Official SMR 511 Mod thread

just setting up a te511 2011 and I got a set of smr 511 wheels and have the same problem...
having issues bolting up the caliper.
ive noticed the offset on the hub was the issue
and was planning to try and get 4 spot caliper to bolt up but cant and adaptor to suit
anyway how did you go wuth yours..what did u end up doing

Hi I want to find out whether the SMR 511 and the TE 511 have the same gear ratios, I know both have 6 gears. I am looking at changing the SMR wheels and spockets to ride off road. Can some one advice, if so what are the other changers i need to do other than the wheels and spockets.

http://www.ziptyracing.com/te449-511-ecu-upgrade/

Have anyone tried this?

(BMW Map#3 upgrade for off road only Husqvarna 2012-2013 TE 449 2011-2013 SMR/511. After purchasing, there is a downloadable order release form which must be filled out, signed and shipped with your ecu. We will not service the ecu without the order form. *For professional racing off road vehicles only, not for sale or use on California emission controlled street or highway licensed vehicles. TC/TXC's are not updatable.
*** We do not accept 2011 TE 449's. Customer is responsible for return shipping even if no upgrade is installed.)

SMR and TE engines are exactly the same. You also need a bigger front disc and caliper relocator for the SMR wheels.

Can you elaborate on the cam timing changes?

Ditto about cam timing changes ??
Interesting dyno tune graph as my SRM obtained the exact same RWHP result at 47.83

I'm not too sure about Ryan's numbers up there from a stock engine, Husky-Akro, air filter cover and a JD on a TC449- gearing/tires unknown. I agree that you can change the power characteristics from retiming your camshafts, but there's give and take with this. Meaning that you usually loose a lot of bottom end to gain a little on top. This might be something to consider doing to TC cams. For most riders I would spend the energy into a bomb header and silencer, air box coupled with the pcv. This should yield 50-53hp depending on equipment and fuel used.

Picked up my 2011 Smr 449 on the weekend couldn't possibly be happier, previous owner has installed a full exhaust system and the usual race map 2, I'm not much heavier than 60 kilos so I pretty happy with the power I have now, I would love to get some info on how you guys are mounting you license plates just under the rear brake light have you custom made a mount or is there something I can purchase, getting rid if the blue exhaust cap don't worry hahah

The number plate extension can be removed via two bolts when you remove the rear fender.

Most will either screw their plate straight onto the little plastic tongue that the plate fender slides over or they get a bracket to attach to like the ZipTy bracket.

Heres a quick mock up of mine with cable ties.

Thanks for the help mate, my back end looks much better now, I had a bit of a tough time finding a spot for the indicators and ended up blowing a fuse hahaha

Is the same as my TE is set up. A tip is to mount the plate vetical, I found on my TE with the plate mounted horizontal (as in the pic) that when stacking off road the plate would catch and bend. SMR as above no issue (well I think youd have more to worry about anyway when crashing on the road)

Looking much better with a tail tidy and the blue exhaust tip gone,



I need some advice as I wanted to try and see how the bike rides without race map II, I removed the jumper plug bike started just fine sounding a bit lumpier and with lots more backfires than usaul, then I noticed a had an error message on my dash that just read fail, Have I done anything wrong ?

Yes. The bike runs like hammered poo without the race map two.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/20...y-efi-system-finally.41069/page-3#post-402561


will work awesome on your 511.

Cant wait to try it!

Worked fantastic, and the bike is a blast.

1 Issue so far...well 2...1 I wish it had about 5-6 more wheel hp to pull 4-6th with 15/44 gearing. 2) does anyone know how to calibrate the stock speedo/dash for 17's ?

So the throttle flap removal thingy worked fantastically, I am running no airbox just the stock elbow with a uni pod filter and a fmf exhaust. It works great with race map 3 and power commander/auto tune to clean it up as I ride. Suprisingly race map is rich on the upper end/ lean at low throttle. Like -10/20% lean at 5-15% throttle.

Side note, has anyone changed a TE speedometer/dash to supermoto specs so its more accurate??

Also which quick turn throttle is the shortest equivalent turn?

does any one else struggle to get there 511 on the back wheel in gears after 3rd?

yes 3rd is a clutch wheelie, 2nd is power wheelie...40 tooth rear sprocket is what im running, great for highway speeds but you lose some power. as a side not i just put the dirt tires back on and rode it with the stock rear sprocket and holy crap 3rd gear power wheelies are no problem

Even 15/44 and all the mods my bike has, I need to clutch up 3rd. The bike simply does not want to wheelie very easily at all.

My current thoughts on this,

Swingarm length,

Weight distribution,

lack of flywheel and rotating mass such as a drz400 or ktm 505/530 type bikes.

Torque limiter slippage.


These in combination cause a bike that does not "grunt up" like a tractor type thumper. More like a high revving sport bike engine.