All 2st Power #'s from a dyno run?

HRC 630

I guess what I am asking is EEl as crisp or better than the CEL from idle to the midrange . On the graph it looks softer then comes on in the midrange. Iam no expert just the way it looked to me if I am seeing the lines right, kind of hard to see what line is what. Just looking for your .02

I agree with the first part about feeling but I have found my 08 125 at least as quick as an 08 TE apart from top end 50 + MPH where the 250 pulls away
A 144 would be line ball id reckon. I also think from a standing start id win . I will line one up this weekend

I must have an odd 250F, cause I've surprised a lot of folks racing with it, or the 08 TE's are slower????

For me, the CEL feel better on low. This is the best needle for me right now. Pull good everywhere. In the next week, i will be trying some other needle and post the result. Also, i want to try a JD red to see the difference. I return on the dyno in 2 weeks.

I have a 09 144 and a 2010 tc250, no way the 144 can hold a tc250. It's not close in my opinion. The TE can't be that far off.

I wouldnt even waste the dyno time with the JD red , my bike didnt like it after the head mod and carb divider plate . I messsured it and it looks close to a CEQ

Thanks for the info.
I dont have to pay for dyno testing so its not a problem to pass some time on it Next, i will try the EEL and EEM needles + the JD Red if i can find one.

For now, i have a big dilema... the owner of the dyno shop (a old 70 years old 2 strokes guru) that have pass is life in snowmobile tuning want to built my engine. (balance the crank, port the cylinder, modify the squish, add a little compression etc...) He tell if i dont like my engine after, he would buy a new cylinder for me. He is sure this motor can make easily more than 60 whp without afecting the reliability or the drivability. He also think i can have even more torque on low.

A few years ago he have built my Banshee engine to over 70 whp on stock bore and the engine was bulletproof...
The problem is my bike is new...and i really like it right now...

It is a slippery slope

A 60hp 2t in the woods will not be a good setup IMO.

If you lived in Arizona/Nevada maybe.

This is also what i think. Right now, i have always the power i need (sometime too much power)... It would be funny sometime to have that kind of power for free (he dont charge me) but i dont think its a good idea since my bike is right now praticly perfect and i dont want to take a chance to loose someting i really like.

Dont touch it - does he like to do free work for strangers from O/S??

After some more testing and dyno tuning, the best result i have is finally with the EEL needle on the 3rd or 4th clip (i need to re-check to make sure). We have work on the head (shave a little and ajust the squish that is way off from the factory on my bike...) The old man on the dyno shop dont beleive it and said that is one of the most inneficient setup he have seen on a stock head. He have make a big smile and tell me that after reajusting the head my bike will never be the same. (this make me a little scary since my bike feel almost perfect for me ) The new result and power curve was very impressive. 51.9 whp and 33.8 lb of torque and the bike come on sooner
I will post the sheet when i can.

The bike feel really good and the powerband was very smooth and progressive but pull with an incredible autority. The front wheel goes up in 5th with only opening the throttle.

My jetting with this set-up is:
WR300 2010
Mod: Shaved head, squish ajusted.
Keihin PWK 38
180 main jet
42 pilot jet
Needle EEL in 3-4 clip (i need to check)
#7 slide.
Air screw 1 1/2 turn

I agree there is alot of room for improvement.
I had to remove too much from the sealing surface to get my desired squishband angle.
I wound up reducing the width to reduce compression.
It would have been easier to go to a domed piston, the squish angle on the head is closer to a domed piston.

But it did wake up the sleeping giant

hrc 630
Thats a great improvement with the head mods . What are they looking for with the squish ? Can you clarify what it is ? What is the optimum ?

I dont know. I will talk with the owner of the shop that have done my head. Its a lot of work (we have pass at least 5 hours on my engine, including the head, timing, check the power valve operation and carb). I think the best way is to put a GasGas EC300 piston in it. Thats supposed to be a perfect fit.

I believe you can measure the squish my squishing some solder on top of the piston as described on another thread. I guess thats the only way to find out but it would be easier if you could just use a thinner gasket - but then you risk not really knowing what the gap is.
I wonder if just trying a thinner head gasket and reducing squish by .2 or .3mm would be risky or not ?

The easyer way to increase the compression an to correct the squish is supposed to be a GasGas piston.


Anyone know what is the stock compression in PSI ????
Tomorrow i will take mine to see the difference.

stock mine was 135, after squish/head mod it is 155