Now I understand why your location is "where we would least expect": you're a cop! Are you saying that this prevents this from moving aside? I didn't know that! I have to say that, without the cover, my shifter shaft can rotate like this without moving aside, but I've never tried to force it.
Yep! And don't try to force it, you might develop a leak in your shifter shaft seal on the left side.
Lol.....yes, yes annnnd yes! Did you already have your motor apart? That video is exactly what I'm talking about, just imagine that the shaft is pushed by the other side & that 4 toothed cog disengages from the other one. I've been super busy last 2 days so haven't been able to take any measurements but I'm willing to bet based on the scratches on the LH side case cover, that the gap between that boss and the shifter shaft is too much. If it is I'll just tap the boss & put a set screw in there. That way I can adjust from 0 (the height of the boss) to whatever I discern the gap to be after taking measurements.
Yes, because I damaged the crankshaft when I reinstalled the right cover without having realigned the crankshaft with the oil pump shaft. So, I sent the crankshaft to a company which welded the missing tab (the other one was not broken). Incidentally, don't make the same mistake when you reinstall that cover! I like the idea, but I see a problem: the shaft rotates and so, after hundreds of shiftings, it can rotate the screw, because of the (little) friction. I would try, using a pair of pliers, to install the set screw reversed, with the conical end touching the shaft, and I would put something behind it as a spacer, to prevent it from being tightened and become flush with the boss. The contact area would be really small and the point of the cone would probably create a little indentation which would be like a hub. The spacer could be a "slice" of allen wrench: you cut a slice about 1 mm longer than what you need, then you measure it with the caliper and grind off the excessive material. Like this:
That's a good idea, but alas, I measured and the gap is insignificant. Nowhere near enough to cause the cogs from missing each other. I took it for a short ride around the neighborhood. All was well if I methodically shifted, pulling in the clutch each time & purposefully selecting each gear. As soon as I started riding normally (clutch less up shifts, accelerating hard) it completely misses 3rd gear. I suspect the forks are bent or there's a burr in the drum. Looks like I'll be splitting the cases. I just don't get how it could bend so easily. I do ride agressively, and routinely bang down from 6th to 2nd when I feel like backing it in. Could stomping on the shifter like that cause them to bend? I've always done that even at the track with other bikes, basically I'd know what gear I'd want to be in for the entrance to a corner, bang down to that gear with the clutch disengaged, set my entry speed with the brakes while feathering the clutch.....multiple sportbikes & my WR supermoto, never an issue. I will say that the SMS trans is a little more "clunky" in comparison but I never thought it'd do any damage. Next I'm going to inspect the selector drum prior to splitting the cases (which I'm trying to avoid). I've already gone through about 3 gallons of oil taking this damn clutch cover off so much....I'm sure if I drained it into a clean container I could re-use it but honestly I don't want to clean my drain pan....and getting it back into the bike could prove messy. I appreciate all the help & suggestions on this.....I know I'll inevitably have to split the cases which isn't really such a big deal, I'd just rather avoid it.....if I do go that route though me being me I'll have to go all out & just build the motor up.....anyone know if Athena makes a big bore kit for it? Lol.
So, is the shifter interfering with anything on the up or down shift? The Hyde plate interfered with the down shift if I wasn't very intentional, and I had to cut a little notch in it for clearance.
Nope, no interference at all. It's funny you mention that. While I had the bike up on a S/A stand I put it through the gears & watched everything. As 3rd is selected it misses the gear and goes to false neutral, and then with no other input it falls into 3rd......I can reproduce that over and over. That's what makes me think the drum has an issue, like there's a burr or something that the fork is hanging up on, interfering with the rotation.
Hate to say it but it's probably more likely a bent or worn fork. The drum should move the fork enough to positively engage the gear at full shift stroke.
Well, I've ridden my 610 on tracks, utilizing the engine brake as you desribed, for about 1.5k miles and, for other 8.5k, I rode it on the streets and many times I did something similar: I don't have any issue with shiftigs. Other people told me that they do the same and they haven't had any issue either. Maybe, if you push too hard on the lever in order to shift quickly, damages will occur, but it's just a theory. I have a clean container with a lid into which I pour the oil, that I keep there while I service the engine and pour it back into the 610 when I've finished. I utilize a sieve as a filter to remove possible dirt. A very cheap solution could be the following. When I clean the chain, I put it into a very cheap disposable aluminium baking pan: Since I want to reuse the kerosene, after the cleaning I pour it into its bottle: it's easy because I reshaped that corner like you can see. You could do the same with your oil.
I may ride in tonight to work.....I'm on the 1600-0000 shift. It gets a little nippy at night though. I took it for another spin for a few laps of the neighborhood I so wish it was like it was before they built all theses new houses, I legit had my own personal racetrack for a couple years, the contractor who laid out the neighborhood ended up going to jail or something after building mine & 3-4 other houses in the beginning of the neighborhood. The rest of it was @5miles of twisty tarmac, a few chicanes, cul-de-sacs, & leveled lots on either side......it was awesome, no people, no driveways, had on and off-road sections me & my neighbor would rip around on. He sold his CRF450 after the neighborhood was finished and got a CBR900RR...... Anywho.....after changing the oil (again) it seems to be shifting slightly better. There was absolutely NOTHING in the oil this change. I put the drained oil in my riding mower......that pan idea is awesome. Another benefit is the pan is bright, so you can clearly see the condition of the oil as/after you drain it. If there's any issue after tonight I'm just going to pull the motor & finish the season on my WR. The project bike is nearing completion so I'll have the lift free soon. Just a thought on the tear down: I have a powdercoating setup & was considering on coating the sidecases black, the only issue is the sight glass & kickstart plug on the right side cannot go in the oven. I'm sure the plug has a replacement, but what about the sight glass? Think that can be removed/replaced?
So I finally got this little gremlin whipped. Turns out that it was the selector cam the Theo pointed out. It had some manufacturing burrs on the edge of the detent area. Those burrs galled the tab located behind the detent wheel, that secures the shift drum bearing. (Picture below) The galling and the burrs created an area where the detent wheel would get hung up preventing the shift drum from rotating smoothly. I ground the burrs off, cleaned up & polished the cam face where the detent wheel rides & cleaned up the galling on the bearing tab. Re-filled with the castrol oil RDTCU mentioned & took it for a spin, all is well!
Welp.....that didn't last long....rode 1/2 way into work with only 4,5,6 gear.....time to split the cases
Eh, got home, drained the oil.....no chunks, extra dust on the magnetic plug, pulled both screens......nothing. Just by moving the rear tire back and forth I was able to cycle it down to 1st and back up to 4th, but now it won't go to 5-6....fuck it. I'm just going to button it back up, finish the project on the lift and then put it up there, yank the motor and disassemble. Something's amiss.....I wonder if I'll find more surplus husky fasteners in the trans......(sarcasm)
Finally got around to getting the motor out. Got the head/cyl assy removed. Since I haven't logged too many miles on it there's absolutely no visible wear (which is a good thing) the cyl wall is perfect, piston is perfect, no galling or scoring on the cams/rockers. Waiting for the flywheel pulled/case splitting tools. While I have this apart I couldn't help but wonder what's available as far as performance upgrades (big bore/different cam grinds/etc) and unsurprisingly, throughout my albeit brief online search, I've found nothing. Any suggestions? I've also found that the pickings are slim as far as available aftermarket exhausts.....basically FMF is it.
I bought another standard can from ebay and gutted and cut it to 3/4 length. It has made a brilliant and reasonably priced straight through can. I think the standard can is a quality item and when modified gives really good results. Mine only weighs 2.3kg with new packing and makes about the same noise level as the standard howitzer. I dont think theres much scope left for tuning the 630 other than mapping and exhaust. Hasnt the factory already brought the 610 motor to its mechanical limit with the 630? Good luck sorting your motor out, hope it goes well.
