Question about the "tubliss" tire system

I think it certain applications they are a good product.
But if you ride in fast rocky invironments as in the desert, baja Hi speed trails roads where rocks or hard edged holes are found.
Rim dinger conditions you crush the rim your flat and will have to put a tube in to get going again.
They are great if only have a nail or cactus hole just plug it, side wall cut or the nail getting into the rim tube your toast.
Flats have always been a problem.
Back in the day use-to do things like using 2 tubes( smaller size) side by side, or cut a tube so it would go over onother tube these were the first heavy duty tubes.
Then came the Bib Mouse they go flat or soft around 250 miles.
Have tried them all gotten flats on all of them also.
Kinda gave up on the HI-Tech stuff so now what works the best for me is STD Hd tube not killer Heavy Duty if I don't have a tube or patch kit just Jip-tie the tire to the rim and get to where I can fix it.
Hi-Speed rocky 20-30 psi, handles like the noon stage but no flats or dings.
Later George

I have run the Tubliss system for the last 4 years. I had over 10000 ds/offroad miles on the 07 510, 13000 miles on the 09 te450 and have over 3500 miles on the Beta.
I have never put a hole in the high pressure tube, however I did get a sidewall flat on a ds ride near Reno. Plug and go. I have had a slow leaks in the 1st generation Tubliss, run Slime and bomb the trail. I have the new generation Tubliss now and I run Slime in both tires on the Beta and have had zero problems with slow leaks. I have had the bikes up towards 90mph at times, but I am more concerned about letting a motor scatter than having my tire overheat .

Tire changes are EASY
1-let out tire air
2-let out the high pressure air
3-pop bead
4-pull off tire
5-mount new tire
6-air up high pressure tube
7-Slime
8-air up tire.
9-ROOST
Its really that simple

I have close to 20,000 miles on my Tubliss systems on my bikes with only two tire punctures. Plug and go! Never a high pressure tube puncture, although it can certainly happen. I've also seen one of the high pressure tubes fail due to a manufacturing problem. Things can happen. I carry tubes as a back up but have never needed them for me, only for riders with me when they had flats. No product is perfect, but I sure like my Tubliss. I do run enough pressure to protect the rims when on rocky trails, etc.

What do you consider a "safe" pressure for rocky conditions?

I ran Tubliss here in MO and AR where we have rock trails not dirt - and never had any significant issues with 8 up front and 5 on a rear trials. I ran those pressures many, many times in UT and CO without issue too. I am a bit of a finess rider, however, and try not to push the bike hard into ledges. I tend to move around on the bike allot to minimize blows from ledges.

I am not "anti" Tubliss - I think they are a very good product. It just added complexity I didn't need. It always felt like I was tinkering to keep them properly functioning. Now I just run heavy tubes and ride happy.

That would depend on your tire, sidewall strength to be exact. You also have to consider that the tire flexes different with a Tubliss as its clamped to the rim hard over 360 deg, the bead doesn't move around like it can with a tube. So, the same pressure with Tubliss vs. a tube is more stable. Much better running flat if needed than a tube. They are all I run now both racing and riding. In two years, one sharp rock cut easily plugged, that would have cut a tube as well. Two full racing seasons no failures. I can feel the difference especially up front, tubes feel ugly to me now. You can use previously tube mounted tires if you know what to look for, as rimlocks are different. If the inside area of the bead is clean up to around 8mm from the edge, you will be fine. Also, if the tire was not manhandled with poor skills (bent, stressed, distorted bead wires). From what I've seen Husky rimlocks leave deep grooves so forget it with those. A dinged rim is not that big of a deal if its been prepped right before mounting and the liner seal can slide over to mate with the tire surface completely. JMO, to each is own, but I have no plans for tubes in the future.

I ran Tubliss offroad for a year, went back to extra heavy duty tubes.

About 4 years of the 4mm thick tubes (1 front, 2 rear between 2 bikes) only one flat (tore a valve stem on the rear). 15 minutes on the Tubliss and I have a flat front tire, good thing is I could run the last 2 hours of the race on that flat front tire without rim damage. Over the course of that year, I had more cuts and punctures in tires than I ever have had. Don't run Dunlop MX51s with it. I religiously checked pressures, but tires kept going flat with mysterious cuts. I had to pull them off and put new tires on. I saved all those take offs and used them the following year when I went back to tubes.

They were great with the less unsprung weight though. Suspension felt amazing, acceleration, turning, yeah, all good. Reliability was a huge let down though. And with the super thick tubes, I can run the 8-10 psi and not worry about them pinching. So, it didn't make sense for me. I would not want them in a dual sport, though dual sport tires would be better suited to them with their harder carcass.

I have been running tubliss for roughly +4 years. The original ones had some issues and I think there were a lot of people that got a bad taste from them.

The tubliss system is not perfect, but for me it's the best option between UHD and mouse bib. Actually, for me it's either tubliss or a bib. After first year I ran the original tubliss design I tried to go back to UHD tubes. However, I had become accustom to pounding through rocks without fear using tubliss and would pinch/flat an UHD tube almost every ride. For racing I absolutely won't use a tube... with tubliss I can finish a race without much issue on a cut tire but it ruins your race when you have a flat tube. The rim protection with tubliss is also a benefit for me.

I have done +4500 miles in Baja using tubliss on both mine and my wife's bikes. We have had good success with the only complaint is you need to balance wheel due to the heavier rimrock. No issues running them on pavement, stretch between San Felipe and Gonzaga Bay is +80 miles of pavement that we ride at 70-80mph... tires get real hot but no issues.

Again they are not perfect. I think a lot of people assumed they would never have a flat again using tubliss and throw their hands in the air the first time they slice a tire or get a puncture. The key to me is finishing a race/ride and I have had much more success using tubliss than an UHD tube. You have to weight the pros and cons and make the decision that works best for you.

I just finished Canada to Mexico and return running Tubliss. Had a rear tire fail because knobs were tearing off and had it replaced in Twin a Falls ID. The mechanic changed the tire on his machine and felt with the Tubliss in the process. He was well versed doing it that way and said the Tubliss was still just fine. This after several years and three multi-week rides. There was a batch of old tubes out there and I did get one once but Jeff at Nutech replaced it for me right away. Really like the system.

I have had good success with tubliss for several years. And changing tires really is simplified a lot. I just sold a bike I had run the Tubliss system in, and I pulled them out to use on my next bike. Sadly, I pinched the Tubliss tube when removing the front from the rim. I ordered a replacement Tubliss tube from Nutech for a very reasonable $10, and Jeff sent me TWO!

I have suffered a couple punctures over the years, but they are easy to fix trailside, and you don't even have to lay the bike on its side. I have done some research on mousse inserts, but am put off by the need for periodic lubing and special apparatus to install easily.

Ran mine yesterday at the rough and rocky national HS in PA, 7 PSI rear in an MT16, 8 PSI front in an M59. Was as good as it gets with a knobby.

My rears have been perfect even with 6psi in it on PA rock runs.

The fronts...not so perfect.

At Hancock last week I once again for the 3rd time had the Tubliss front rim lock wack a hole in the front tire. It seems the rim lock edges are sharp and anything under 10# puts a hole in the front tire.

I am going to try sanding down the rim lock to prevent this.

Anyone else experience this?

Does this rim lock come as part of the tubliss system?

Hmm, I got a flat a few weeks ago where the bead/sidewall was damaged right at the rim. I thought it was a really strange place to damage a tire. Maybe it was caused by the tubliss rimlock?

*edit* Just went and inspected the tire and it is damaged in a different location than where it was clamped by the rim lock.

I have seen wear on the inside of the tire from the rimlock but never experienced a flat from damage. Ususlly when I try to squeeze too much time out of a spent tire, and or a soft tire. I rode a Tubliss flat once for awhile including some road and that chewed up the insde from the rimlock a bit. I put a few small patches over the wear spots and remounted the tire in a different position. Held up fine for a few more rides.

Yes it has a built in square aluminum rim lock and the Tubliss liner also acts as a 360 degree rim lock.

Yeah, maybe I should but a patch inside the tire over the rimlock next time.

Three times this happened to me...in fact on every front tire I mounted on a front tubliss.

I plugged it and it hold air.

Can't believe I'm the only one.

Tires were MS-12 and the VRubber copy of the MS-12

I just checked the Tubliss site and on the front page it has a example of plugging a hole in a front tire.

Woundn'tcha know it has a hole right over the rim lick...right where I get 'em!