Yep, I don't see the point in not replacing the cheapest parts of the bike when due. Sometimes I reuse an old crush washer if I've forgotten to buy new ones, and for this reason when I take one off, I put it on a shelf in the garage just in case. Likewise, when I replaced the oil/filter/washers last week I compared the copper washers I took out to those I put back in. On the tank drain screw washer, there was an obvious mark where the screw had been tightened into it. On the oil drain plug the washer was almost unmarked and I could not pick a difference between the old and the new one.
I'm 4 or 5 oil changes in and never replaced the crush washer... come to think of it I've never replaced a crush washer on any of the 10 motorcycles I've had...
yeah now, brothers. you both get stink eye. Bo da dem bruddahs mean. What think now? You want beef? I'm going to follow the directions you very kind people have posted here and change my own damn oil in the morning. I'm sure I'll post questions.....
Sounds good to me, bbq, grilled, practically served up almost any way. Though I've no idea what your specific reference might be since you are discussing things with people thousands of miles away from you via the internet. Regardless - the screw that is in the inline hose near the valve cover that needs to be removed to do the oil change can be difficult to remove. It took 2 grown men to do that. One with adjustable wrench holding the metal drain cube and one trying to remove the screw from the metal cube - using about all the muscle both of us had. Though yours may be easier to remove from your bike. The screw I am referring to is #3 in this picture:
Mine wasn't quite as tight as that. I held the fitting with a medium pair of channel-lock (water pump) pliers. I put. The Alan key in a pair of vice grips In order to break the seal, I kept the tools close together, perhaps a 5 degree angle to get better leverage. If worse comes to worse, I suppose you can remove the the fitting from the bike by loosening the clamps, but that might make it harder to contain the escaping oil
coffee was right, i can't get that stupid little 5mm plug thing out. one of my girlfriends and I have been working on this for like 2 hours. we put a 5mm allen key soket on the biggest ratchet thing i could find, and then put a big adjustable wrench on the outside of the square thing, but even with her holding the wrench, we need like 3 more hands to make it work...........and i don't wnat to ask any of the guys!! i don't remember who said to get the press-n-seal, but that was such a good idea. mom thought I was nuts, but whatever, it worked really good. so anyway, what happens if we don't take that plug thing out? Can I just fill it up with oil and then run it, and then drain it out again? And we found the big clicker wrench thing (the thing that tells you how tight things are. I don't know what it's called.) It's got a setting for like 3 different sets of numbers, but I don't know what to tell it for any of these bolts. 1. the bolts that hold on the filter cap there's 3 of them in a triangle shape. 2. the bolts that hold on the chain cover thing. (ok, also, that thing was gross on the inside) 3. the big bottom bolt with the little magnet thing on it. ALSO!!! I learned something about cross THREADING the bolts. If you turn them a little bit backwards when you're trying to put them in, and then put them in forwards, they go in straight. YUP, SURFER GIRLS CHECKING OUT THE YOUTUBES FOR MECHANICS!! Also, this whole thing is so gross. I have oil in my goddamn hair. anyway, we're gonna go paddle and then try again later.
The 5mm plug drains the oil from a tank that is built into the chassis. The same tank that the oil fill dipstick is in. So, yes, I would say make sure you drain it. Besides, it'll have to get done sometime, you might as well get 'er done! The bolts have specs, but basically just make 'em snug and then a little more. Maybe a half turn? All you need to do is make them tight enough so they don't leak, nothing more. Also, be very, very, VERY, *VERY* careful not to cross-thread the oil dipstick. It is extremely easy to do, and is quite tricky. Use the trick you discovered, and then press really hard when screwing in to make sure it stays straight. But, be careful! Okay, one more, be careful! Good job so far!
Don't do 1/2 an oil change. If you cannot get the plug out, unscrew the band clam holding that metal block to the hose. Does not matter which band clamp either the one to the left or the right of that metal block. When one of your bros are around have them loosen and re-tighten that, but less tight than it was before.
Just changed the oil on mine. What a mission. The oil tank draining gizmo is a pain in the ass. When filling up again, it seems to go from not registering at all on the dipstick, to suddenly well over the top mark. Had to drain some more out of the tank draining gizmo to lower the level.. hard to put back in while oil is pouring out of it. Off to go clean all the dirt off the bike, and then go for a ride, get a feed, and see if anything is leaking. Had a few metal bits stuck to the magnet on the drain plug too.
Oh yeah, and the dipstick/plug. What a silly design, why is it such a mission to put back on properly.
SURFER GIRL PWAAAR!!! ALL done. We used Michelle's face, both her hands, and my both my hands, PLUS one of my feet, and got that little f***ing 5mm thing free!!! it was comical! we wedged the adjustable wrecnch agsint my arms and the frame, and then pushed the end of the ratched thing with her face, while I was holding her back with my feet. and it came off. FINALLY!! Then we waited and drank a beer while it all drained out into the little bucket. anyway, so then we make sure everythign was all cleaned off and retighted all the bolts and stuff. we didn't use the clicker thing, but hopefully they're all tight enough. so then we poured 1 quart of oil in and then half of another one, but it started to dribble out and made more of a mess i started the bike and let it run for a bit, and then poured the rest of that qurt in, and then 100ml more out of another bottle. IT"S ALL DONE NOW!!! SURFER GIRL CHANGED HER OWN DAMN OIL ! OK, so, now I have to go shower and wash oil out of my hair, becuase the ocean didn't take it out. gross.
I thought it was just empty all the oil, pull out oil filter, shove in a rag as replacement, and shove in some more oil? Nah, I assume you mean the fill it with 1.5 litres, run it for 30 seconds, 500 mls more in, and check again using the normal oil check recipie? Anyways, I put Rimula R3X in for the replacement oil, and I am not sure if it is my imagination, but the engine seems quieter and smoother, and the clutch is definitely smoother. Will be carting my oil change tools around + spare oil and checking for leaks and such over the next 100km or so.
As long as you tightened them up until they're good and tight you shouldn't have a problem. After the oil change just wipe all dirt and oil residue from the engine drain plug and the tank drain plug (the two places where you drained the oil). Now, for the next couple of times you ride the bike, whenever you get off it, just wipe your finger around the drain plugs to make sure there are no drips. I was quite lucky. I was able to get the tank drain screw out without too much trouble, but such a gunshot rang out in the garage when it came loose I thought I'd broken the head off the screw.
It's called my torque wrench which you likely removed from my toolbox. That whole paragraph, just....WTF. Whatever, at least you did it. Ride to the bridge and back and then make sure it doesn't leak.
