I kept mine out for a while, but now it's under the seat in the hollow behind the fuse panel. What I didn't realize is that you can see the LED's at night through the little triangular holes in the side panels.
I havent been up at highway speeds yet, but from general town riding : 1) One spends a lot of time in Green Mode, more than one would think. 2) Green-Blue or Idle mode is more important than I initially thought because comming off throttle from Green mode and then lightly comming on throttle again, the bike will start off in idle mode and stay there untill the throttle is opened wider. Also slowing down in say Green mode and then lugging a bit hard, the bike momentarily switches into Idle mode. In all of these situations Idle mode needs to be strong / rich enough to power the bike while riding / lugging. I now view Idle mode as important as Green mode for normal low speed riding 3) Comming off throttle from speed and closing the throttle grip completely, the bike stays in Green mode - not in idle as you would expect. It is important to ensure the smooth transition from Idle mode to Green mode and vice versa as they interchange a lot and this affects your lower speed / on - off throttle riding experience. It really helps to have the JD unit on your bars, particularly at night, as you get a good idea how the EFI is switching around releative to your grip on the throttle
"It really helps to have the JD unit on your bars, particularly at night, as you get a good idea how the EFI is switching around releative to your grip on the throttle" I know ... I know. But I´d likely fall off while mesmerised by the flashing LEDs. And I don´t want anything unnecessary up on the bars ( I even managed to get rid of the tatty looking front brake reservoir). And apart from that, even though it may well be weatherproof, I use the bike throughout the winter months, so it´d spend quite some time frozen in a block of ice.
I only have it on the bars while tuning. Once setup it goes back under the seat. When things change and I need to tune again, it goes back on the bars.
im gonna order the efi today.. id like to know more dyno numbers before spending or drilling.. basically what is the best tune in stock form with pu kit.
I'm about to head to the garage and put that pre-filter and a 14T front sprocket in. Here are the JD settings I plan on starting with: Green (low range), 4 Yellow (mid range), 5/6 Red (top end), 6 Green/Blue (idle), 3/4 Yellow/Blue (green-yellow transition), 2 Red/Blue (accelerator), 8
I am curious to see how you like both the sprocket and the settings. I have yet to play with the settings of my JD tuner and am seriously considering the sprocket change.
So far, I like it a lot. It was just a quick paved spin around town. The bike pulls a lot harder at lower speeds, which is probably due to the smaller front sprocket. Power seems to be smooth throughout the RPM range. Here are my power-related mods: PU Kit Leo Vince Ti System JD Tuner (settings detailed above) EHS Pre-Filter (opened up airbox) I stole a pic of the pre-filter from this thread, hope Fast1 doesn't mind: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/630-airbox-wake-up-call.20669/ Pic: I went with a red anodized frame and buttonhead screws (rounded heads that are lower profile). The red is a bit lighter than the Husky red. I don't have pics yet. My bike is embarrassingly dirty. When it warms up enough that I can wash it without everything turning into ice, I'll do that and take some pics. Just imagine the one shown above with a red anodized frame around it and you get the idea. The filter membrane vibrates considerably when you grab a handful of throttle. One thing I wonder about is how easy it would be to drop my bike and puncture that thing. I carry some duct tape in my tool kit for just such an occasion. I also may order up a spare airbox cover so I can quickly revert back to the regular airbox if necessary.
I've got the exact same mods done to mine except for the EHS pre-filter. Been thinking of doing that one too, but have yet to order it. I'll put that and a sprocket order on my things to do list for this afternoon.
Woudn't make a difference if you puntured it because it would just have similar air flow to what comes through the snorkle, the foam filter will filter the air flow. IMO, the main reason for the EHS filter in that location is to ensure that the engine doesn't injest water since it is drawing air from a location that could be more prone to watar..lower and on the side. The OEM filter will ensure proper filtering for dirt regardless of where the air flows through it. The abililty of the EHS filter material to repel water and be positioned right over the throttle body inlet are the main benefits besides allowing the foam filter a flow of air not just concentrated on the inlet of the snorkle.
Same done on mine. Pity the frame is square and therefore difficult to position (either parallel to the ground or the upper surface of the airbox)
You can look at mine in October Just hit 12K miles, btw, and decided to re-pack my cans. Had less than half the packing remaining. Still sounded fine, just a little tinny.
Are you running new settings ? The ones you gave me dont want to work on my bike . Still have a hesitation around 4100 rpm.
OK, that's where I'm still at, I can't remember my JD settings right off. I did swap in an Iridium plug, it made a small difference, but I don't have a noticeable hesitation. You'll have to ride mine and see if there's a difference.
Just curious, what is the logic behind tweaking iBeat settings while using a JD tuner? I set my iBeat back to stock before installing it, didn't want to make things more confusing than necessary.
My Ibeat was set to these settings by the dealer once I had the motor broken in, and I didn't have them set it back to 100% when I got my JD. That just means that my JD settings won't work the same for you. Stan just tweaked his to match mine because he's got basically identical mods to my bike and wanted to try my settings.
