I don't know how you guys would feel about using an extention for the brake line, but I found one a few months ago. I don't know how well it would work but I was willing to try. I bought 2" Powermadd risers and new bars along with this 3" brake line extention. I ended up moving the bars up and forward. The brake line is pretty tight on full right lock but I was comfortable with it so I didn't try the extention. Breaking the seal on the abs system to try it out worried me a bit along with adding another potential spot to fail. You will find different opinions on how to bleed the system with abs. Some say you need the moss tool to actuate the abs module and some don't. If you are as desperate as I was to raise the bars this could be an option but it is the brakes you are playing with. It is ultimately your decision. I will try to upload some pictures that I found on the net from different bikes.
Absolutely not. I'm using 2" Powermadd's without any issues. They are the same concept as Rox Risers, but they are one piece, meaning you won't tweak your bars in a spill. You MIGHT need to reroute your throttle and clutch cables, but you will not need new cables.
+1, I used two inch Rox Risers. No new cables required. I just flipped the clutch cable and routed it up the left side, disconnected the throttle cable and reouted and loosen and removed the stantion that was holding the front brake cable to the back of the cowling. Done.
Just to remind everyone (at least in the US)... Terra != Strada It's the ABS that is the issue, so unless you're talking about your ABS Terra, it really doesn't apply here.
Yep, I'm talking ABS with 2" Powermadd risers. Absolutely no extension needed. Ordered these exact ones. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001J8Q5VA/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Would you mind posting a picture of the brake line at full right, lock? Mine matches Rayzor's from the previous page. It's pulled very tight, to the point that the ABS junction will move slightly as I hit full right lock.
Know what you mean. Had the same problem. Check out the last few posts on this page http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/pottering-around.39580/ The type/ brand/ model etc of riser (or "high bars") used is entirely irrelevant to the problem. It's also an ABS-bike problem ONLY! And as for bleeding the TR ABS system....nothing fancy at all, just bleed the wheel cylinders as per non-abs. It only takes a little longer as the fluid travels from the M/C a long way to the ABS unit, then from there forward again to the caliper. The front brake line from M/C to ABS unit is a combo of flex braided line and fixed steel line with a factory-crimped joiner, which is placed next to the steering head tube. (and right on top of a second joiner , which is the ABS-> front caliper line). No surprise really, but there seems to be a fair bit of inconsistency in EXACT location + placement of that joiner, being responsible for how much/ little slack that last piece of braided line has to the master cylinder. In my case , taking off the banjo bolt from the M/C connection made the hose uncoil and rotate by about 60deg , instantly giving about an extra 1/2 inch length. It never should've been fitted like that at factory assembly, the front brake line being under fairly vicious rotational stress even when the bars were straight....at full lock to the right, the braided line was trying to tear the crimped fitting around the steering head. In hindsight, trying to raise the bars and discovering the coiled, tight-as-steel-cable brake line has prevented some major trouble lateron, that I'm sure of. As for getting more length out of the line....I followed the routing of the rigid, tube part of the line, straightening out bends here and there a little, which all up resulted in ~1.5" increase in length, bringing the crimped connector further forward. While at it, I also gently rotated the line a little to offset the torsional twist of the flexible front section and line up the banjo fitting with the master cylinder thread. Even at full right lock and with high bars/ risers installed, now there's no tension on the line at all. But having grown picky through the process of trying to fix that issue, I found that at full left lock, the flexible line is stiff enough to move the crimped joiner a little....and all that jiggling might...MIGHT...ultimately finish in material fatigue of the rigid tubing just behind that joiner....so I fabbed a little holding clip out of alum to clip the joiner to the headstem-tube more firmly, leaving it to the flexible line to make the required contortions instead. (now that it's freed of it's previous "twisted life") In short....it can be done, but it takes some sussing out and keeping an eye on the big picture. Going by the Italian background of the product, each individual unit will require its own little methods and tweaks and throw up its own challenges. Even heard of riser-instals that were as easy-as-pie and over+done with within an hour, no changes needed.
Thanks much for the tips, Gents! I'll inspect the lines, before I buy! The Powermadd set-up looks very nice.
got Got mine yesterday but I still don't believe I can reroute the cables without being tooooooo tight (and I do this too every bike I own). All I want is one of those brake line extensions. JBrown has to share his source......... ARE YOU OUT THERE?
By that I just meant going from the braided steel line to the fixed steel line. Poor wording on my part. But yeah, full right lock causes the fixed line to pull. Either the fixed line will fatigue over time, or the crimp will fail. I'm going to pull my brake line off and try to remove that twist in it tonight, see if I can't buy some extra slack there and straighten out a bend or two in the fixed line.
Full right lock. And full right lock with me moving the cable. Not a good picture, but I had some play.
Thought so, but wasn't quite sure. Got "the twist", too? I finished up un-clipping the rigid line from the last 2 holding clips and use some pliers on the hex-outer of the joiner, gently turning the fitting while "massaging" the fixed line where I could reach/ feel it being bend around the tank/airbox/frame shapes. Nothing too hard or abrupt, buggering the job means a new line, endless waiting time for parts and tearing half the bike down to instal it.
The place I bought it (brake line extention) was from Bobs bmw. Part #02-099 I called to order it. 888-269-2627. It came with 4 copper sealing washers but no banjo bolt so you will need to purchase one.
JBrown, what donor bike did that brake line extension crossed from? I would like to put it in my parts index.
When I called the parts counter at Bob's bmw they said they have a company special make the parts for them. When I received the package it says it's for an f800st. The fitting used say earl's fittings on them. It would be better if the banjo end was a 90 degree bend you might check to see if it will work with your hand guards before you order.
Thanks, I've got it and listed it under controls in the following thread: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=24352468&postcount=4293
