250-500cc "New" 2001 WR 360

Put it in gear with the fuel and choke on. Rock it back and forth 6-10 times. Bring it to TDC then just past at the next hard point, do a short stab of the starter with some throttle. Mine fired cold or warm with one kick when warm, three kicks when cold, so long as jetting was close. And I'm a featherweight. It is all technique (or weight) and jetting.

Weird: I was never able to get a PWK to work better than the Mikuni. My final TM jetting was leaner, way leaner than Wally's on the main though ran well top to bottom and he and I ride at the same altitude. Even had it running well at 12,000 feet in Colorado. I sold it so I don't remember what final settings it had but it took well to minor fiddling.

The Steahly FWW helps with starting and lugging, prevents stalling at near idle. I still have it and was going to use it on my tamer 250 but found it is not necessary as with the 360. I also have a rear disc guard if you are lacking one.

Put a Gnarley and turbine core S/A on just for looks.

I was going to do the auto clutch but found it did not need it with such broad, tractor-like power; probably not a bad idea if you do mostly single track. 14T counter shaft for single track and 15T for desert to lose any 450/505/5XX in sand washes and open desert. Use a MSR multi-position/pull clutch lever or one of those custom ones made for bike tricksters for more mechanical advantage and save your wrist.

Flexx bars helped front end spikes but a revalve would be the ticket. Shock was fine stock with less compression and right spring for your weight.

It eats rear tires. Buy the biggest one you can stand. I had good results with a cheap IRC 5.10; WE 33 and VE35.

Hall's still has the centennial graphics should you need them; makes the bike look like no other for little $.

My buddy said it was the best bike I owned, and others who rode it came back with eyes wide open, but it had to go as it did vibrate more than others (I had surgery afterwards due to hand numbness), and was a bit too powerful for my preference, like taking a wiry dog out for a run after being cooped up. It would seem to out accelerate anything (perhaps even my Mustang, lol) I've ridden up to maybe 60-70 MPH and I've ridden many bikes, mostly big KTMs. Probably the best, most versatile engine out there, with a transmission every bike should have. Open class power with 250-like weight and handling.

Update: Put the PWK on (thanks JD) starts one or two kicks every time, runs a little better everywhere. The stock carb actualy worked pretty good once running but seemed to run out of gas when realy on it (float?). Gold valves in the forks (CL-3, CH-3 stack) smothed the ride out alot. 15/48 is agood set up for what we ride, plenty of low end and rips on the fire roads. Love this thing. Thanks for all your input on this!

Sooo... I had an idea today after looking at my semi new handlebar clamp bushings squishing out from under the washers. This is another much needed upgrade on the 360. Ive been through three sets since owing mines. I've seen composite/uhmw bushings at FBF, ive seen aluminium bushings at Motorsports, why have I not seen urethane bushings like on hot-rod suspensions. Also made some riser spacers to go under my Easton bar posts, im not that tall but 10mm makes a huge difference and the post have 5mm offset forwards. Tried em backwards but the bars were in my lap.

hay ive got a wr 360 2002 pulls like a train. love it all stock. am 10st and have no mid stroke harshness? not had any problems apart from cold start. want to get a spare head before i de comp one.
question where can i get oeiginal graphics set?
oh im also short so had a lowering link custome made from some cnc boys i know this and seat foam hack means shes 4 inches lower. to seat top so i can get my toes on the floor. (side stand starting) lol

I've had the stock graphics reproduced, cost about 80 bucks for the shrouds nad back fender. Oops sorry different year -'93

was that through some local boys or online? am in the uk