New To Me Te250 2010 Low Hrs Questions

So today was a step backwards, bog is twice as bad, once bike warms up...it doesn't have the problem when its cool, so the hotter the bike is the worse it gets, my fan does not come on either. The above settings in iBeat made it worse which makes no sense to me. I am at sea level if that helps. I also have a blue exhaust pipe from heat i am guessing.

Here is a video of today, spent most the day bogging once speeds lowered but it was all similar to the one bog i have around 3:00 min mark.


View: https://youtu.be/pDx9UhH1Y50

I would not have really expected your fan to come on in those conditions... but think about the CTS anyway. It has a weird history.

I also did not really hear a "bog", but it does sound a hair bit thick (rich) down low; it cleans up a bit with more rpms.

Nice mtb trails. The mtb'ers don't get pissed if you ride up their trails? Snow! early here this year too.

Those are pure dirt bike single track trails (over a 100 kms), the club is called blue mountain motorcycle club. I am at a loss probably just gonna shell out for Power Commander.

The first couple of mins the bike is fine then it warms up and gets snotty, you can see at one point i can't even get it going

My fan never came on. I took it off.
So you have the resistor in the O2 sensor plug and the airbox baffle is out?
Still got the 4pt injector in?
What do you have in the pipe? Just the spark arrestor?

What was the TPS before you adjusted it?
it is 102.3 now?
What are your CO's?
What is your idle speed?
Press the button on the dash a few times and it will show idle speed.

Was that 1st gear?
You are lugging it quite a bit...
I spin mine a bit faster on a steep uphill.
The stock rear sprocket is a 40 tooth.
If you are still running that you will have to lug it.
I run a 51 tooth rear.
The motor does free up with some use.

I run a 50 tooth on the rear and stock one up front. 12 tooth is on the way.
Yes o2 sensor is out , and lil ghost plug is in, air box baffle out. TPS is set to 102.4 . TPS and CO levels all 100 before i adjusted them to what you suggested.
My friend has a 2010 TE250 that is running pretty good, he uses a JD Tuner , he tried your setting too and he also now has the bog, he is changing it back to stock levels.

What if I attached o2 sensor back on ? edit, tried that tonight it ran terrible and when i pulled out the O2 sensor is was very white.

Well, you have I beat so you can adjust to your hearts content.
Trying to save you the cost and complexity of a JD tuner. I-beat work very well.
my bike likes the higher COs as did most others.

If richer did not work, try leaner.

It sounds rich on the bottom.

Is the S/A in the pipe or is it open?

If the S/A is in and you don't have I-beat handy just pull the S/A out or the pipe and see how she runs. She should clean up on the bottom.

Thanks for helping me out on this, yes my friend is now giving me ibeat to use for a few weeks.

So S/A is out and power up insert is in. I don't think pulling that out is going to do anything this is to serious a condition for that small change to work. I am going to try and lean it out now so go the other way of around 96 98 100 maybe on CO. When I went with the higher numbers it got worse, and I am sea level also so plenty of air here. Maybe my air filter is not oiled up enough and is flowing to much. Putting the O2 sensor in for a short ride last night the bike bogged horrbily and the O2 sensor went in black and came out white. SO the ECU is trying to lean it out like crazy....so confusing. Just got good news, local Husky dealer found me a TCX ECU and I have the kawi 12 port, that will be my next step and just be done with it.

The rich condition is puzzling.....
All I can say is that back in 2010 everyone was running around 110-115 COs with no S/A in and the pipe wide open, powered up. TPS 102.3%
Your bike does sound rich to me.

You said the power up insert is in? The stock pipe came with a pipe restrictor in the end cap and it was NOT a power up insert. It was a baffle to pass sound requirements in the US. Is the pipe wide open in the end? Nothing in there? No circlip holding anything in?
Can you send a pic of your pipe outlet?

You do know there was a plastic baffle under the air filter that needed to be removed as well? Maybe even a backfire screen also.
It's not still in there is it? Did you take out the airfilter and check?

Let's confirm this before you go any further.

BTW, if you have the 2010-2012 TXC250 ECU and a 12 pt, that should fix it for sure, but we have to make sure the restrictors are all out.

Other than that, these bikes were tight when new and needed a few hours to loosen up.

So yes, backfire screen is still in, the restrictive air cover is removed. I installed the shiny baffle with the c clip in the silencer, I removed the SA and put that in. I would be surprised that the backfire screen would cause that condition?

I agree about the backfire screen, but I'd take it out anyway.

I would take out that tiny baffle from the pipe. It will be loud, but it should lean out.

Like I mentioned, open pipe COS were about 110-115 typically.

So I Installed a 12 tooth and Mid West cluch lever, adjusted CO's to 102 100 100 and right now on a short ride with bike up to temp it seems much better. A longer ride will need to be had to confirm.

Cool!

I recall pulling inserts and the S/A out of the pipe made significant differences in the way the bike ran. Mine also ran better after about 25 hrs on it. It was slow to rev and balky before then. Actually felt tight.

It also tended to stutter on the road at part throttle when CO1 and 2 were too lean. The only symptom you want stay away from is if it falls on it's face when you open the throttle. Too lean up top can damage the motor.

I'm sure you will tune it right. I-beat works but you have to test.

I would try a new battery,have yours load tested.
FI requires a lot of power.
Notice in your vid how it runs better at higher revs, then going slower for a while it starts acting up again.
Would test charging voltage also, seems good as higher revs runs better=more voltage input to bat.
Later George

Okay here is my diagnosis.

Runs much better at 108 101 100, tried going down to 98 on CO1 and it kept getting worse. Seemed to settle in on CO1 108 as the winner. So it runs much better even when at temperature, but gets noticeably worse as it gets hot 100 C on the water temp. My fan does not seem to come on, not sure when it is supposed to. So if it is temperature related how is this solved

Before I set TPS to 102.4 I also cranked in idle air adjustment screw to get to 2200 rpms, that would lean idle out.

Sorry but really disagree wth this. I have a brand new battery in it.

But do you know for sure it's all there, just because it's new doesn't mean it's 100% until tested properly.
Just another senerio to check out.
Just because it starts the bike and runs the lights isn't a true test.
Later George

yeah, but... it's two simple, fast tests: take a voltage, turn the starter (don't start), watch the voltage recover. if it initially reads way above 12 (12.6 or more), and if it recovers to that neighborhood within 10-20 seconds, your battery is good (yours is fine likely). Then check the voltage at idle (14volts) which is a test of your charging system. These super-quick tests are one of the first things you should do on any modern bike diagnostic.

a true load test would put about a 10amp load for about 10 seconds on a motorcycle battery (car is much higher).

The fan should come on by 95-100°C on most huskys I'm familiar with. Try jumping the CTS with a 800-1000ohm resistor to see if the fan comes on. or run 12volts to your fan to make sure it works.

A CTS is under $20USD and a bad one can cause weird voodoo.

Yes battery is fine , checked that early on but thx; It’s a new shorai lithium. Read 13.7 at rest and 14.4 when bike is runnIng. Coolant temp switch I will check next,otherwise wire in a manual on off switch. I am getting close thanks for the input.

well, again- the CTS is first & foremost the ECU's source for temperature readings for mixture/timing control. The fan is sorta a secondary function.

[edit: oops- I mentioned that in another thread. And this is for Mikuni systems; Keihin has a separate temperature switch for the fan]

Did you solve the problem of restarting the bike when it's hot? if so, what was the solution?