New 13 TXC 310

That's a cool looking bike ... It almost needs clear-coating over the entire bike to preserve it for the next 100 yrs just as it sits today ... Better yet, just go ride it :0) ..

While I shipped my boinkers out, I figured I would do some more stuff, till they get back. I am contemplating, painting rear shock spring red. Reddi Whip is almost Reddi Freddy!

In the meantime, when I put my side plate graphics on, I had to transfer the TXC310R stickers to the rear fender. So, you really don't see them anymore. I have been studying this bike and kept wondering, how that TXC310R would look on the silencer. I made several stencils and painted it on with automotive paint.

Well, after 4 hours of prepping, painting, then applying 4 coats of Dupont Automotive clear, I think she looks pretty darn good. Well, I had to stick something on that big cannon! I think it will hold up better than a decal, due to the heat. If it doesn't I can always start over and use a more heat tolerant clear. Probably, will get trashed the first time I crash or get run into. If I don't like it at some point, I can remove it.

Darin the bike looks so sick!!! I like the painted pipe I hope after all that time and effort it holds up for you!! Thanx again for the help on the protective tape. Just found out our club is having a ride at an indoor track Super Bowl Sunday.....guess I won't have to wait 4 months to ride again!!..........sweeeet

Thanx, yes, can't wait till spring gedts here to do some racing.

Thanx! Great, that is going to be fun! Keep telling myself, couple more months.

On the other hand, we have some time to work on our bikes.

Yeah, sure hope it holds up. But if not I can use more heat tolerant paints.

Darin keep us updated on how the boinkers turn out...I realize you probably won't know until spring, but I think alot of us would like to know what they did and how much improvement there was incase we need some suspension work done.

Huskywood,

Sure, I will let you know how they turn out.

I have something new coming by this weekend, that I think you and others will like.

Will try and do post on it.

While waiting on my boinkers, thought it is good time to take everything apart and pack with grease. Was shocked, both front wheel bearings, under the seal had almost zero grease. Rear bearings were packed good. Steering stem bearings had almost zero grease. Swingarm was same but linkage was greased good. Go figure? I also put antiseize on rear axle adjuster bolts.

My J&S bleed on the fly, fork bleeder system came. I mounted bracket on top of clutch perch, but can't really reach it unless I take my hand off bars. I am going to make an aluminum bracket so I can locate my fork bleeder with my thumb by the kill switch. Will post some pics when done.

Also, they enclosed Zip Ties to clamp hoses on fittings enroute to main bleeder. I think Iam going to install better, spring clamps instead. Looks like a neat set up and when racing, forks build air pressure. I can reach over with my thumb, and bleed air off. Figured I will do it each lap while I am getting some air time.

Here is the new J&S Bleed on the fly fork bleeder system:



As you can see (in instructions) the bracket/ main bleeder sits on top of your clamp on clutch perch, using 2 spacers. I had a hard time reaching it here and I wanted it so that all I had to do is reach over in mid air and release the air with my thumb. So, I made a new bracket in pic 3.



This gives you an idea of how they are installed. I will do that and shorten my hose once i get my forks back.





This last photo shows how I made a new bracket so the bleeder can be easily reached by my thumb, but far enough away/out from kill switch.

Next thing on the list is s good lightweight battery with better cranking amps.

I like the ballistic 8 cell Robertracio installed. Anyone have success with any others?

Shorai? Pros and cons to these?

Looks as if I might need to weld up an aluminum box/brackets, like the stock plastic one, for the battery to sit in, as it fits in the rear fender. I am taking that it will be bigger? Suppose a guy can line inside with couple strips of foam tape,with the adhesive on one side?

My new red head baby is coming soon, hopefully within the next two weeks....
Was using a Shorai battery (LFX14L2-BS12) on my TE310 2011 and had no issues with it. It was not necessary to build a subframe. There are foamplates, that are shipped with the batteries to compensate the difference in dimensions. Gonna use that battery on my new one as well.

I have a ballistic the pros are that it fits in the stock plastic box with no modifications at all on my 2011 TE310. It's designed and assembled in the USA, battery can be recharged with a trickle charger without harming it.
Cons: All lithium ion batteries suck in the cold. If you want to do winter riding you can eventually start the bike but its go to take a while to wake the battery. when I had an issues they were a bitch to get a hold of but when I did hear back it was the CEO emailing me personally to make sure everything was alright and he was a straight shooter and did right by me. The balanced charger was expensive and on back order forever finally got it and now I should be all set for a very long time.

Like Nissen said "Remember to grease bearings all over". I think this is a top tip for any of the Husky's.

There was a Demo day last week about 4 hours from where I live. I'm happy it was 4 hours away or I'd probably be broke right now. A new redhead would fit right in my garage but once my wife saw it I'd also be sleeping in the garage!

Good

Good info on the battery, that might be my first mod so interested in hearing what has been working!! Has anyone used or know anything about the Antigravity Batteries? Saw a write up in a Mag about them...they make the case the same size as the stock battery so there's no need to add foam or modify the holder...but I had not heard of them until I saw this article!!

Seems that you was working on the bike for a bit. Just a question for the rear boinker: What is the quicket and easiest way to take it out? On my KTM (250 smoker) with the PDS it is done in 2 min. For my TE310 it was a bit more work and I took out the linkage and swingarm. This is quite good because than you usually see that it needs some grease...

But if you're in a hurry, what's best?

Huskywood!

Good find on the antigravity one!

Birdy!

Thanx for imput on Shorai!

Tessier?

Is yours 4 or 8 Cell? I measured last night and doesn't look like 8 cell fits in box? Could be a bifocal glasses issue on my end.

Here is a comparison so far:

Shorai = 4.45 length, 3.50 height, 2.28 width, 1.61 weight, 210 CCA (Comes with Inst Foam)

Ballistic = 4.50 length, 4.25 height, 2.50 width, 1.7 weight, 275 CCA (Won't fit in stock box, so have to fabricate box,bracket or zip ties).

Antigravity= 4.25 Length, 3.75 height, 2.25 width, 1.7 weight, 240 CCA (Comes with Inst Foam)

Price range seems to be $135 - $175 (Just doing some research and them being on sale, think they are all priced pretty close).

http://antigravitybatteries.com/?page_id=994

http://www.ballisticparts.com/products/batteries/8cell.php

http://www.batterystuff.com/powersports-batteries/LFX14L2-BS12.html

Anyone have experience with any of these? Especially, starting bike in gear with clutch lever in? I know on my new one, didn't crank very good in gear with clutch in, but that could be do to it not broken in and clutch drag a little?

Birdy,

I have no idea what quickest way is to take the shock in and out? Thought never crossed my mind but that is a good point.