FE/FC OW40 Mobil 1 Oil

I change my trans oil or engine oil every ride regardless of brand... just how I am... I figure for $5 worth of oil can save your ass big time if you find something on a routine oil change....

I decided to try the 0w40 after 8 years of 15-40 delo/rotella/supertech. I have been happy with the 15-40 and have many many hours on it on 3 bikes with no oil related failures changing the oil between 10-15 hours. I have an hour meter on every bike. I have never been happy with the 144 as far as shifting goes, not sure why but it is not as smooth as my other bikes. I am hoping this will improve that.

I hope I can avoid this also and actually get a decent start at this years hangover scramble...

It seems like it doesn't matter what bike I am on I am one of the last off the line.

The sub 40° temperatures sitting on the line cooled the bike down pretty fast.


Later,

8 yrs 0 issues and change? is it possible your shifting issue is something else? mine shifted perfect on Rotella

Haha, yep. It is worth a try, not sure the difference between my 2009 and 2013 but the 2009 with 317 hours on it shifts better than the 2013 with 50 hours. It could be something in the shift drum/forks but trying a different oil is quicker than splitting the cases. It is an easy test.

Later,

I deburred the shifter ratchet mechanism on my 07 and helped a lot with missed shifts and notchy shifting. Pretty easy and don't have to split the cases.

Heh, you'd be suprised how many racers are using Maxilube now. Whenever we find something new, all the teams have to have it. Some of the new Husky's have transmission issues, and some have clutch issues. Seems to be that Maxi is coming to the rescue.

I been using the Mobil 15-40 delvac the heavy duty million mile trailer truck oil in my farm equipment my other hobbie it seems to work well. I try to use a extreme pressure lube.

Did the oil companies remove the additive that lubes the clutch discs in the past years?

I use moly during all my assemblies. I use the moly additive in my equipment. They also manufacture it for motorcycles but I never tried it yet.

Www.tsmoly.com

Yes, they removed most of the molybdenum disulfide from motor oil. It is detrimental to wet clutches.

Moly,

Eliminates all wear
Reduces friction
Prevents galling
Fights corrosion
Stays were we put it.

I use it in every metal to metal contact situation.

and bad for your clutch fibers....

We used to use Molybdenum disulphide in our suspension systems, never in wet clutched engines. We now use M1/Maxilube red grease for our engine assembly lube which can handle much greater pressures than moly.

I got myself a new 2014 FE250....will be doing the first oil change relatively soon now...so just for re verifying is this the right one..

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Mobil-1-0W-40-Advanced-Full-Synthetic-Motor-Oil-5-qt./23636902

and don't forget the maxi-lube i whipped up my M1/Maxi-lube 2days ago Tinken's right that is some slick shit and HELL to wash off

where does this Maxilube go...as an additive to the oil in put in the motor and how much of it if i have to put it..

http://maxilube.com/

Maybe a little fastidious but you are completely correct, a little bit of maintenance in the workshop saves a lot of hassle on the side of the trail or track. The only problem I have found with constant maintenance particularly oil changes is to not get complacent, its very easy to forget something simple such as replacing the sump plug correctly or putting in a filter the wrong way etc. Many a time I have gone to start a bike and forgot to pull the rag out of an airbox and wonder why it doesnt start. It is good to develop a procedure and follow it the same way each time.
On the point of this oil - there are many using it with good long term results, even if for example it is a few notches short of the best stuff, you know it is better to change good oil regularly than to let great to oil circulate round and round and fill up with carp.