is much easier. You still have to be both smooth and aggressive as well as shift like mad, but believe me, today’s 125 rider is spoiled rotten.

I should mention that the oil I’m referring to is 80-90w gear oil. I use this for dry riding conditions (no water crossings). If I expect to ride in water I’ll use Bel-Ray. With the Bel-ray, I use even less. Tacky oils like this flow less air than regular oils. I use only 25ml – 35ml of the Bel-Ray applied 3ml at a time.

I have a 36mm PWK on mine. Today is the first time in the three months I've owned the bike that it didn't bog - not once! I went back to the stock pv spring and dropped down to a 160 main - MAGIC!! I rode with a guy on a KTM 250xcw and he was pretty impressed that I was keeping up with him on the hill climbs. Amazing how a 2 hour great ride can make you forget about all trouble you had getting it to this point.

Here is where I am now:
Oem 144 kit.
Stock pv spring, pv adjusted to middle of the slot.
160 main, 42 pilot, cel#4 needle, 1.25 on the air screw.
Stock exhaust.

I did a plug chop after the ride with a new plug and it was chocolate brown - I was worried I was a bit lean but I guess not. I think I'll have a beer and celebrate!!

Damn and I just boufght the 38 mm I will get mine right
Im happy for you - I will drink to that day

This should work much better, especially on the 144.

It just seems rather perverse to me that a KTM 300 XC-W has a 36mm carb and then they go and hang a 38mm on a Husky 125!! Is there any surprise at all it has trouble catching it's breath in the mid range?