Thanks. The fairing is Lynx from BrittaniaComposites in Canada - it's quite widely used on quite a few bikes. The size is just right for me, however it is made from fiberglass and on that ride in Kaokoland the bottom of the fairing did collapse as a screw got lose and eaten through the fairing. Easily fixable though. Suspension: rear shock is standard just set-up for my riding, forks are standard ones quite modified. Unfortunately I do not understand the suspension stuff, but the guy who did it said something about adding compression circuit or some such thing. It performs much better than stock - it is much more progressive soaking up small quick hits, while still hard enough not to bottom easily.
Probably retrofitted the compression adjusters on the bottom - had Superfoxi do mine - late models did not have them OEM. Brit Composites have a new model fairing now for those interested. I have stuck with my BMW 650 Dakar three hole dark screen and happy.
Yea sounds like the 610 adjusters can be retrofitted, I'll take them to a suspension wizard when I've got the cash. I cut a piece of quad bike mud flap for a fairing extension, It's amazing the difference it makes.
The modifications to my bike means that I have no steering lock any more, as it was ground off to fit the nav-tower. The ignition barrel was relocated to the side of the nav-tower but as it was in full view, and the wiring easily accessible, all it really served to do was give me somewhere safe and secure to put the key to the fuel cap. It also fouled the fork leg at full lock. Not a lot, but enough to annoy me. As I've got one of those shexy billet screw caps on it's way to me, I decided to get rid of the ignition barrel. What to replace it with tho? I have a plate below the clocks on the nav tower which is where the switches for the auxiliary fuel pump and cooling fan are located. There's a couple of spare switch holes so I decided to use one. I used a DPST toggle switch and fitted it with a 'missile switch' cover. The cover normally has it's 'safe' position so that the switch is off, but I just clipped off the locating tag and mounted it 180degrees so that the safe position is with the ignition on. This means it's very unlikely that the ignition will be knocked off by accident while riding. As an aside, making the bike totally key-less meant I had to consider the seat lock. I just removed the barrel and ran the pull cable along the back of the bike so it exits just above the exhaust under the rear mudguard. It's out of site but easily accessible, and just needs a tug on the end to pop the seat.
I would guess its a Hyde racing bash plate. Good, but I wouldn't use one. I mangle aluminum one so plastic one would never hold up for me
Too angular for a Hyde, it's welded and painted. The Hyde isn't really a "bash plate" but it keeps rocks off the case and will save your side covers in a slide. (Ask me how I know...)
It's a force one.Aussie made alloy and one bolt for quick removal. http://www.forceaccessories.com.au/store/index.php?_a=viewProd&productId=139
Thanks for the link, I've had a stick through the hole in my OEM plate, lucky it was a bit rotten and broke off so a decent plate is next on the list. Can you let us know if you have any issues with it. Cheers
No issues.The one bolt has stayed in place and plate is rock solid. Here's the mounting bracket that comes with the bashplate
Great pic of my 630 from http://www.wilkinsonphotography.com.au/Portfolio/Adventure-Motorcycle from a recent ride
It's hard to tell from pic on my iPhone. I saw black and figured it was hyde. After looking again I see the angles.
