One hole too many

I was lucky enough to find the same damage to my clutch basket ring gear on my 1988 400, I replaced it with a good second hand basket as I couldn't convince myself that it wouldn't keep on putting metal through the gearbox.
Tony.

Premo, Here is a pic of the hole from the inside.

Please send me the title to the thread. My search came back with lots of good discussions, but none specifically on my "notched" gear.

Good point! I'll start looking.

I'm not sure if this is the thread that 2premo was thinking of?

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/88-400wr-clutch-basket.80994/

Thanks Tony! That must be the one. What do you think caused the damage in your case?

that was definitely one of the threads
but there was a picture of the same one on more recent thread

if you want to change it out, count your teeth on the basket, I have a really nice one
if interested PM me

I think it was an incorrectly assembled kick starter that caused the damage, but if you read the thread it explains it as well as I could at the time.
My primary and clutch were 33/76 from memory. Yours may be very different.
Tony.

Sorry, I saw the great write up you did when I finally read the rest of the thread. I'll have to be careful on disassembly, so I put it back together correctly. I'm still trying to figure out how much to remove from the cover to avoid all the heat damage from getting the welding done...

there are a number of threads on the kickstart issues, that is a BIGGIE with these 82-88 kickstarter design, very important to get the spring and pawl set up correct
take a hard look at your pawl while you have it open

JB is excellent when surfaces are prepped properly prepared and the JB is sealed with epoxy if the gloss has been broken. If the gloss is broke, JB will absorb oil or what ever liquid is present and start to soften.

If you search for my thread "Another WRX saved from the scrap heap" someone linked the Huskydoggg video on Pawl assembly on that thread (towards the later half).

Since the bike is new to you, there are two roller bearings under the clutch cover that most guys recommend replacing (kicker gear and idler gear). the kicker gear spring will basically fall out of the bike, so if you've got a good bearing shop locally, they likely have it or can recommend how to find two. The bearings are sold by ID, OD and Length, so you'll want to mic the kicker shaft OD and gear ID (or take those parts with you, in my experience, if you're not familiar to the bearing shop, they may want to mic the parts themselves). The kicker gear and idler gear both take the same size bearing. It'll probably mic a little bit shorter than it's list length.

Previously stated, but that is a mag cover. You can get cast aluminum replacement from HVA Factory, but the cost is up there. If you look at the pic of the cover on their site, you can see the extra hole in the cover near the kicker. It's not a problem to put an aluminum cover with the extra hole on the bike (but if you are able to get it repaired, and don't have particular concerns over appearance, I'm right with you on fixing the cover).

The mag covers do sometimes wear around the kicker shaft, so make sure it's a tight fit (doesn't wobble). I sent a mag cover to Rick Hovart (Husqvarna-outlet) to get that hole sleeved, and fix a hole in the cover last year, but he did take almost 9 months to get it back to me. Maybe he's less behind now? A machinist friend can probably sleeve the cover for you if you need it.

The shifter and water pump line up with the little lines on their related stubs on the engine side. That can be a pain for getting things lined up when putting it together! If you can't get the gap to close, you may need to spin the impeller and/or shifter slightly until you find a match. Probably a good idea to replace the bearing and seal for the water pump. If the wrong coolant has been used, the pump seat may have corrosion.
Also, the shift return spring can become sprung. When putting the cover on there's a hole in the gasket that corresponds with the rod coming out of the lower rear portion of the clutch cover. The legs of the shift return spring should be clear of that hole when the bike is in neutral.

Don't over-tighten your clutch.

There, that's about everything I've ever screwed up on my own clutch covers. Hope it helps!.

Wow. Lots of good info there. Thanks! Always good to learn from another's experiences.

Finally got back in the garage and pulled the basket out. It's 17/076. See below:

I've decided to try the JB weld fix first. I'll post an update when completed.

Thanks for all the replies!

that appears to be an 85 CR500 4 speed clutch basket

measure the OD of the kicker gear on your basket

Looks like it's 50.74 mm, give or take a few hundredths depending on where measured.

Also, can anyone steer me to the thread for torque values for this '85 400 motor, for when I start to button it up?

Thanks in advance.

Suprize, are you saying the bike is designed so that the clutch cover is the stop for the kicker?

what he is saying you don't need to remove them
but the kicker if removed allows the spring to unwind, which requires a proper set up on pawl and pre wind of spring