New to me TE511!

The next thing I wanted to figure out was the Serial Number of the Power Commander and then research where to get the software for my laptop. I got the serial number and cleaned up some of the wiring and locations. I noticed the plug that basically had a jumper in it. I think this is to keep the computer running in an open loop? Maybe some one can confirm this?

Next I found a hose on a port that looks like it is on the side of the intake running into the engine? There was a piece of wire that was mostly crimping but I think not enough. I thought this was to the smog stuff that has been removed. Maybe charcoal canister? So for Now I put some gasket maker on a screw and screwed it into the hose to close it off for now. I have some rubber caps that I can put on the end if this ends up needing to be capped permanently. Look better than a galvanized screw that will eventually rust.

I found what I needed today and fixed some things. I took the original plastic skid plate and scrubbed it down, maybe restore it and use it for now. I have some black magic restorer laying around and this will take all the dirt and grimey look away. I also cleaned some of the frame and exposed areas while the plastics and skid guard is off. Used some 303 to protect every thing and wipe the hoses down. The 303 really helps keep things looking new because it has uv protectors in it and stuff does not really stick to it. I like my toys to shine. I also got a good bearing of how every thing has been set up. I also changed the air filter to a new one, including grease the outer edges to keep it sealed. My Husqvarna TR650 taught me some good things to help with this bike ironically. Air filter housings sucked in these models. Neat and improved designs but not around long enough to be perfected. I have the original air box housing with no holes, although I broke the tab a little when I was taking the old air filter out. Maybe I will order the new TC air box instead. I think the auto tune will relearn this mod when I do it too.

Doing some more research I found out that the reason every one has been having problems with the tachometer not working on their Voyager is a lack of knowledge to hook a different rpm sensor with resistor and wire to the coil pack red/black off the coil. Hoping this helps and waiting to receive it in the mail. I will add the this wire and post some pictures when I know it works.

Again the research on this is in a different thread. Makes it easier for others to find. http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/te511-voyager-tachometer.88241/

That's the jumper plug leave it in there it's your power up map 2 jumper. Even if reflash to map 3 still leave it in. Second set of pics with screw is smug junk cap it with rubber cap, it's a vacuum opening for smog canister

Thank you for the confirmation!

Well got my double take trail mirror last night. Then today got some more of my ordering. Not every thing for my leds. Although got the cords to work on the power commander. Also got oil filters, rear turn signal leds, and solid state flasher. Tomorrow should get the the front turn signals and wire both sets up.

I think I have some maps that were written by Tinken when he was over at zipty. I'll send them your way if I can find them ... Never mind I see you found them already in the first page.

Tonight I changed the oil and stainless steel oil filter. Figured out how to take the head light assembly off. Took the old turn signals off and wired in the new turn signals. They seem to match the modern straight line type of styling of the bike and like the front and side view the give. Ran into a problem I was not expecting though. The turn signals just stay on and do not blink when I turn on the signals. The regular turn signals worked before wiring the new one?

I do not want to soldier and put heat shrink on the wires yet, just in case. Any one have any ideas? I do have a solid state turn signal flasher that tinkin suggested. As I was expecting to run into the hyper flash problem with running front and rear leds. I did not change it as yet I have to rewire to a 3 prong flasher. I would like to figure out one thing and then go to the next. Just like doing my rear turn signals yet. Here is another picture with the flasher. I am thinking the L prong is where you wire up a second ground to the battery? The positive color and black negative?

Next odd thing. I rode the bike for about 45 miles today, to and from work. When I went to change the oil i noticed what looks like a some radiator fluid coming out of a weep hole? Any one notice this before? Does not look like much actually. It was raining today but it does not look like water splashed up as much as water draining a little down?

Upon further inspection of picture maybe it did splash up and why just a little dirt coming out of hole. If it was really weeping it would not have any black weeping right? lol

Thanks for the thought though! Maybe some thing else will pop up that you can help or I can help you. Never know what some else had to tackle.

I could be wrong but didn't the front stock turn signals stay lit up..anyone? I can't remember but I thought they did and then blinked normal when turn signal switch was turned on. If not I'm assuming they're wired incorrectly or need a relay. As for the weep hole dry the bike and area around hole. Start the bike and let it idle for a bit and see if it's actually antifreeze, if it is it's probably the impeller shaft seal that's letting coolant past to the weep hole. Weep hole is there to let you know if you have a bad seal basically.

Thank you for the fast replay! Well mine did not stay lit up that I originally got the bike with. There were off or they blinked. I did rewire those turn signals to check and they still blinked. The new LED just solid on when I turn the signal on or off when I turn the turn signal off. The turn signals only wire one way as well. If you flip the wires they do not come on at all. So instead of getting typical hyper flash I get the opposite! lol

As far as the weep hole goes, I will have to check tomorrow after the bike dries up and see if it weeps more. Would you be talking about an impeller shaft seal for a water pump? is this common or have you seen it happen with low miles?

Upon some research seems solid on would mean a resister is needed. Just always seen the hyper flash if the led were not going to work. On cars if they were supposed to be solid they will blink but never supposed to blink and solid on. lol

Lol yea not real sure on blinkers but sounds like you may have figured it out. Yes on water pump shaft seal. Yes they go out seems like at about the 4-5 year mark at least on my bikes that were of that age. Others input would be helpful too...

Where is this weep hoe you speak of ? There is a drain hole for the spark plug area so it doesn't hold water.

Here is a couple pictures.

Not sure what that is? The weep hole I thought you were talking about is usually down near the bottom of the water pump cover no where near that other side of the bike. That's on the side of the cylinder. I'm at a loss unless it's threaded and was part of the smog junk that was removed. I don't recall dealing with that hole when I removed smog stuff but it's been almost 4 years since I sold my 449/511's

The hole in the cylinder head just above the cylinder head gasket surface on the left side of the engine shown is a drain hole.
It allows water to drain away from the spark plug area and intersects just above the base of the spark plug hole to drain off any water infiltration that may get past the coil.

As you can see in the provided pictures I've passed a piece of S/S safety wire up through this hole and out the spark plug hole machined into the head.
If you look closely at the last picture of the deck surface and combustion chamber. You can see the wire passing through from the drain passage just above the spark plugs threads.

Thanks Big Timmy! That is what I was leaning more towards because the workshop manuals showed the hole open. ON a side note are you rebuilding your engine or just have that laying around?

So I tried to wire up the TURN SIGNAL RELAY after finding the schematic and figuring out which wire went to where with out a 12v tester. It would have been so much easier if mine did not break a little while ago! I should a picture of the 3 wire relay Tinken suggested that I ordered. Because the picture in that thread do not show any longer I found where to hook up all the wires. The negative went to the negative on the battery, Green/BLack went to the lamps and the blue black to the positive of the relay. Started the bike and nothing. Tried every thing I could think of. Thought maybe the clips did not crimp correctly so used a jumper piece of wire on each female to their corresponding spot did not change anything. Took the relay out and put a jump from green/black to blue/black turn signals stay on like before with the factory relay. Lights wired correctly. the relay says from .02 amps to 20 amps. Maybe just the one signal flasher that is hooked up in the front does not draw .02 amps? Might just wire in a 2 prong flasher instead.

Future Reference Green/Black Strip goes to lamps, Blue/Black strip is the positive. Workshop Manual page M.10

This would make for a clean brake, signal and tag light. NOt sure I dig the brass looking color. Although could probably tape it off and paint it black.