SXV mirrors arrived and installed. $30 shipped from a BARFer . Haven't had time to shop kits for a DIY blinker + HDB combo yet but that'll be next. Winding down the end of another semester in college so I've been pretty busy.
Also, I don't know how to edit posts - but I'm up to 1400 miles now and I've noticed a few things. 1. Don't know if I'm just not used to it yet or what, but I can't seem to get a smooth rolling start from the clutch. Doesn't matter how slow or fast I let it out, it goes and then "catches" fully and lurches a bit. 2. Front forks. I've let a couple of friends with more experience on supermotos take her for a quick spin and both commented on how much the front forks dive under hard braking. One suggested a steering damper ASAP, the other just said "man, that bike DIPS." I haven't been riding it very hard yet, just mellow (ok, maybe a little spirited ) rides through the twisties and some freeway time. Haven't needed or tried any hard braking until they commented, so I jammed on it a few times and yeah - it dives pretty deep. Lots of travel. Not sure if that's just how it's supposed to be though or what, my experience to supermoto is limited to maybe 1500 miles total split between a CRF450, Hyper 1100, and a couple different DRZ 400s.
Front compression adjusters can be added, it's fixed from the factory and yeah, it's a little under-damped. Any good bike suspension shop can do the work, and the adjusters run around $100. I forget where to find them offhand... If your sag is set properly for you, you shouldn't really need a steering damper, I see them as somewhat of a bandaid fix for suspension issues. As for the clutch, what oil are you running? Has the first oil change been done? Mine acts that way when it's getting close to oil change time running Castrol RS 4T 10W50.
You could replace the fork oil with something heavier such as 10w with factory recommended air gap to increase damping. and/or throw on some compression adjusters. The SM630 in my garage does dive with heavy front braking but will still ride the front wheel. were your friends able to ride it like this stock SM? well at least you now know what it is capable of. View: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C-GuIDbaews
Hah, no they didn't romp on it quite that hard. So, update - got the recall service done…I think. Dude was done in like 15 minutes O_o which I thought was a bit quick, but I didn't get to watch him do it or anything. Bike stalled several times immediately after leaving the shop with the clutch lever pulled all the way in, he said I should adjust the idle up a bit. Also said he should be able to get the plugs and such in for the power up kit within a week or two and to keep in touch and he'd throw the stuff in for me, and recommended removing the extra catch-can recycler emissions thing (just had some tubes tucked underneath and one went to the engine, the other to the intake, said it was for recycling excess vapors and reburning to meet California emissions). So, gonna do all that next time I'm down at the shop. I'll try and get some pics for you guys next time I'm down there as well - shop's called Moore and Sons right on the beach in Santa Cruz, beautiful area.
Dropped bike off at Moore & Sons again. Clutch started making some weird grinding noises and was really rough in traffic 20-40mph stop and go. Tom recommended not riding it due to the clutch issues - he took it on a test ride and was worried something may fail and cause a catastrophic failure in there and grind up even more stuff. Left it with him for the next week or so (busy schedule for me, won't have time to pick it up for at least a week, busy schedule for him, hadn't made an appointment). He's going to do the power up kit and other deletes I already mentioned while he has it. More questions - 1. I can get the FMF single slip-on pipe + side pipe (basically everything but the headers, to make it a 2-1-1 instead of a 2-1-2) Factory 4.1 Titanium for $550-ish. Hell of a lot cheaper than the Twin Arrows for $1600 on Motostrano. Thoughts on the FMF vs Arrows? Leo Vince doesn't appear to make pipes for the SMS 630 anymore. If this were a sport bike I wouldn't worry about getting the FMF first to try out as it'd be a lot easier to sell for a bit less later if I wanted to upgrade, but with a 630 it's highly unlikely I'll find a buyer easily for a secondhand exhaust. 2. Still looking at HDB brush guards and getting some LED turn signals to put in them. I like the LEDs from Sicass Racing, the aerodynamic profile of Acerbis, and the framework of the HDB guys. Ugh. What to do? Sources for the LEDs from Sicass and I can make cutouts in HDB guards? Main thing I like about the HDB ones is mounting to the top clamp rather than just the bars - a bit sturdier and the top clamp they give you has mounting options for other stuff like a GPS unit or something. 3. Levers. What are some solid but cheap short levers? As posted a bit back the ASV part numbers fit a KTM 690 and certain model Ducatis, so simply sourcing a short level for each side that fits those respective models *should* work. But I want a cheap (~$50 or less?) short lever that's adjustable for positioning. Per other members on Cafe Husky and an email from an ASV tech rep, the ASV part numbers are: Brake: BRC555-SK (C5 Sport Series Shorty in Black w/ red dial) $125 Also fits: Aprilia RSV Mille/R (1999-2003) Aprilia Tuono/R (2003-2007) Aprilia Falco/SL1000 (2000-2004) Ducati MS4/MS4R (2001-2006) Ducati M900/M1000 (2000-2005) Ducati 900SS/1000SS (1998-2006) Ducati 996/998B/S/R (1999-2003) Ducati 748/750SS (1999-2002) Ducati MTS1000SDS/DS (2004-2006) Ducati MTS1100/S (2007-2008) Ducati ST3/S/ABS (2003-2007) Ducati Sport 1000 (2006-2008) Ducati GT 1000 (2006-2008) Ducati Paul Smart LE (2006) Ducati Monster S2R 1000 (2006-2008) Clutch: CDC602-K (C6 Off Road Series Black w/ red dial) $100 Also fits: KTM 690 Supermoto R/SMC (2008-2014) KTM 950/990 Adventure (2009-2014) KTM 65 SX (2001-2012) KTM 125SX/200-300EXC (2004-2012) KTM 125/200 XC-W/XC-F (1998-2008) KTM 400/450/505/525 SX/SX-F/XC (1998-2008) KTM 400/450/505/525 XC-W/XC-F (1998-2014) KTM 250 SX-F (2005-2006) 4. Seat/grips. What are my options for a more comfy seat/grips to cut down on some of the vibration? Long rides literally are a pain in the ass - and if it's cold I even developed a bit of a rash up my lower back/upper ass crack from it. Shifting around on the seat, standing up periodically, and sitting forward (tiny bit more cushioning closer to the tank) help but damn. Could be a lot better.
Oh, and with the FMF I understand it doesn't come with an ECU/power commander type thing - do I still need anything extra once I put the mid pipe and slip-on on? What's the power surge kit people are talking about on here? Lots of reading to figure out and I'm way behind heh.
I've had extremely good luck with the fuel metering and the FMF slip on by adjusting to 108,108,116 using Ibeat. This was based on dynobobs testing. Worked so well I sold my JD tuner.
Think you´re spending too much time (and cash) on the wrong things. The important stuff is (a) the p/u plug (b) a lighter zorst (c) the JD black box (jetting). Only then will you find out what your individual needs are (a cush clutch, levers etc.) I had my front (and rear) suspension set up for me by a professional. But only after I had the bike´s performance where I wanted it. When it came out of the shop (new), it was a really nasty bike. It died every few minutes, wouldn´t pull, the suspension was wickedly bad. All that was `cos the EU authorities wouldn´t have homolgated it otherwise. Just a few tweaks and now (apart from the weight), it´s ok!
P/U kit/plug is already getting done. Zorst? WTF is a zorst? Exhaust? Check. JD black box jetting - up in the air. PC 5? JD? Who to get? I've had a PC3 on my GSXR, but I bought that in like 2008. No clue how they are these days or who's better.
The JD is the best in my humble opinion, it gives me the ability to adjust to the conditions, for example I like a slow roll on power in the single track, the big single has the grunt to get me through the gnarly stuff. On the street it is fun to have the fast snappy throttle response. For SMS use the PCV with auto tune is probably best. That being said, I have yet to explore what ZipTy racing offers for reflashing of the ECU
Zorst = GB for exhaust. The twin Arrows are street legal here (and are stamped as such), are lightweight (compared with the original outfit), come with their own black box, have a great sound and were a great improvement on my 630. Apart from all that, they are Husky parts
I thought the JD tuner combined with the power up kit was the best UNTIL I tried the Ibeat CO fuel settings at DynoBobs recommendations based on his dyno testing. Bob also ran the PCV and easily duplicated results on the dyno with the Ibeat settings. read http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te630-dyno-results-and-thoughts.24763/ Sold the JD Tuner the day after I used Ibeat and his recommended CO settings. FMF slip on set at 108,108,116 Leo VInce full system set at 110,110,120
Husky recommended Ibeat and think I remember it being listed in the spare parts. But as I use a MAC, don´t think it would be compatible. So the JD is just easier to use.
Update for you guys - got the bike back today. Mechanic took apart clutch, put it back together properly, didn't find anything wrong with it but problem went away. Did a service and general tune up, fluids etc., fat black canister thing dangling off the right side is now residing in the bed of my truck , P/U kit plug/ O2 short installed. Bike pulls much harder, runs a bit louder and meaner, and he adjusted the idle down to a nice lope. Bit hard to start now, you have to give it a bit of gas while it cranks, then you can let off and it'll idle on its own. Still stalled on me while cold a couple times at lights though. Exhaust will be going on probably next weekend along with the rear blinkers. Will also likely remove all the decals next weekend. Went with the FMF Factory 4.1 ($608 after tax) and Seat Concepts seat ($171 after tax + shipping). For this weekend....GO GERMANY
Sounds good man. I'd turn up that idle a tad though. Remember: it's not just about keeping it running, it's also about ensuring that the oil is pumping adequate volume (less engine speed=less volume.) Also- for a cold/harder start the enrichening lever on the clutch perch is your friend.
