NICE! But don´t you find the 630 just a bit too H E A V Y ? If the new owner comes out with something lighter, with a smaller turning circle (more agile) and without needing too much maintenance ... I´ll trade in my 630.
Yeah, it definitely isn't the easiest bike to throw around! It's not the best track bike and it's not the best touring bike but it sure is a lot of fun in a lot of different types of riding!
Ok .... but my needs are for a lightweight bike with plenty of power, on moto wheels that´s very agile in urban traffic that´ll get me through the thickest traffic jam to be in front at the next red light so that I´ll be way out ahead when it turns to green. The 630 has the power (now that it´s been p/ued and got the Arrows and ECU) but is too heavy and the turning circle is larger than a WWII tank. At least I´ve got rid of most of that white plastic. that white
Turning circle is only large if you're going slow The more you lean, the tighter the radius gets, even at parking-lot speeds. Only time the limited turning bugs me is in the garage shuffling things around, but even then I usually just spin it around on the kickstand
Have you tried trimming the steering bump stops on the tripple clamp above the front mud guard. ? I trimmed the bump stops on my TE630 and SMS630 and both bikes now turn in nice and tight. I used a Dremmel hand grinder with a 90 degree attachment to trim the stops on the tripple clamp. Only thing I had to dismantle was the headlight.
+1 on the Arrows + ECU, they give the bike both bark and bite. Did them to both my 630's, Best and most expensive farkle ever.
No, I haven´t done that as I thought that HVA had calculated the stops so that the steering wouldn´t hit the fairing. Were there any probs? and how much did you take off?
I think HVA may have left the turning circle wide so as to leave enough fork - tank clearance for guys who wanted to fit bigger tanks like the Safari. Maybe. The stearing stops on the tripple clamp angle downwards, ie they are thicker at the bottom than at the top. I took off about 0.75mm at the top and cut straight downwards with a very thin (0.6mm) cutting disk, resulting in about +1.5mm being taken off at the bottom. After that I still had a healthy bit of fork - tank clearance which I left as is as I was more than happy with the new turning circle. Rather start by taking off too little than too much. Then check the fork - tank clearance and then take off a bit more if you wish etc etc. It is very simple really and the final result is well worth it. If you do not dismantle the tripple clamp then you have a very tight area to work in. Also the cutting disk often catches and bounces and anything nearby can get nicked and cut by the cutting disk, so I thickly duct taped the neck of the frame and the fork tubes and any other nearby exposed areas in the cutting environment. For the downward cut, the standard hand grinder was ok, but for the bottom horizontal cut I found that I absolutely needed a 90 degree attachment for my Dremmel hand grinder.
Taking a quick nap to smooth out the clutch basket. Also replaced the bronze bushing, but the spring cups still looked new after over 8k miles, so i held off on doing them for now. I've got new ones and rivets already though.
Yes ... you´re the one who made me do it. And then I applied the side stickers to liven the design up a bit. Think it now looks the pants (except for the bike´s design that could look a bit more SM motoish and less heavy). But the öocal BMW shop that also does Husky is very impressed.
So, I'm thinking about stripping the Plasti-dip and wrapping it. Either a midnight digital camo, or a red camo to keep the husky colors, what do you think? Something like what lonexb did:
