If the threads hold up, it sounds like a good idea. That clutch basket material is awfully soft, though. I gouged mine a little just trying to bend my lock washer tab and hold the basket while I torque it down.
Done over 500km since doing the clutch and running smooth and quiet. My only advice if i was to do again would be to use M8 metric screws instead of the 5/16 screws i used just to get an extra thread or two bite into the basket and obviously use some red loctite as i did also.
The FBF and Hinson baskets I installed onto OEM ring gears all used screws. You flare the ends of the screws after you install them with loctite. Never had one come loose. My 610's clutch is making some noise. I need to check it.
I cant find any aftermarket clutch for the 610, my 08 TE 610 clutch is starting to slip and i want to go aftermarket. I noticed it was starting to slip just before i did the inner bush, spring cups and RH side key but it still slips a little when i get up it going through the gears. I was hopeing the fact that the spring cups and inner bush were shagged was the reason for it slipping but it still happens. Anybody know of an aftermarket clutch for the 610?, or at least just a clutch kit?, idealy a kit with new steel plates and friction plates and heavy duty springs is what im after.
Just got my clutch basket back together using the idea from Dirtbike and the M8 1.25 pitch screws. I'm still waiting for a new clutch bushing which should be in this week. See photos... First I took a center punch and punched the rivets. Then with a spot facer bit I drilled out the center of the rivet and scraped the rivet head flush. Then with another punch and hammer knocked rivets out. The old spring cups are pretty worn not broken but a couple are close as they were thin enough to cut you fingers. The steel spring retainer plate was drilled out to 5/16 while the outer basket was drilled to 17/64 to prep to be tapped to M8 1.25 pitch and the outer basket was tapped to M8. The new cups were installed by compressing them in a vice then releasing them half way in then tapping them in to center position. The screws were installed using red locktite and punching the other side once installed. Everything fits and clears as soon as I get the new clutch bearing it will be back on the road for a test drive. I will keep everyone posted to the outcome of the test drive.
How many miles on the bike? Interesting, you combined a little of both methods. Can you post a photo of the bolts after you punched them? If you have to redo the cup springs again any issues expected to get the bolts out without damaging the threads? _
The bike has about 10,500 mostly easy miles I purchased the bike with 6,500 miles on it. The previous owner was in his 70s so I'm pretty sure they were easy miles. The last photo shows the punch it is on the aluminum clutch basket into the screws. No I believe the screws will come out fine and if anything just clean the holes with the tap. I don't expect I will ever need to redo the spring cups but only time will tell.
Aah I see, I thought you meant punching the bolts and didn't understand how that would work with hardened bolts. Good clean job on removing your stock rivets also. Most others have shown photos of slightly disturbed baskets after drilling/punching out the rivets. _
There is enough clearance to use the button head screws? Having never had the thing apart I don't know what is in there, but the rivets are flush; didn't know if that was a requirement or not.
The button head screws are just barley taller that the captive spring plate and there is plenty clearance behind the basket for them. The length of the screws should just be level with the inside of the basket. There is a spacer between the inner and outer basket this spacing is crucial for the clutch push rod to work correctly so make sure the inner basket doesn't touch the screws and sits flush on the spacer.
I'm about to start this myself. I have all the parts, just need to get it done. Thanks for the photo's on the threaded option, theyre very clear and I can understand what was done. If I understand the photo's properly the threads are cut into aluminium, is that correct? If so, what are the chances of the forward/backward action on the bolts working the threads loose in the soft aluminium? Using threads instead of rivets looks like a nice elegant solution, that will be far less of a pain to implement, but I cant help wandering why Husky didnt do that in the first place?
Biggest reason - probably cost, secondly - concerns over screws potentially backing out, thirdly - Husky not knowing about the failure prone cup spring washers and figuring this is a job that won't be needed over the lifetime of most bikes. _
I agree I don't believe Husky ever believed this would be an issue. There are several threads into basket as the threaded area is about .5" thick with red locktite and dimpling the basket into the threads I think it will be OK. I also replaced the clutch bushing. I'm not sure it was worn enough to replace but there was some lateral play in the clutch basket so I changed it. It was only about 9 bucks. I'm also replacing the drive chain and rear sprocket and will have it completed tomorrow after work and out for a test ride Friday. I will let everyone know the outcome then.
Got home from work and finished everything including installing the new chain and sprocket. Took the bike for a short spin and everything is working well, now to put some miles on it! I really like this bike and I believe it is worth any effort you put into it.
Hello, good job, could answer if this bolts are ok? http://www.ebay.es/itm/M8-x-16-A2-S..._Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&hash=item2ea73642e5 Thanks
I believe that bolt is identical to the ones I used at least all of the dimensions are correct. These bolts only hold the thin steel plate that retains the 6 shock cushion springs and their cups. Just remember to cut them if they extend much above the inside basket surface.
Nice work guys. I don't see any reason the bolts wouldn't work either. It would seem the factory rivets design was for expediency, probably made up in large batches by someone with a machine to do it. Screws would require tapping, assemblying, and then worry about them backing out. Looks really good.
1. Not much clearance for nuts/exposed threads/positive locking/safety wire. 2. Threads in shear = BAD, though they don't see a ton in this application. If there were room for a properly safety-wired bolt, or some form of positive locking, I would be OK with it.
