1. 2 Stroke Husqvarna Motorcycles Made In Italy - About 1989 to 2014
    WR = 2st Enduro & CR = 2st Cross

250-500cc "proper clutch cable"

Discussion in '2 Stroke' started by budpat105, Jan 10, 2014.

  1. David_D. Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Idaho, USA
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2008 WR250
    Other Motorcycles:
    Hondas: XR200, XR100, CRF100
    I laid the original cable next to the new cable and the new cable is about 1/4" shorter. I have about 1/4" of adjustment at the adjuster, but would need to screw it in all the way to make it work. I would assume this will work as the new cable will probably stretch some over time allowing for some adjustment.

    The end that goes in to the provision on the engine case could be filed down so that's not really a big issue as long as the cable length stretches some.
    IMG_1327.JPG IMG_1328.JPG IMG_1329.JPG
  2. rancher1 Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    WA
    The cable will stretch so the little shorter is better and now you can adjust out through the life of the cable.
    ohmygewd likes this.
  3. Big Timmy Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    (South Eastern) AZ.
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    2015 FE 501 with lots of goodies.
    Other Motorcycles:
    BMW G450X, 15'FE501, 23 KTM 1290 SAR
    I would relieve the diameter of the larger than stock ring on the cable housings end fitting to allow it to properly seat into the cables housing mount lug in the cases. Doing that shouldn't be a big deal but you don't want it to start gouging into the case or start putting a side load on it either.
    ohmygewd likes this.
  4. JesPres Husqvarna

    Location:
    Everett
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1994 wxc360
    Other Motorcycles:
    1983 Yamaha DT100
    I have a 94 WXC360 and got a Motion Pro Terminator 10-0017 (with the metal elbow) and its about 1.5 " too long. :mad: The lever APPEARS to be stock. Maybe I should try a 10-0154 as other suggested? Also just installed new clutch fiber plates with the cable. Any info/experience or suggestions would be appreciated
  5. taps Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    TX
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '94 WXC360
    Other Motorcycles:
    '15 RMZ450, '08 RM250, & '74 MX360

    I had to add a spacer inline when I used the 10-0017 on my '94 360 with the stock perch. Upon swapping to a MSR lever/perch, I ended up still needing the spacer. I'm curious to hear if a different cable fits better.
    JesPres likes this.
  6. 2premo Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Northern NV
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    98 WR360, 1987 WR430, 1988 XC430
    Other Motorcycles:
    Sherco 300, 2002 KTM 380EXC
    adjust the clutch internally to get it close then finish with the adjuster on the lever to get it perfect
    the angle on the inside won't change enough to make a difference
    did this on my 360 and it works just fine
    lankydoug and ohmygewd like this.
  7. JesPres Husqvarna

    Location:
    Everett
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    1994 wxc360
    Other Motorcycles:
    1983 Yamaha DT100
    New STOCK clutch plates are installed. I have no experience or information about "adjusting the clutch internally" could you please elaborate? I fabricated an "inline spacer" to take up slop right at the perch cable entry point (bout 1" of cable play between mounting points) and rode it all day on the trails no prob...I just know it wont last long with the slop/play in the perch to cable joint. Was the inline spacer you used a Pro Motion Product made specificcaly for this purpose or did you custom make one as well? Thanks for any info!
  8. Flyin Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Northern NJ
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 300
    Just had my clutch cable snap on my last ride. Good thing this 300 can pull from an idle!
    Tried to get this Terminator cable and its out of stock till next month!
    I'm going to wind up paying more for the stock replacement...this sucks
    BTW last ride was real tight slow single track and i was running a 14t countersprocket, i thought i was destroying the clutch because i had to keep adjusting it as we were going, turns out it was the cable letting go.
    So if your riding and the adjustment keeps going out start heading back before it goes :(
  9. 2premo Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    Northern NV
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    98 WR360, 1987 WR430, 1988 XC430
    Other Motorcycles:
    Sherco 300, 2002 KTM 380EXC

    ask a dealer near you if they carry the Terminator, mine does
  10. Flyin Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Northern NJ
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 300
    Ordered the Moose replacement, was half the price of OE.
    Hopefully it's no worse than stock
  11. lankydoug Husqvarna
    Pro Class

    Location:
    MO
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR
    Other Motorcycles:
    TM 300en
    My stock clutch cable worked fine and when I put the motion pro cable on I couldn't tell the difference. Adjusting the travel at the center of the clutch basket so the the lever on the engine case was 90 degrees as the clutch plates disengaged made a big difference and cost nothing. I recommend you make the adjustment no matter what cable you are using.
    justintendo, gaz and huskybear like this.
  12. Flyin Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Northern NJ
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR 300
    Will do!
  13. taps Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    TX
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    '94 WXC360
    Other Motorcycles:
    '15 RMZ450, '08 RM250, & '74 MX360
    Sorry I'm late responding. I made the the spacer myself. It is a light press fit into the adjuster barrel on the MSR perch, and I've put about 200 trail miles on this year without problem. Before making the spacer, I adjusted as much as possible internally, but it just wasn't going to get there that way. FWIW, stock cable did not need the spacer.
  14. arp Husqvarna
    AA Class

    Location:
    Ontario, Canada
    Husqvarna Motorcycle:
    WR250 Enduro
    I made this aluminum extension cap a few years ago for my WR250 clutch. Fits over top of the original steel pivot lever.
    It extends the pulling point about .50" I think. Made a big difference on the pulling effort required. One finger clutching is way easier with this cap.
    There is one screw and nut thru the original location for the clutch cable and I added another further back and tapped the original lever.
    It seems to have made my cable last longer, but maybe I'm just dreaming.

    WR250 brake extension.jpg