Poll - 449/511 EFI butterfly removal

The other thing to consider is that Tinken's 511 is highly modified, putting out "60 HP". Now, if my bike put out those kinds of numbers I might not mind having a secondary butterfly that smoothed things out a bit.

As far as the flameouts being an FMF PC4 problem... I can tell you, it did make it worse, but my 511 nearly killed me with flameouts with the stock muffler and RaceMap 3. The PC5 solved it 99%, but it wasn't till I pulled the butterfly that I realized what it was like to ride without the fear of flameouts.

Yes, it is said, "Power is nothing without control"!

Agree on the FMF idea, I can see it making it worse.
My own TE has only the supplied Akro slip-on & is otherwise standard.
All the running faults have been there since day one & no faulty ecu components have been found (other than the mapping).

I personally wish I had 60hp...or even 50 to the wheel would be nice....Need more PEAK rpm for my supermoto to pull the higher spacing in 4th 5th 6th....without gearing it down anymore...I think that is the 2 quams now with my bike as 100% supermoto.

Slightly heavy overall weight. Loss of 15lbs would be perfect!

About 5-8hpish down from where I would want it to be. (but I would want power above 7k where I can hold lower gears a bit longer )

The butterfly removal and all that has given it plenty of down low snap. It feels much faster and more fun to ride, but I doubt added any power.

I doubt it should add power either.
The butterfly, edge on at full power should be the same as just the shaft & nothing else changed.
As you say, the snap to attention down low & mid range is what you notice most.

What harmful long term effects could happen?

Interesting. My 11 TXC 449 with just the swish cheese mod to the air box felt much snappier and stronger than the 12 TC 449 I rode at the nw gathering. The TXC 449 also felt much snappier and lighter than the modded TE 449's that I have ridden.

I read the TE 449 guys having flame out issues. My TXC 449 has been flawless. Runs great at any rpm

Respect to Dangermouse449, Motosportz and everyone else (you all deserve credit) that has removed the FBW butterfly. But I need facts like mid to full power rear wheel HP difference before and after removal - it is expensive but can anyone in this global community report the dyno test impovement?

Can the TXC map set be loaded into a TE then??

Just removed my second throttle butterfly. I can't really tell a difference from the short blast I just did but I'm sure it is better. Real standout will be when I race next.

SMR449 2011
TC airbox
Titanium Akra full race exhaust
PCV ZipTy Burson Map

Haha I love the sceptics here. .. guys lets put this into perspective. If you want more power air fuel re map and exhaust will give u SOME! If you want more power start saving and do some engine mods... or get a bigger bike...lol.
Now the mod in my opinion works well if you suffer from flame outs and hate the engine brake prob this mdl husky suffers from. I did it and love the bike now. But I don't think it creates more power just simply response.
Long term I can't see it causing any issues... my credentials are 27 years of mechanical and electrical.

Ohh and btw... it now kicks my older bikes ass te410 whole heap of mods and dyno run 59 hp.

Just my 2 cents.

You are right, it doesn't make more outright power.

It let 's you use all of what should be available but is held back by software(why) in the part throttle settings.
And stop the flame outs & run-ons.

I just got the akro map loaded today will test on a 70km ride tmrw I'm sure it will be flawless

Where are you going ? are u on the Wombat ride with DIRTRIDERZ ?

Yes we are

cool then , c u there ! both of you ? Whats your nick name at the Dirtriderz?

Huskyboy410 of corse. ..lol see you there

I do not think Zip-ty or tinken is ever misleading anyone. The way I made my bike work with the factory throttle body setup was to follow TINKENS guidelines. I had NO MORE FLAMEOUTS!

In the dirt several rides with no stalls or issues. This was with fmf open powercore 4 and a very vented airbox!

I did race map 2, power commander and auto tuner and the bike worked great! As it was suggested it would. I could have rode like that forever it worked fantastically actually with lots of power.

WITHOUT EVER TOUCHING THE ENGINE/THROTTLE BODY.

GREAT IN THE DIRT! I AM A DIRT NOOB AND THE SMOOTHE POWER AND CTS MEANS I COULD TRACTOR UP ANY HILL WITHOUT ANY SKILL. EVERYONE SAID IT WAS "DIAL A RIDE" VERY VERY VERY EASY TO RIDE!

But if you look at the threads I have posted you will see me asking questions about removing the butterfly because when coming out of corners geared up or lazily I would hit the throttle wide open and the bike would not react quickly. First I thought slipping clutch, then I thought torque limiter, but I quickly realized it was the throttle body opening slowly (not good for supermoto where you need snap to clear a jump or increase engine rpm's fast). Then dangermouse posted his thread whilst I had my bike apart which convinced me that my thinking was 100% spot on.

I took the butterfly off and the bike became instantly much much more responsive, and the feeling I had before is gone. This is what the butterfly did for me. Also I believe now I can lower the engine idle slightly without stall on deceleration or with instant blips of the throttle.

Very good for supermoto and solved my lack of engine response problem.

Also the iridium plug is a cheap and very good upgrade. It works and doesn't foul as easily. It is a common thing in the bike world to change the plug. Also the factory plug is quite shrouded due to the 2 strap layout. So I am sure that also helps to propagate a nice flame.


All in all there should be absolutely no resentment to Tinken or zip-ty as they told us how to make it work without removing anything from the bike. Yes this has improved it further, but it was not widely tested here until recently.


Also just because you have a catch can does not make it a breather, if you push enough oil up then the vaccum from the airbox will suck the oil in. When you return to idle or turn off the bike the oil will drain back down. The proper way is to not only have vaccum but also an additional return line so when running very high rpm you do not end up pushing oil up faster than it can return. Also when you drop the bike it has a chance to return to drain before it sucks it into the airbox. (ask me how I know).

Also if you look at tinkens drawing you can see why it is good to relocate the breather from the crank to valve cover. This is good as hopefully there is enough airspace for the return air from the piston to find its way up through the cam chain area instead of going through the torque limiter. It makes sense if you look at it.