You probably don't want my map. My set up is now a bit restricted in the exhaust. That plus the humidity and temp in Bundy is prob a bit high for Cal. I only tour on the Strada and don't speed so PCV was for reliability and smooth running not power and that's what we went for in the fuelling. Not running optimium fuel/air but the smoothest running lean mix we could get
Thanks for the feedback. I also wonder how much regional fuel blends make a difference? I know the "gasoline" we have here in California is junk, it's dictated by the eco-nazi tree huggers and vehicles barely run on the stuff. I typically loose about 10% mpg compared to running on fuel from other states so you can see how much less energy it has in it. I would be interested to see the map #s around idle just to compare. Can you take a screen shot of it?
You aren't running on BP98 ( different number in US because you use a different octane standard), but the top BP bowser fuel. It is unsuitable for non high activation engines. ie ie is designed for turbo and supercharged motors. It runs crap in normally aspirated motors, sometimes noticeably. Higher octane rating DOES NOT GIVE YOU MORE POWER, it just stops the fuel detonating at higher compressions.
Just got my PCV from usa, awaiting AT. Over on adv someone stated that a dyno run before getting connected with pcv was a good idea.Not sure why unless Moss baseline is best and stock readings should be saved. Is the stock map on PC site standard for latest Moss? cant see how it would matter much with good pcv map. A thread for maps only would be a good idea as would a husqvarna terra branded babies dummy/ soother to use as I expose my ignorance. I will get this if it kills me!! Love/hate relationship with being at the bottom of a learning curve with this bike . BTW the people on this thread are generally awesome with their efforts with support. Salute!
Installed PCV + autotune and can only say that it was a really positive experience. Better idle, good low speed and mid range and maybe a little better at high rpm. Feels more torque at lower revs. Above all, much better throttle response. My Terra is completely stock except iridium spark plugs. Autotune want to increase the fuel in 40% throttle around 2500-2750 rpm to high values, do not know why and do not know if I should accept such high values. It was cold when I ran so might prejudice. But after three autotune runs stabilized values around 65% in those cells. Have not found any leaks on the intake or exhaust. AFR is set to 13.2 in those cells. Now I'm experimenting with acc pump settings in the Power Commander. Someone with experience or tips on settings? If you want to power autotune or anything else when the ignition is on you can join a wire to MOSS Tool socket wire. If I remember correctly, it is the green / white cord.
Your bike is running that increase with autotune on as it pulls from both memory banks, stock and the trim table as you ride. It will always be trimming when turned on. You can change the setting for autotune so it can only trim 10% or 20% for example. I set mine at 10% but needed a couple of rides to see it had trimmed as much as it was going to. I accepted both trims and finalized the map and then turned off autotune. I wanted to make a very high elevation map as well so turned it back on once at elevation and did the same procedure. Once done turned off autotune and enabled the map switch and loaded both maps. (Switch allows use of autotune on/off exclusively or use of two maps but no autotune at the same time as both need the 2 memory banks).
A couple comments: --Your AFR targets are good but quite rich for throttle angles below 40%. I would use 13.5 - 13.8 to 1. --Your AFR targets at high RPM/TPS look okay, maybe a little lean (notice that the Autotune is removing fuel) --As you suspect, the 40-68% fuel additions are not right. These are the kinds of mistakes that Autotune makes. You should manually reduce them in line with their neighboring cells. I would make: 42, 68, 62, 28, 24 to be 4, 10, 11, 11, 7
Just for comparison, my results after 2nd Autotune run. AFR all set to 13 as a start point, no pod mod, standard exhaust with baffle plates drilled out. Running pretty smooth now. Needs a longer run and maybe some finer AFR adjustments.
Hunter, you need to zero your map in the 0% throttle column. Your accel pump commands will be used here. Try these settings: Trigger 2% Duration 30rpm Fuel 5-10% The fuel is added every time the throttle is twisted from 0-2%, but not when already opened and increased. Test the settings I have listed above, start low and go up. Duration may be too high/low and needs to be adjusted, possibly between 20 or 35, (30 is about 1 second and is where I would start). The amount of fuel will vary depending on your modifications like exhaust, air mods and porting. Other trigger points worth experimenting with may be at the beginning of the lower power band or over a certain amount of throttle not normally used. Ignition curves to accelerator pump settings could also be experimented with. Add an additional map and try experimenting with your afr's set to 12.8, while a fractional more amount of fuel may be consumed, you may find overall better performance from your engine, including temperatures. I have attached an image to show the settings, however, do not use the settings in the image. Additional reference: http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/zipty-husqvarna-factory-powercommander-5-race-maps.33459/
As with all Autotune results, you should manually verify any fuel additions. Your initial target of 13:1 everywhere is richer than you need. You're asking for about 11% more fuel. If you want simple, you could start with a target of 13.5:1 for 2% throttle to 40%. Then for 60% use 13.2 For 80% and 100% use 12.9 Then, don't accept any fuel addition beyond 15% and to start, don't accept any negatives. Also make sure that the fueling additions or subtractions don't deviate much for adjacent cells. Autotune really means it automatically finds a value for a given cell but it doesn't mean it automatically finds the right value. Proceed skeptically.
However, the leaner the low RPMs, the worse the idle seems to be. I find that the idle and initial response is better when I go reacher, 12.8 to 13. I am I doing something wrong?
Very good question. Although most advise putting zeros in the 0% column so that the bike doesn't Autotune at idle, you are correct. Many bikes idle much better with a richer mixture than stock. Every bike is different. For example my bike picks up 150 rpm when I drop the closed loop mixture to 13.8 from 14.7. And it picks up a bit more if I go lower, say to 13.2. A good approach is to enable Autotune. when the bike is warm and in the stand. Then experiment with afr to find best idle. Then add that to the PC fuel table. Then disable Autotune. Even easier, use a lambda-shifting device like LC-2 or AFXIED and find the setting where it idles best.
DBhusky, Did you solve the fast idle/stall problem? Not something silly like a cable fouling the throttle mech?
Make sure the maps you download are based upon the same stock map in your ECU. They could be based upon Map 3 for example and so all trims/PCV maps would be offset by the differences between your stock and Map 3 for example. Dynojet may have what you need if they list your bike model for a PCV kit. On that page their should be a download map feature and a description of the map. I believe most of their kits and maps start with a stock map and add more with a list of changes regarding pipes, etc... See bottom of page... http://www.powercommander.com/power...model-n=TR650&year=2013&mk=26&mdl=604&yr=2013
After much playing with different settings I've pretty much stabilized on this setup. Not that it's perfect, but it feels quite good over a broad range of operation. I have the Pod Mod, Screaming Demon twin pipes with "quiet" baffles (not very), and the airbox door removed. I would like to pick up the mpg a bit more. I've tried leaner settings at cruise but it starts to feel flat. I average about 48 - 50 mpg right now. The speed I ride at on the freeway makes a noticeable difference in mpg. I seem to hit the reserve light at 140 miles like clockwork. I use a accelerator pump setting of 20% trigger, 15 revs, and 20% fuel adjustment. This made a big difference up in the mid range in terms of response and really added that "brap factor" that big thumpers should have. Here's my AFR target table. I run the Autotune 100% of the time. I found it works great for idle mixture control but you have to leave the AFR setting steady up a few thousand rpm or it will become a bit unstable as you come to stops. With these settings it's very stable. The 16 values from 3k rpm up to 6k are to quell the popping on the overrun. Here's the fuel table. There are areas down around idle I manually edit back if I do an update because the updates foul up that region. I spent a fair amount time with low rpm range settings, especially starting as it's tricky to start when it's cold or near cold. I've found it's adding more fuel than needed which is why I have big negative numbers in the cranking rpm range. I've tried a lot of settings and this has produced the best results so far for starting. I believe the real problem is the idle control valve doesn't open up enough for good cold starting with the mods I have. When it was stock it wasn't much of an issue. To get better starting now you have to crack the throttle just the tiniest amount for about 1 or 2 revolutions to add a bit of air, then it will catch.
Dan, Very interesting AFR targets and resulting trims. I like that you've manually edited parts of the table, I think that's smart--idle and starting. A lot of riding (statistically speaking) is done between 2000 - 4000 RPM and between 5 - 15% throttle. Based on what charley has learned an afr of 13.5:1 is pretty good on the tr650. You are a few percent richer at 13.1:1. Keep an eye out for carbon accumulation--probably OK. A friend runs 12.8:1! I also noted in that area that a lot of fuel gets added at low RPMs (maybe too much) and at 4000-4500 fuel is being removed (maybe too much removed). You could consider tempering that.
I need to do a trim map update again to see how it looks. I played with those two areas, the lower rpm and the 4-4.5k rpm cruise range. I ended up with these settings based on how the bike felt and responded down lower, especially in trail riding conditions. It's a bit richer there so when you lug then engine down is has a smooth and strong response but not too quick. It will chug really well under load which requires a pretty rich mixture. In normal riding you pass through that range pretty quickly. The lean out in the cruise range is for mpg mostly but I think I might add a tad more fuel back in just below 4,500 rpm, right around the 15-20% throttle & 4,000 - 4,250 rpm, moving the AFR from 14.1-13.9 to 13.7-13.5 or so. I think I could gain mpg at the expense of response and feel if I wanted to but when I tried leaner settings I really didn't care for the character of the bike. I have been through at least 10-12 versions of this map focusing and hunting for settings in various target areas to get the results I wanted. There are some areas that really don't matter too much and I've just run out the numbers there, rpm/throttle settings where you really never ride.
I moved this here so that we don't lose the context to the work you're doing with the PCV. Let us know what the Dynojet guys tell you about start-up fueling, maybe we can figure this out.
I called Dynojet today. There is a startup fuel option under "tools/configure/configure/feature/startup fuel". He suggested setting the number of engine revs (the time out function) to 25 and -10% fuel as a starting point. I've worked with this feature in the past. The thing about this feature is that it affects both cold and hot startup. But it might be worth going back and trying it again armed with the new info. I think I might limit revolutions to say 10 or less this time and try something like -50%, it's trial and error to balance cold/hot start requirements. I asked about how the PC acts during cranking. If the start up fuel feature is not enabled then the PC does nothing to the fuel mapping until the engine is actually running. It relies on the original ECU mapping for startup mapping, cold or hot. If the cold start feature is enabled then it will come into play immediately upon cranking the engine and use the settings in the cold start option until it times out by engine revolutions. The other option is if you connect a temp sender to the PC (using the analog data port) and correctly calibrate the voltage vs temp for the sender (0-5v), then create a cold start table varying fuel against engine temp you can have a cold start only map which does not affect hot start. I think this is the ultimate solution and may very well be worth the effort. Really the only effort is calibrating the stock temp sender and tapping the wire to connect to the PC. I have figured out which wire it is but need to find a clean place to tap into it. I don't think there is a way to time out the map with engine revs or time so you'd need to have a very steep temp ramp in the map. Here's some basic info on the available connections to a PC5.
Have this problem on the new 501s. I push the fuel on the maps into the negative at zero and compensate with the accel pump at 2%.
