Power Commander III

Yeah, can't wait to hear what the "lord of jetting" can do with it.

Well, as many of you know, I have my bike over at JDJetting to have a custom PC EFI map created to correct the dying that is going on with my 2008 TE 450. James has a really nice set-up at his home and even has a nice loop on his property to try things out. Anyway, to the findings:

Before messing around with any fuel mixture parameters, James wanted to get a graph/picture of what the Dyno told him. Initially, the curve looked very normal (uneventful) and the horse power runs up to 47...like a normal bike would. Here's where everything goes weird. After about 8 minutes as the bike warms up, the HP starts to sign-off and dwindle to about 37. Needless-to-say, James is confused and has never seen anything like this except maybe a Yamaha and the infamous grey wire.

Well, to make sure it's not the Power Commander, he unhooks it re-setting it back to the normal Power-up kit mode that I usually ride it as. The only difference in the outcome is the fuel mixture, but the bike does the same sign-off to 37'ish HP. Not satisfied, James puts the O2 sensor in to cross reference and notices that the bike is obviously leaner and runs a lot hotter, but does the same sign-off. He has no clue what it could be and said that the average person would never even notice this in the woods because the torque down low is great and everything to about 60 mph is normal before the decline in power, which is still enough to get the bike to almost 90 mph. Where you would see a difference is if you were in a drag race with the exact same bike and it started to walk away from you. That being said, it still has more power than a 250.

Anyone have any ideas?

"The first string of runs (3-9) were consistent and uneventful. The second set of runs to check the results (runs 10-16) with the motor more warm showed reduced power on the top-end." James




"There is not sign of anything being wrong with the bike in terms of how it idles, runs, pulls forward, or sounds. I don’t know why the power curves aren’t like the first string of runs." James




"The 3 red are with PC3 and the blue is with the stock ignition box. All the runs make about the same power up to 60mph. Notice that the air/fuel is the different with the blue (stock map), but the power is nearly unchanged in runs 16, 18, and 29. The best power was on run 9." James




In all cases, there was an eventual 10 HP loss at about 8 minutes of Dyno time! This has nothing to do with the PC as confirmed in Power-up trim and O2/lambda sensor in...all had the same 10 HP loss.

Jeff Tasky is going to call James to troubleshoot. After that, James will work his magic and start to make his adjustments.

The must be in your cache from yesterday...

I get a bandwidth exceeded on all the pictures.

Someone needs to step up and get a Smugmug account. The owner is a rider and runs ADVrider on the Smugmug dime. Not a bad company to support, plus the service rocks.

Later,

I thought what Keith had to say below might have some validity!

Also, I think the way my Rekluse is either set-up or worn might have something to do with it.

James' Dyno set-up has two huge exhaust fans built into the rear of the room on either side that suck air up and out the rear, which causes a 20 mph rush of cool air to channel towards the front of the bike through two frontal ports. Maybe if I brought in a supplimental exhaust type fan and aimed it right at the bike...took off the radiator guards and put the radiator louvers back on...flushed out my radiator fluid and refresh with Evans (?)...re-tooled my Rekluse for quicker/harder engagement with less slip...all to keep the bike running as cool as possible, the bike might show a different HP outcome!?!?

Yeah, the clutch thing is a good idea, too. I've questioned mine a few times with just normal riding and the dyno has a lot more load.

Just to make sure I have the PC III hooked up correctly, I was supposed to splice into the orange wire correct? There were 2 orange wires, but one of them was all orange and the other one was half orange and half black so I spliced into the all orange one. What exactly is that splice for and what is the all orange wire for?

Thanks,

David

I'd have to go look and see, but I was thinking it was the Yel / blk wire. It's the one that's very top right side. Like wire #1.

How's the JD dyno tune going?

The Orange wire splice connects the TPS signal (0-5vdc)to the PC.

I have a power commander III usb on my Yamaha R1 2002, but i dont really need it.

Is it possible to modify the wiring harness to make it work on my TE510 2008?

Thanks