New 13 TXC 310

Used a 4 cell Ballistic in my 11 TE310, the specs for the 4 cell match the oem yuasa, it lasted only @ 6 months at which time my FI started going intermittant. Ballistic sent me out an 8 cell and this is what I have installed now, the spec exceeds the oem lead acid battery spec. Its (8 cell ballistic) been in the bike for a couple of months now with no issues, except recently with our below 45 temps in the morning after being cold soaked and frost all night it would not turn the motor very well or well enough to start. I used the kick starter with no issues to start the bike, after that e start all day with no issues. I did trim a little of the battery box for the 8 cell (just flattened some ribs) and like the 4 cell used the packing foam to dampen and fill space, also I wrapped the subframe cross member with insulating rubber to be sure of no battery terminal to ground shorts. I use long pro quality zip ties that go through the inner fender drain holes and around the battery and box to secure the the assembly.

PS the CV4 brand battery looks to be the same as the Ballistic brand just a differnt brand label.
8 cell installation (same for later model bikes)

This was my 4 cell installation. (2011 TE310 )

Here seems to be another good one. Kinda like this and offroad racers are using them.

http://offroadchampions.com/html/super_b.html

Height 3.32 inches

Width 4.50 inches

Thick 1.39 inches

Weight 1 lbs

Price tag $210

I would use the super-b if not for the intitial @ 200 buck cost, its the one that all the FIM World Enduro Teams use.
My 4 cell Ballistic was, cant say, ok whatever retail is @ 100 bucks, and my 8 cell was same.

yer air filters dirty mister mann!!!

loved the BORCS pics man...dirt looked freakin epic! i need to move down there.

and glue some innertube on that bracket! that uninsulated + terminal is freakin me and my OCD out!

That 4 cell is gone anyway. and with the foam and the multi level zip tie securing I measured the risk factor on the metal to term short potential and deemed it low risk under the conditions. The battery had like 0 mass (less than a pound). See the latest config with the 8 cell I wrapped the cross member of the subframe with a cut rad hose to be sure of no contact (its not in the foto but its done now) PS that little red thing on the cross member is my x tra ignition key I case I lose the other one (which incidently is zip tie looped to my cables so it cant go away), and that filter aint no where near dirty..........or should I say really dirty. R
Hey this about the TXC310R...... yea that thing is getting out again this weekend for more feel checks.

You can hinge from loosened upper mount screws and removed lower screws, the subframe up and over to where the tank was thats another way so you can keep the machine sort of together.

Got my boinkers back from GDR suspension, Bart Hayes. Got everything bolted on. Nice very nice. You can generally tell when you put your right foot on shifter peg and push down on bike to see how even bike compresses front and rear. It is well balanced. All harshness is gone up front and is plush. Bike stock in front was harsh and rode like a chopper. When I did it stock after rear sag was set, rear end compressed first.
I will get a ride report once I get some good Woods seat time on it. So, everything comes back apart to I can mark my forks for no stiction or binding issues/ paint rear shock spring red.

I just took er for another spin this morning. I have s section of sharp square edged bumps that I tested it on. Of course ground is frozen like a rock. Stock it was shakin your helmet/jarring your jaw. so far pretty impressed with their work.
I also like first gear, now that I dropped one tooth in rear.

Just an fyi, called Halls to see if had a map switch for the Txc 310. This was while back. They just emailed me and said they just got 13 catolog and they have one. So got one coming. Probably good idea in the slimmy stuff.

Sweeet!! that's good news!!

Darin did you get the red KYB upper fork graphics from Hall's? If not can you please let me know where you found them?

Good news about the the suspension...keep the updates coming

Here are the latest pics of bike. Think I got all my decals on except for maybe some rim ones. Shock spring is red and got my bleed on fly fork bleeders all set up.

Great lookin' RIG

Sweet looking bike . I'm thinking my next bike may be either one of these or a Sherco 300. So how does the bikes weight feel?

John, you should see if you can ride one first and bet you pull the trigger.

Bike doesn,t feel heavy at all till you pick it up to put it on the stand. Feels like the 125 with a torquey 200 engine.

Front forks are harsh to me but then they were not broken in yet, before I sent them out.

Might be good as is for motocross.

Bike feels planted, stays straight, carves real good. You just grab the throttle,shoot and try to keep front end down.

1st thru 3rd seem little busy and 1st seems awful low. I think it help dropping one tooth on rear.

Also, looks like they have a new map switch for it in 13 catalog, as well.

Has the good ol Husky cockpit feel and roominess.

They did something right because they are selling left and right.

I also want to thank Fred Andrews/Far Husqvarna. Fred helped me with alot of bike set up info,etc.....

Saved me alot of time and money. His feedback on the new 310, was also a factor in why I got it and also feedback from owners on this forum.

This bike is going to go down in history as one of my favorites. Gosh I like this bike!

I rode lil yesterday and Brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. I thought my clutch was slipping but I couldn't hook up at all on frozen ground. Think my fingers turned into popsicles!

PV, I think the 310 without the baffle in sounds more like Brap,Brap, Brap, Dum Dum!

I really ike the idea of measuring the centerline of the forks near axle to get them aligned but:
*I've been using the MotionPro alignment tool with decent success - it simply uses 2 "v" shapes connected on a sliding arm and you set the center against the upper forks then make sure the lower forks also center.
*If you just measured the center dimension of your upper forks and set the center near the axle at the same dimension wouldn't that accomplish the same thing without all the fork emptying and compressing?
*EXACTLY how do you find the center line near the axle? It looks like the casting marks are a little off center.
Thanks
(to determine the center dimension of the upper forks I would measure the inside to inside dimension and the outside to outside - the center is half way in between)

I think all you would need is 2 "V"s adjusted to the outside diameter of the fork tubes where they exit the forks. This same dimension would be above the hub where the fork tubes meet the axle clamps. Do you really need the center line?? Measuring off of center on casting parting line will work if the forks are completely compressed. However the extra work needed to compressing the suspension for this dimension isn't needed.

Bike is cleanly put together to bad it will get dirty!

ya mean BUP-BUP-BUP-BUP-B-R-R-RAPUH! ??

OK- that skid plate is much to clean and ding free.

send it to me immediately for testing on 'porky'..., one ride, fix ya right up. all better.

and get some sleep ya maniac! weeeeeeeeeeeeee!

I made an oil line guard. Racing, they like to run us thru some of those tree sappling sections. Those things can really whip at you.

Going back tomorrow and getting a 1/2 zinc compression spring to cover whole length of oil line. You can also crimp spring on the top and bottom.