I think if the Dynojet as a completely new high performance ECU with no restrictions and fed information by a far better O2 sensor. The factories would probably do it just like this if their hands were not tied by regulations. Some of the new MX bikes have plug in chips with different programs on them so they change just be changed out for different power characteristics. How cool is that? Yamaha has a cool plug in tool for track side programming.
I think I may bite the bullet and buy the PCV, possibly with the 2pos switch. Can some of you with PC experience answer my questions. 1. I want to get the 2 position switch to change mapping on the fly. First though does anyone know how many maps are available for the terra? For example a performance map for when I want to tear the shit out of the bike and another map for fuel mileage for when I want to go on a hwy cruise. 2. Does the PCV clean up the factory idol issue, without needing the Moss treatment? KCCO
Alan I've just ordered one for my Terra and was told there are no maps for it, so I'll have to go to a dyno to have it set up Scotty
If someone sets it up with an auto tuner, that person can share their map to defray dyno costs for others.
Odd did you get it direct from Dynojet? Mine was for sure a TR650 map and directions. The distributors don't have them (as they did not order any) but i can get them.
http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/23-012/maps/M23-012-001.pvm Whoever told you that wasn't telling you the truth and/or wants your money.
Personally, after doing much work on PC V & Auto tune on the other bikes circa 2009, I would start out with a blank map and let the Autotune make the map. The Autotune actually adjust things to how a person rides and other indiocyncrasis (sp?) to a specific bike.
Totally agree. I originally downloaded the map for my bike but it still wasn't quite right in the low/mid range. I turned on the autotune and problem solved. I just leave the autotune on all of the time. The weather/elevations while riding here change at the drop of a hat and my bike never misses a beat.
Hi Motosportz I ordered it through my local bike dealer here in the UK . They contacted a Dynojet dealer who said there would be a 2 to 3 week wait. Scotty
Just for a complete noob with PC/AT - if I change the muffler on my Terra (possibly into 2-in-1 solution), will the PC/AT combo solve my mapping issues ? ie putting it the other way - what things/elements to consider while replacing exhaust myself ?
As far as I know, the PC/AT will compensate for anything you want to do. I've done a fair bit of PCV/AT work circa 2009.
yes, the PCV and AT will work to keep your bike at a predetermaind air fuel mixure regardless of what you do to your bike. Will try to compensate for anything, exhaust, airbox mods whatever. that's what the autotune feature is for.
Factory bung is 18mm x 1.5, so the Bosch LSU 4.2 wideband o2 sensor will thread right in. I just fit my PC5 over the weekend, and although I didn't get around to installing the AT module and sensor, I did unplug the OEM sensor (per instructions) and removed it from the bike. I then plugged the sensor bung with a 18mm x 1.5 plug (and copper washer).
My Dynojet PC5 install. In order to remove the right fairing, you must remove the fuel cap and fuel tank fill cover. Mine was a fairing was a little finicky / tight, but after a little massaging it popped off. There's a screw that's actually underneath, right about where your right calf muscle would be sitting on the bike.....don't missing that one. Luckily my 6 year old son's vantage point was a bit more conducive to discovering that one Mounting and grounding easy enough. Now for the lack of pictures, and most difficult part of the install. Unplug the OEM injector connector and then rotate the injector connector towards the front of the bike. This would take it from the 3:00 o'clock position to the 1:00 o'clock position. Doing this allows you to fish the 2 wires for the crank pickup and the pair of connectors for the TPS down between the frame / injector / throttle body. Plug in the PC5 injector connector to the OEM injector, and the OEM injector connector into the PC5 mating injector connector (interception junction) Remove the regulator rectifier cover and module itself to give yourself a little more clearance and try, try, and try again to remove the OEM TPS connector. Not bad. Now for the most difficult part of the install, trying to get the PC5 TPS connector back on the TPS sensor. This took me a little while, but armed with a pair of long screwdrivers I was able to use them like a surgeon with a pair of chop sticks to get the alignment, and then levered it up to hear a "snap"......ah, success. Plug in the OEM TPS connector to the mating TPS connector on the PC5 With the regulator rectifier out of the way, you can easily get to and work with the crank pickup wires. Use the supplied taps and follow the instructions. I taped mine up nicely, but I may go back and seal these up with a little silicone as an added measure to prevent corrosion / intermittent circuit. Move to the other side of the bike and give the OEM sensor harness a little tug. It's captured in a zip tie of sorts, but it should tug free to release the entire connector assembly. Once you have the connector assembly free, simply release the tang and unplug. Put the reg / rect back on, along with cover and then replace the fairing. Replace the fuel filler cover and fuel cap, and finally the seat. Vroom Vroom......fired right up cold, and then after decent warm up cycle I did a quick test drive. It definitely has better response off idle, and seems much happier when making low speed maneuvers / blipping the throttle where you're feathering the clutch....if that makes sense. Next up Autotune install, along with the LCD-200. I'll be able to share logs of the drive cycles I gather (LCD-200), and I'll be happy to share my "custom tune" that the AT helps me to generate. I normally ride between 4000' and 6500', so how close it will be for you guys closer to sea level, I don't know.
My experience with the PC5 is also to go into thru the USB port/cable and put in criteria for learning etc by setting the timer to to 300 seconds. This allows for it to wait til the bike is warmed up to start programming. Had to do that with the one on my Yamaha. Not sure if that has to be done on all of them? Hopefully, this is making sense. Thanks My next purchase for the TR is the PC5.
Partially stealing an idea from RidingDonkeys.... The PCV has the ability to hold 2 different base maps. You can switch on the fly between these two base maps when you hook up a switch to the MAP inputs. You can use any open/close type switch. The polarity of the wires is not important. When using the Autotune kit one position will hold a base map and the other position will let you activate the learning mode. When the switch is "CLOSED" Autotune will be activated. RD shared this link http://www.trailtech.net/040-HBS-01.html on another forum and I got to thinking that wouls be great to use with the PCV and A/T setup!
No steal here, I have no clue how the PCV/Autotune work. I just wanted to turn off my lights. But now I get what you were talking about. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why you wanted a power switch for your PCV.
Yeah, that switch makes for a VERY clean install...but man, Trailtech wants $10 shipping on that $20 (~1 lb.) part That has to be an error and I will be call them to make sure.
