Oval Case Motors

More pics.

The rim manufacturer still exists. Don't know where to find them in the US. Buchanans may be able to order them.

http://www.radaellicerchi.com/inglese/catalogo/pag_moto/cat_moto.htm

http://www.motocicliveloci.it/inglese/catalogue/cerchiradaelli_uk.htm

Thanks Crash GREAT info. I was thinking of sending them to Sams Chrome in Pittsburg, but I think that will be very expensive. One of my friends has a son-in-law in Italy, I think I'll call him.

I'm about ready to tackle the 1st 1971 360c enduro! I've got the bearings, seals and gaskets for this 8-speed. But after looking and riding it up the street, I'm not sure I should go for the Full Monte! It looks kind of pure and worn like it is, but I can see it all fancy and new! Or should I say re-done? It's got all the right things going for it no matter what I do, but I am still in the fence. What do you guys think? Chris

Some more pics , I'm looking for an original tail light and the steel fenders and horn. Probably some other stuff too. If you have one let me know. Chris

You need to give more consideration to what you want to do with it. Do you want to ride it without the worry of screwing up the paint if you fall over? Is it meant to just look at and ride 100ft each month? Are you going to ride it a lot requiring dependability and good suspension? Are you prepared to sink $4k into it or only $500? There are many options and only you know what suits your fancy.

Pulled the motor and got the wires and cables around the bars. Pulled the head and cylinder, my new piston looks good and the cylinder is clean as it was recently honed. The head has a 2nd hole for a compression release, what a bear to get out. I'll use that head for the other bike and use the other bikes here. I think I am going to rebuild the motor and clean the rest up to the best of my ability. Still looking for the steel fenders and tail light. If I'm not happy when I'm done, I'll make a decision then. Is the left case aluminum? I need the weld up the kick stop.

The clutch side case is aluminum. Finding OEM fenders will be virtually impossible. You may have to go with european aftermarket stainless or aluminum fenders. Thats whats used on the Cross models although the Sportsman fenders will be longer. Check out restored pics online and see whats being used and go with something close to those.

Tried to pull the ignition rotor and it was a b...ch. Found the rotor was WELDED in 3 places?? WTF could have caused that? I pulled this ignition and tested it on the lathe, then reassembled it and I started the bike and temporarily ran it finding it needed new crank seals. Then pulled the motor for rebuild. Looking at the cam end of the rotor you can clearly see 3 blue hot spots, how could this ignition create that much voltage? Femsa' are known for low voltage NOT WELDING Amps. Some pics. If anyone has seen it before i could use some advice. Chris

Also what is this cut out in the crank bearing for? Both of mine pint to the center of the crank. I thought this was discussed before but cannot fine the post.

Ball filling slot... only found on higher radial load rated bearings with the maximum number of balls

https://www.skf.com/group/products/...groove-ball-bearings/filling-slots/index.html

I had the same type damage on a 79 crank stub and Motoplat flywheel, don't know what causes it.

I thought they were for oiling the bearing and had to be in a certain position. Glad to know I am incorrect. Thanks Mark

I cleaned up both tapers with valve compound and will reassemble it to the manual. It's a little disconcerting, that joint at the taper should not have voltage going thru it. Maybe the flywheel(I've been calling a rotor) was not tight enough? All the wires and connections in that cover are normal and clean. If that happened there whose to say it won't happen to the crank bearing? I think I'll call John at VH and see if he has an idea.

http://www.cafehusky.com/attachments/img_20190824_134250-jpg1-jpg.96974/
The flywheel crank stub on my 400 has the same deterioration as yours does, unclear what causes it. Also used valve compound on it and the flywheel. Been working well for years.

Lower case assembly.

Got the left cover welded where the kicker broke the rubber stop well, and dressed it up. Looks like it's ready for paint and install. Gotta finish cleaning the rest of the bike, and get some fenders. If anyone has some steel fenders for this let me know. I've got funding!!

More pics.

Looks very good Chris! I have had to do the same thing on some of my 420 auto clutch covers. I wonder how many of the aluminum side covers have been thrown away over the years that could have been repaired and saved?!!!

Marty

Thanks Marty, I imagine there are a ton of them still out there with the well damaged, hell I have 2 more. But trying to find a 8-speed cover to replace it is almost impossible. Once it's painted I'll never know. I think the magnesium ones are the ones that never get welded.

Aluminum is fun to work with. Easy to weld and it can be made to look damn close to original with nothing more than a rasp and sand paper. The brass dowel you used worked out well.

Whats wrong with the fenders at Vintage Husky?

Speed and Sport has what appears to be a long rear alloy fender. Says the end is rolled. If you're concerned with the shape of the rear end just contact Matt and ask. Hes always been helpful to me.

https://www.speedandsport.com/index.php/parts/fenders/alloy-fenders/