FE/FC OW40 Mobil 1 Oil

I use Penrite HPR Diesel 15-50 on both the 350 and all motor cars...IMO, if you aint racing or giving the bike a hard time (on the limiter and clutch abuse) and changing oil and filter every 5-10 hrs, any quality semi synthetic oil with JASO MA rating and your good to go?

Waiting to see what they come back with on price. I've only placed the order pending cost. If its going to cost $100 or over I may as well buy bloody motorex.

Valvoline synpower 0W40, 5W40 etc could be a cheaper alternative. Can check a few recommendations on their website here: http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/valv_auMS/default.asp
I don't think the 310 is listed but the tc250 is.

I wouldn't buy motorex if I can avoid it. The product is not better than anything else (personally I believe worse) and the price... are they mad??
Their chain lube is worthless unless you want to grease the frame, seat....
The brake fluid was rank after a few months (dry climate here, so no moisture) and the clutch fluid both in the husky and the SD1290 the same.
Changed it all to Elf 5.1 and the clutch fluid (magura clutch on the 1290 to LHM). Good ever since.
Elf chain lube is great too, when dry you can touch it and it doesn't fling off, if not overly muddy or bad conditions it's still on after a wash and can stay on for another ride. No rust, no wear.

Bloody hell bikesparky are you sponsored by Elf

I wish!!
Just dislike overpriced shit like Motorex. Retail $116 for 4 L you're kidding right!!! Does it have gold in it and how much?
Oil from Switzerland, they don't even have oil there!
I used silkolene for ages and again both the oil and chainlube is really good.
Then I discovered that In NZ and OZ you could get this Total and Elf (same manufacturer) from a local distributor.
Stumbled across it as I was looking for Citroen LHM oil which is the same as the Magura blood in the KTM magura clutches but at a fraction of the price (I'm a cheap ass).
Been using it ever since and could afford another bike with the savings over shitorex!

I wish the 4t engines had seprate oil compartments. The tranny is getting all the heat.

I think I read once that Shell Rotella goes by the name Rimula in OZ.

According to Shell Australia, Rimula is a different oil to Rotella T which is a US Based oil according to them...reading all the responses l'd interpret the Shell spokemen as "we don't label our Shell diesel oil in cars and motorcycles, only trucks", some aussie guys report that Rimula X works fine in their road bikes?

The hondas do and they blow up all the time. Either the valves drop or 5th gear lets go and says hello hatching trough a hole in the casing

The tranny are only gears and they help to cool the rest down, it gives the engine increased oil capacity.
One thing I have to give credit to KTM for is the engine design, easy to work on and they designed a lot of things properly.
Did the valves on the 501 yesterday, takes an hour and all within tolerance after 60 hours. Did one inlet as it was just on the minimum spec, which I don't like, so I put a one size smaller shim in.
All looks proper clean and no wear at all.

Anyway back to tread... I use ELF...

So the majority are using the Mobil 1 Ow40 european oil? Just ready to do my first oil change. 2015 FE350

Use whatever oil makes you sleep good at night.

I have used nothing but Bel-Ray and Maxima for last 40 years, no probs whatsoever. Decided to try Mobil and have been using it for awhile now in all my bikes ( Bultacos, '84 Huskys and RMZ450 ) works great and the cost-savings is great

I put it in last night. Bike sounds good and clutch feels good. Ill update after some time.

$110 AUD for 5 liters of the Mobil 1 over here. So instead I bought some Penrite 10w40 full synthetic at half the cost for the BMW to try it out. Was going to get 10w50 as it likes slightly thicker oil when warm but we're coming into winter, and anyway this oil was only $60 for 4L and was on the shelf with JASO and MP ratings.