New 13 TXC 310

Looks like Ready Whip is ready to whip...and whip it good!!! sorry couldn't resist...lol

Darin skid plate looks awesome great idea having bolt front and back...the stock plate design is pretty weak!!

Can't wait to hear about the mapping....could be my next purchase based on your feedback so don't hold back Bro

Once again great thread keep it going......later

Thanx Huskywood.

Think Reddi Whip is gonna whip me! Gettin old!

By the way how you coming on yours? How did your indoor ride go? I see you guys have been getting alot of snow!

Over the weekend, we got couple inches of snow. It was melted by time I got home last night. I took the bike out but ground was as hard as a rock. I just spin the grass off the frozen ground and hard to get traction. I tried the map switch and does help soften the bottom and I did stick better thru accelerating. I looked over at the neighbors chisel plowed field. Thought, I should try my boinkers out. Then thought, I don't want to crash on that hard ground. Ah, what the heck. I hit it in about third gear and shifted thru 6th across field. I was pleased at how the suspension worked. I think I'll still have some adjusting clickers and oil volume. But dang, I want spring to get here for some real woods riding.

As soon as I get the skid plate done this weekend. Going to pull tank and line bottom with heat shield. I also am going to slide a heat shield cover over my fuel line. It is made out of a flexible rubber tubing that is lined with fiberglass stuff. It's grey in color. I have it on my GTO and in back of my mind, think it will work great. I should be able to slide it right over fuel line and end connectors, then cut it. I will post it when I install it.

Every time I ride this bike, I just find more and more I like about it.

If you go to Husqvarna North American web site. Under AFTER SALES section. You can download the new 13 accessories catalog.

The bike looks great Darin but it looks to me like you are spending more time working on it than riding it lol.
The forks on my 310 have been revalved by
a tuner for a similar weight rider . They still feel harsh on big jumps - like they are bottoming out

I know, we are in full winter. So we do our stuff inside to get ready for spring. I am really bored and ready as heck to ride. Thanx.

Slide an o ring on your forks to see if they are bottoming. I think you might just have to play with oil volume.

The range can be 330 cc to 350cc. Right now I am @ 340cc but next move is probably 335cc or even 330cc.

Also, make sure you are not binding as forks compress.

Ordered the KYB upper fork guards from Dennis Kirk. Put those on and the frame tape you sent me. Thanks for the DK tip your right there in my area but I don't think about them as a source anymore there so Harley and street bike oriented!! The grip tape you sent looks great and was easy to apply. I can't get over how it looks like Ryno Liner painted on that's some cool stuff thanks for sending it!!

I didn't make the indoor ride it snowed over night that night and they salt the hell out of the roads around here. All I have is a snowmobile trailer to haul the bike. I wasn't going to get that beauty covered in road salt with no way to wash it afterward!! My buddy and his kid went they drove 3hrs to ride for 34min...he said I didn't miss much!!

Thanks again for the tape and keep us updated on the map switch. BTW does anyone have any experience with say the GET or JD ECU tuner or any other FI tuner. If so please let us know how it user friendly it was and what results you where able to get....thanks

Kevin

Kevin,

No problem, your welcome. Bet it looks good!

I know you and I will be glad when good spring weather hits.

Bummer on your indoor ride. Was hoping we would get a ride report on it.

I started welding up skid plate last night so hope to finish it and post it this weekend.

Looks great Darin. If you are still on the fence about the gunsite, I vote for gitter on! Red anodize or powder coat? just a thought

I like your idea. I should anodize as an end result. I gotta get busy and work on them rims and get them up there. Actually, could ship skid plate up as well.

That gunsight logo is cut out and ready. Was trying to find a spot for it. I clamped it on the ignition side at like an angle and also then brake side, but doesn't look right. Here is another thought. It does look alright flush on plate up front. What if I attached it and moved it outwards? Then cut behind it for like an air vent between the 2 front frame rails? I even thought of moving it inward for same purpose, but think tire would fill it with mud.

So the thought is to move it out from front of plate. Support it from behind, then use it as an air vent to help cool the engine? I could probably move it high enough that it wont take a heavy hit?

This go around didn't cost me a visit to eye doc to get a piece of metal out of eye. Last one snuck up under my safety glasses.

Seems like maybe a couple nutserts in the skid plate and SS (polished of course) countersunk allen screws.
I know what you mean about metal in the eye, makes you appreciate having two after wearing a patch for a few days.

Hey go pull your guys website up. Look @ there pattern anodizing/fade anodizing?

What are your thoughts how they are doing guns.

So what if you did a set of rims in black then did splashes of red/silver?

Pretty cool stuff, I had never looked around on the site before.

That's because we didn't have our bifocals on. So Mr. Steve? Can they do us a set of rims in the black, with patternized red and grey thrown in the mix.

Think it would look sharp on the 310?

Would look good on that 165er!

? How much in us $

I'll see if I can get hold of the guy and see. I suspect $$$

Last night I took a thin piece of aluminum and drilled it so it would look like screen venting. I tack welded it on the back side of the gunsight logo and tack welded the H on. I held it up to the front of the skid plate. Looks good but think it will end up as a vent that will be a mud catcher. So, I am thinking of taking the screen off and making a bracket kinda hidden to hold the H logo in the gunsight part. I can bore the front of the shid plate with a round hole saw. Then I like the idea of moving the log out from the plate, so if it gets blocked from mud, it can still vent engine from the sides. This might be possible like the flush screw and jamb nut idea, Steve posted. I might be able to drill the logo and weld on some aluminum rod stock to it the drill the plate and weld it on from behind. I can come back and file the welds of logo flush, to polish it.

Here is the final skid plate with the logo added. I used Steve's idea and re arranged it some.
I took the emblem on back side and welded on aluminum angle, so the gunsight and H look seperated from the front plate view.
The angle also sets the depth of emblem so it sits it out from plate. Next I drilled the whole emblem in various spots and made studs out of Aluminum. They were welded on, filed,sanded and polished so you can can't tell.
Next I drilled holes in the plate for the studs to come thru then welded them on backside. Also, there are large vent holes cut in the plate behind emblem. I was able to reach and weld the aluminum angle to the plate as well. It is on there good and should take some heavy hits. I took a hammer and block of wood and really gave it a wack with no damage.
The emblem serves as like a guard to keep mud from plugging up all the vent holes behind the emblem. If the mblem gets plugged with mud, which it will, air can still get under sides of emblem.
The plate seems as light as the plastic one and is held on good with stock bolt and another I added underneath with a Unut. The plate is polished now but I know that won't last. Any time it gets scraped up or do an oil change, I can pop the plate off and put it in my blast cabinet, and beed blast it.

Also, made it so If I change my mind about the emblem, I can cut it off easy and resurface front of plate.

Last night I got a good hour of riding in. We finally hit 44 degrees and alot of the frost was out of the ground.

I have to say, I am very picky about how I want my suspension set up. I want it to be plush over the square edged stuff, rocks, roots, etc...., while using the full advantages of the travel and plush on hard hits. I have to say between the KYB's and the way GDR did the revalving and springs. Seems they are on the money. I think alot that has to do with there work. They are testing the actual bikes. I spent alot of money getting them Zoke forks to work and ended up doing the myself, but these KYB's came back perfect. I think since it was warmer out, I ended up putting my clickers back to what they recommended and seemed plush up top on hard hits, so I think oil volume is fine.

Also, best money spent was the S&J bleed on the fly fork bleeders. Big diffference just hitting a button to let the air pressure out of your forks. This button will be hit every lap.

Bike just keeps impressing me and can't believe how well it is set up from get go. I do like the gearing in rear change from 50 to 49 tooth sprocket. Think that was better than buying the map switch.

I spent alot of time switching maps with the button. To me, I don't think there is a big difference between maps 1 & 2. Map 2 just soffens the bottom a little. Probably, just save my money next time.

Bike was like riding a fast Vermeer trencher last night. Every time I was on the gas, it just dug a trench. When that bike hooked up, it liked to stand up in the air.

I have the blessing at home front to get the Husky Acessory, GET ecu, dash board, switch,Pro Circuit pipe and Silencer.

After getting some good hammering last night, I have changed my mind. I bought this bike because I wanted more than a 250 but not the power of a 450. The bike is a perfect balance and I think I would inch it closer to power/torque I wont use. I would probably ruin the purpose I bought it for.

I will race it couple times till I actually will make a decision or maybe just opt for the exhaust.

This bike is the best Husky I've ever owned. Do your boinkers and gearing to your needs and go ride or race it. It truly is that good.

Lucky You! Before I start negotiating the necessary budget at home - where did you find information about the Pro Circuit Pipe? Can't find anything on their page. In The husky catalogue there is only the LeoVince muffler and no pipe...

Birdy,

I don't think Pro Circuit shows it online. But I do know if you call/email them it is available. At least they said it was.

Ok, sorry guys, apparently I was kind of blind:

http://www.procircuit.com/t-5-gp-sys-husky250-2012.html

It is also available in Titanium. The only question is how it rocks without changing the mapping via the GET stuff...