Hi Rich, If you have a gas burner of any sort, with pliers heat the washer till it changes colour all over and let it cool in the air and you will find it's all soft and bendy, better at sealing than an new pressed washer, I do this to new washers. 3-5 re-uses FYI.
Yes! Success after about 4 hours of checking Hi Fives instructions. Going to get tools, starting and realizing I didn't have enough tools so back to harbor freight for more tools along with a trip to Dryer yamaha for yamabond and a new pair of gloves, just because! Create a good size oil spill because, well, just because! Visiting with some friends who came over for me to put pedals on their bicycle. Putting it all back together and checking the air filter. Piece O cake! Hope it doesn't rain tomorrow or I'm gonna have to buy rain gear.
I just finished reading the link. Very informative and now I am heading to the local Yamaha dealer for Yamabond. I have always used blue loctite on drain bolts to avoid over-torque damage, but I am out, so I will give the Yamabond a try.
Today my bike has received a 2nd oil change at 6k miles; the first oil change was done by the dealer at 800 miles. After unscrewing the magnetic drain plug, I've realized that it was covered with metal shavings. Should there still be metal shavings present on the 6k oil change?
The shop did mine at 600 miles and I did my own oil change at 3000miles. At 3000 miles there were a very small number of minute shavings on the sump plug magnet. The magnet is so strong and they were so small it was almost impossible to remove them. I would not be surprised if they had remained on the magnet when the shop mechanic cleaned the plug at the 600 mile service.
Ye they were tough to get off, needed to wipe it off multiple times to get those spikey little bastards off . One ride after my first personal oil change, I've noticed I'm getting a leak from the filter oil cap. The Kn-151 filter that I've purchased was a little bit different from the original. The open end greatly differed between each filter. It didn't have that movable ring around the opening and the inside was different. It also took a little push in order to get the oil filter cap on and now I'm thinking maybe I've damaged the O-ring trying to force the cap in place or something. Warning! Total newb question incoming! Is it possible to inspect the O-ring or change the oil filter to OEM without going through the whole process of draining all the oil again, or will all the oil just gush out after I take off the oil cap? UPDATE: It turns out the oil doesn't gush out when you open the oil filter cap . The O-ring was fine, it was the kn-151 filter's fault. I've inserted the old OEM filter for the time being and will install the new OEM filter once I get the chance to stop by the dealer.
K&P make a stainless reusable filter - in Oz from Jay's Automotive - better filtration improved flow Also, I fitted a Tee piece in the oil line, lead to the RH Safari tank bracket, fitted with a cap, makes oil changes easier 2.3litres motorex full synthetic
Actually, to anneal copper correctly is to heat until dull red colour then immerse immediately in cold water
The Safari tanks restrict access to the Oil Tank drain, I fitted a Tee-piece & a tail down to the righthand Safari bracket, thus ensuring that the hose was clear of the exhaust I also, use a Stainless Steel K&P oil filter, in Oz available from Jay's automotive in Sydney - improved filtration & flow & easy to clean
